PEOPLE ALREADY TAKING DELIVERY IN GTA!!! (FRS)

[moniz]

Originally Posted by Hamza7

If you guys are the seeing is believing crowd, we can do a little experiment if I can get a 2 voluneers. One can have they car preped by the dealer the other by me. I will take photographic evidence of both cars on day 1 and a 2 month mark and we can all see what is what. Of course I will be doing the volunteers's car free of charge.

Thanks for the explanation. Honestly wasn't trying to be a ****, but enough people come on to many a forum and start fishing for business for themselves without any real sort of cred or accurately explain what exactly they're selling.

I know what you mean about the lacklustre job these dealers do to prep a car. So I'm guessing you know about rail dust then? Well then this is a heads up to anyone with or getting a Whiteout FR-S. Read on.

We took delivery of our White 2010 Mazda5 in late Nov 2010. Being that time of year, I had to wait until the spring to do proper clean and wax/polish. No big deal. Washed, waxed and polished it up, looked fantastic. Then I started noticing later on through out the year after a wash and dry, what looked like tiny, tiny rust spots in various parts of the paint, mostly the lower sides and the rear hatch. Rubbing over it and with a fingernail it was smooth like it was in the clearcoat. ???? Ok, so it's not the actual body of the car itself, but on the clearcoat?? Rust??

Turns out pretty much EVERY car that is shipped by rail, end up with these rust specs from rail dust, just that on white cars, they are painfully obvious when you get up close. The tiny shards or iron that the train wheels kick up like a fine spray embed themselves into the clearcoat. They don't appear until much later as water starts to penetrate the clearcoat and the oxidization process begins, giving these tiny orange rust specs. Waxing/polishing won't get them out since you're just sealing them into the clearcoat, you need to get rid of them first! Oh and forget about the getting the dealer or the car company to do it for you, it just ain't gonna happen or more importantly, you don't want them doing it if they take as much care with the the pre-delivery as Hamza7 claims. YIKES!

Now for the record, I have nothing to do with these guys, and only heard of them in my quest to remove these spots without paint/clearcoat damage, but by god does this stuff work!! Iron X Iron Remover gets rid of them! I won't go into how as you can google away and see for yourself how it works. I'm sure there other places that carry it, but the only place I seem to know that carries it consistently is eshine.ca. I just order it from them.

Hope this helps, especially the people with white cars who are probably going to lose their mind when they see these rust specs appear! Relax, there is a solution!

[Hamza7]

I know I am really pushing the limits because I took this thread into a different topic but I just have to show what Moniz is talking about



You see all those red spots, those were once rust spots that are on every car but especially visible on white cars. When Iron containments attach them selves to your car, they will rust on your paint degrading their level. A thorough decontamination will remove that. I can do this service for you or I can explain how you can do it your self but not in this thread, PM me or request me to make a thread.

Let's get back on topic people

Edit: This customer's car is a mere 2 months old at the time of the detail.

[Oilers99]

Ok Hamza im in Alberta and hereby formally request a thread with even a small guide for initial steps after taking delivery of our cars? Familiar with the basics of clay barring etc but any info would be Hugely appreciated. Understand though if it's too much work..

[moniz]

Originally Posted by Hamza7

I know I am really pushing the limits because I took this thread into a different topic but I just have to show what Moniz is talking about



You see all those red spots, those were once rust spots that are on every car but especially visible on white cars. When Iron containments attach them selves to your car, they will rust on your paint degrading their level. A thorough decontamination will remove that. I can do this service for you or I can explain how you can do it your self but not in this thread, PM me or request me to make a thread.

Let's get back on topic people

Yeah sorry to off topic a bit, but felt I owed you, to back you up about what needs to be done properly, because like you said, the dealer sure as hell ain't gonna do it.

Now back to the topic at hand. Have yet to see any at the dealers in the Hamilton/Burlington area, being in the extreme west GTA/ just outside of the GTA. I'm guessing the major centres like Toronto are getting them first?

[ArKiTeCkT]

So what are you suggesting. Upon taking delivery - dont wash and take it to you right away.

[Hamza7]

Originally Posted by ArKiTeCkT

So what are you suggesting. Upon taking delivery - dont wash and take it to you right away.

Well you can take it to any component Detailer that uses good methodology and product selection. I do have at least two fT-86's booked so I will be have some experience working with this car as well as give a special discount for this forum alone.

I've outlined my reasons for why you wouldn't want to risk a dealers hand in washing above but I wouldn't mind if you came to me or rather I to you since I'm mobile, just do I don't waste your time the price is $200 for 3 hours of work and yes it gets the "works", including washing, thorough and safe Decon, polishing, and a selection of wax or sealants depending on owner requirements and vehicle colour.

I would regularly charge 250-300 for this service, fyi

Edit: Updated the price because these are not coming in great shape. This will require more work then initially estimated.

[Heero]

Originally Posted by Hamza7

Well you can take it to any component Detailer that uses good methodology and product selection. I do have at least two fT-86's booked so I will be have some experience working with this car as well as give a special discount for this forum alone.

I've outlined my reasons for why you wouldn't want to risk a dealers hand in washing above but I wouldn't mind if you came to me or rather I to you since I'm mobile, just do I don't waste your time the price is $140 for 3 hours of work and yes it gets the "works", including washing, thorough and safe Decon, polishing, and a selection of wax or sealants depending on owner requirements and vehicle colour.

I would regularly charge 250-300 for this service, fyi

Sounds good, I'm interested in you services... few questions tho:

Can you detail your process? Will you be: Washing, claying, polishing, glazing, sealing, waxing & top coating? Jeweling? Iron cut?

Do you use alcohol after polishing?
Do you also gel & seal rims and muffler?

Also, how often does this process need to be repeated? Sorry, never had a car detailed before so I just asked around to see what needs to be done during detailing.

