CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Turkish

Yes and yes

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Then I would say stick with the 400's and the RCE bars. Keep the bars on soft to start, then maybe experiment with going up a notch on the rear bar.

You may also find that you can shift the balance in a way that works for you by using the rake of the car.

I suspect that a little more front camber would have been worthwhile for you on your old set-up. With the T2s understeer will not be an issue when we dial it in.

- Andy

[Legendaryl]

Originally Posted by Bobblehead

Just got back from getting my car aligned after I dropped it on H&R sport springs. Here's the sheet they printed out for me.

The front:

I'll need to get camber bolts in order to the -1 camber you guys said was optimal, but I'm happy with the ~0 camber. Is there any negative to running 0 camber over -1 in the front?

The rear:

I don't think the 0.3 variance is anything concerned about, is it?

Before:


After:


Thanks in advanced guys!

Plain and simple. The green/red bars make it easy. Your finished alignment looks good overall... where did you get your car aligned at?
Just curious. Honestly to me your alignment looks like it got done at a big name business, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that considering how expensive an alignment rack/computer/software is, however there are shops that specialize in alignments. I know people that have taken a brand new vehicle to get there alignment done at one and it is a noticeable difference. In the end, do I think your alignment is good? Absolutely. I know I don't have any pics up and have recently joined so I don't really feel comfortable without giving a little background of myself because people can be "mis-informative". I went to college for a diesel cert, worked at a local goodyear as the lowest paid technician in that shops history for 2 years, then as a tech at a local Infiniti dealership for a year, then to a local Chevy/Mazda dealership as a diesel tech for 1 year plus.

[Legendaryl]

Ok fellas. I have a 13 10 series frs. Stock suspension and looking to upgrade. I have 225/40/r18x7.5 in the front and 255/40/r18x8.5 in the rear. I want to lower my car enough to just get rid of a little of that well gap, but I want to do it correctly. That being said I know I will need new spacers for my tires, and new suspension as well... and an alignment kit... I'm just not sure which direction to go/or brand. I don't want my slammed. I just want it lower, but "practical" if you know what I mean. I already worry enough about going over speed bumps. Thanks in Advance, -Daryl

[ScionOfHorus]

Originally Posted by Legendaryl

Ok fellas. I have a 13 10 series frs. Stock suspension and looking to upgrade. I have 225/40/r18x7.5 in the front and 255/40/r18x8.5 in the rear. I want to lower my car enough to just get rid of a little of that well gap, but I want to do it correctly. That being said I know I will need new spacers for my tires, and new suspension as well... and an alignment kit... I'm just not sure which direction to go/or brand. I don't want my slammed. I just want it lower, but "practical" if you know what I mean. I already worry enough about going over speed bumps. Thanks in Advance, -Daryl

Honestly, you can cheat if you don't want to lower. Upgrade when size to 17/8-9" and use 245/45/17 tires. That'll fill up the gap decently.

[Bobblehead]

Originally Posted by Legendaryl

Plain and simple. The green/red bars make it easy. Your finished alignment looks good overall... where did you get your car aligned at?
Just curious. Honestly to me your alignment looks like it got done at a big name business, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that considering how expensive an alignment rack/computer/software is, however there are shops that specialize in alignments. I know people that have taken a brand new vehicle to get there alignment done at one and it is a noticeable difference. In the end, do I think your alignment is good? Absolutely. I know I don't have any pics up and have recently joined so I don't really feel comfortable without giving a little background of myself because people can be "mis-informative". I went to college for a diesel cert, worked at a local goodyear as the lowest paid technician in that shops history for 2 years, then as a tech at a local Infiniti dealership for a year, then to a local Chevy/Mazda dealership as a diesel tech for 1 year plus.

Thanks!
I was really only wondering about the short term camber in the front, and the caster everywhere else.

But yeah, I got it done at a chain place about 5 minutes from my house. It cost about $85, but the car feels so much better than it did before. Maybe even just a little faster/more eager? Probably placebo.

[Legendaryl]

Originally Posted by Bobblehead

Thanks!
I was really only wondering about the short term camber in the front, and the caster everywhere else.

But yeah, I got it done at a chain place about 5 minutes from my house. It costed about $85, but the car feels so much better than it did before. Maybe even just a little faster/more eager? Probably placebo.