Thanks

[Hamza7]

Originally Posted by Heero

Sounds good, I'm interested in you services... few questions tho:

Can you detail your process? Will you be: Washing, claying, polishing, glazing, sealing, waxing & top coating? Jeweling? Iron cut?

Do you use alcohol after polishing?
Do you also gel & seal rims and muffler?

Also, how often does this process need to be repeated? Sorry, never had a car detailed before so I just asked around to see what needs to be done during detailing.

Thanks

Wow for someone who doesn't know much about detailing you sure know a lot about detailing.

Process is as follows.

-Pre Rinse / Snow Foam

-Washed 2 Bucket Method

-Tires, Rims and Wheel wheels cleaned

-Vehicle thoroughly decontaminated using various chemical and methods, especially important for vehicles that are made overseas (Using a host of chemicals)

-Vehicle polished to perfection, marks or scratches that have been made during the time of manufacturing or delivery will be eliminated and/or corrected (polishing and jeweling) multiple IPA wipe-downs will follow

-The vehicle can then be protected by a assortment of waxes or sealants which will be chosen by the detailer or owner can make any specific request. Each wax or sealants has their own special characteristic and will be explained during the time of detail.

Here is me doing step 1

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH5ercS4yXc"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH5ercS4yXc[/ame]

Here I put a special sealant on the rims and the exhaust, you will literally have to use water to wash those things after I am done. This sealant will last you up to 4 months

That exhaust was cleaned the month before, when I first treated it and it still came out like new. This is a customer with Turbo Mazda which sees track time and "Spirited" Driving
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hfh0hqSHQ1g"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hfh0hqSHQ1g[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QljJ6T2BZcE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QljJ6T2BZcE[/ame]

[ArKiTeCkT]

I dont really know about detailing myself. So after doing the above process, can i just clean the car myself on a regular basis or do i have to have it done by you.

[7thgear]

you clean the car yourself using the two bucket system and a light touch, no heavy chemicals (otherwise you'll just scrub the clearcoat off)

depending on how often you need to clean the car, the clearcoat will have to be reapplied at somepoint.

[7thgear]

Hamza7 , what are your thoughts on rust proofing vechiles for winter use?

also, for those of us that have to store vehicles in somewhat damp, underground, concrete parking lots, what are some of the ways we can protect our paints from corrosion/deterioration?

[Hamza7]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

you clean the car yourself using the two bucket system and a light touch, no heavy chemicals (otherwise you'll just scrub the clearcoat off)

depending on how often you need to clean the car, the clearcoat will have to be reapplied at somepoint.

This is correct, you can do it your self afterwards. You just have to learn the proper method the first time.

Originally Posted by 7thgear

Hamza7 , what are your thoughts on rust proofing vechiles for winter use?

also, for those of us that have to store vehicles in somewhat damp, underground, concrete parking lots, what are some of the ways we can protect our paints from corrosion/deterioration?

Rust proofing is a great idea but make sure tell them you don't want any overspray of the anti-rust solution in your door jambs or doors. These cars are made in Japan so they may have some rust issues but lets hope for the best.


Storage wise, it would be a good idea to have a clean and protected car (either Wax or Sealant). Don't mess about with car covers, they will do more damage then good. A nice strong sealant or wax is really what people need.

Make sure you don't leave anything in the interior as well, it would be a good idea to shampoo or put a enzyme cleaner in the carpet so you don't get any funny smells when you take her out in spring.

Mechanically I am sure you guys know what to do.

[7thgear]

sorry just to clarify, i meant what to do if the car is daily driven (all year round) and parked in a damp underground garage every single day.

[moniz]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

Hamza7 , what are your thoughts on rust proofing vechiles for winter use?

also, for those of us that have to store vehicles in somewhat damp, underground, concrete parking lots, what are some of the ways we can protect our paints from corrosion/deterioration?

Well one thing is to NOT park a car indoors after driving after salting/brining has a taken place in freezing temps. Your car will not start to corrode in freezing weather, it's when that salt is on your car and the temp starts to climb, like parking it indoors, that you give corrosion and good start because all that snow/ice/moisture will start to melt into those crevices and weld spots which are the weakest point and the usually the first spots to start corroding.

Speaking for rust proetction, I've had it done both to my '94 Si and my '98 EL. The Si was purchased used and had a small rust area from a previous repair. I had it sprayed every year by Krown until I sold it in '07 and that aera never expanded and had to other rust anywhere that I could find. My '98 El was sprayed as well up to about 2 years ago and still no rust to be found anywhere. The only reason I stopped is because I though I was going to sell it at the time, and since then it's been more of a beater for me so I'm not that concerned anymore.

Now Krown DOES drill holes to apply to inner fenders, doors, etc so you have to be ok with that. I know that makes most people cringe, but when I saw a guy bring in his new Bimmer to get it done, I figured I was ok since I keep my cars a long long time, as was this guy was planning to do.

If you plan to keep it until it dies, then I would say consider it, since it's a yearly commitment, a little messy for the first couple days after each spray cause of the dripping (but nothing that doesn't clean up after easily after with a good car wash, plus gives you an excuse to detail the engine!) since will keep corrosion at bay for a long long time. Plus Krown offer a guarantee for any new car that they start treating against corrosion(as always read the fine print). If on the other hand you might get rid of the car when the next new thing comes along or plan to do a full proper winter storage procedure, you might not get the value out of it that you put in. It's really a personal choice.

And also check with Toyota's warranty against corrosion and make sure using rust proofing doesn't void theirs' or if the Krown one top theirs even if it might void Toyota. And for the record, NO warranty from any of them will cover surface corrosion from stone chips and the like. Toyota's(any car maker really) or Krowns' will only cover from the inside out, ie: rust through