Anytime. If the tires are directed in the motion of travel then it may not be just a placebo effect.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by Legendaryl

Ok fellas. I have a 13 10 series frs. Stock suspension and looking to upgrade. I have 225/40/r18x7.5 in the front and 255/40/r18x8.5 in the rear. I want to lower my car enough to just get rid of a little of that well gap, but I want to do it correctly. That being said I know I will need new spacers for my tires, and new suspension as well... and an alignment kit... I'm just not sure which direction to go/or brand. I don't want my slammed. I just want it lower, but "practical" if you know what I mean. I already worry enough about going over speed bumps. Thanks in Advance, -Daryl

What offset are your wheels? You don't necessarily need spacers, it's just a looks thing. Keep in mind that some spacers have embedded wheel studs, which means you can bolt them to your hub and bolt the wheel to the spacer. Some spacers are slip-on, which means you'll probably need to replace the wheel studs with longer ones. If you do this, get ARP.


How much do you want to lower your car? Do you want to do springs on the OEM struts, springs on aftermarket struts, or coilovers? Springs on OEM struts are limited to how low they can go before the strut starts to bottom out. Aftermarket struts can be built to go lower than OEM (e.g., Bilstein B8). Coilovers will go lower than both.


For alignment, it depends on what kind of numbers you're looking for. In the front, you can get camber bolts to start with. Those are cheap, but only give you about ± 1.5 degrees or so. If you want more, you'll need camber plates, which are much more expensive. For the rear, you'll get some camber purely from lowering the vehicle. Mine is at -2 degrees just from the springs. If you want to even the sides out, or adjust it in or out from where it sits, you'll need to install something that lets you do such things. H&R makes an eccentric bolt for the LCA that can adjust camber, but its range is limited. Several companies make bolts for the UCA, but their range is also pretty limited (~± 1 degree). If you want decent adjustability, you'll need aftermarket LCAs. Those range anywhere from $210 to $600+.


Start looking around FT-86 SpeedFactory's suspension section for all the different options to help narrow down what you're looking for.

[superleggera]

I recently installed my Tein Street Flex coilovers and I'm getting some clunking in the rear when going slowly over rougher pavement (think parking lot speeds). I checked and everything is tight, and also added about 5mm of preload to the standard Tein measurements which has helped a little bit, but still has some clunking. I thought about loosening up the bolts back there, and placing a small load on the suspension when I torque the suspension bolts. Any other potential suggestions? Still on factory swaybar/endlinks/control arms.

[7thgear]

does our rear toe go in or out when the rear is raised above oem?

[7thgear]

so...


I'm generally on the side of OEM when it comes to setup choices. After all, they have the R&D infrastructure to actually test things..


and one of the things I've always been keen on was scrub radius and people's decisions to go too far off the cliff when it came to offsets.


however, their oem TRD wheel offering spits right in my face..


at 18X7 +35mm in the front, this is 13mm off what an OEM car runs.

this is a noticeable change.. the steering must feel heavier. But they wouldn't do that if it wasn't unsafe or adverse?

what about lug strength/thread amount. 13mm generally calls for extended studs or a spacer with studs. I wonder if the TRD package comes with longer studs?

curious minds want to know!

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

at 18X7 +35mm in the front, this is 13mm off what an OEM car runs.

this is a noticeable change.. the steering must feel heavier. But they wouldn't do that if it wasn't unsafe or adverse?

what about lug strength/thread amount. 13mm generally calls for extended studs or a spacer with studs. I wonder if the TRD package comes with longer studs?

curious minds want to know!

Uhhhh, what? You don't have to change the studs because the offset of the wheel is different.


That doesn't make the mounting face thicker, it's the plane of the mounting face relative to the center of the wheel.


You need extended lugs to run spacers, or if you want bullet studs to aid in quick wheels changes, etc.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Uhhhh, what? You don't have to change the studs because the offset of the wheel is different.


That doesn't make the mounting face thicker, it's the plane of the mounting face relative to the center of the wheel.
.

this would actually depend on the wheel design...


if the mounting face is thicker, but the nut holes are on the same plane, then you have less thread for engagement.


do wheel manufacturers offset their change in offset by drilling their nut holes deeper? (I don't know?)

I certainly ran into this issue of not having enough thread when I put +35 wheels on my old impreza (oem +53), I had only a little thread available.

[OkieSnuffBox]

True, but in all my years of modding cars running different wheels, from Work SSR Enkei Konig etc, I've never needed extended studs because of a different width or offset.


There are some cheap wheels that make different offsets available by simply shaving more material off the mounting pad.........but wheels like that should typically be avoided.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

True, but in all my years of modding cars running different wheels, from Work SSR Enkei Konig etc, I've never needed extended studs because of a different width or offset.


There are some cheap wheels that make different offsets available by simply shaving more material off the mounting pad.........but wheels like that should typically be avoided.

regardless of the stud issue though, a 13mm offset shift while the width remains the same means a noticeable affect on scrub


did TRD simply go to please the stance people, or does this actually work into better geometry?