40 MPG?

[GT86_PRAGUE]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Or you could... I don't know.... read the manual maybe?

I was referring to a fact that this indicator is not only on AT.
I have it on and I like it (even if I dont need it).

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

My car did 38mpg at 65mph in cruise control coming back from the dealer...

You weren't supposed to use the cruise control for the first 1000 miles. That's the only truly critical part of the break-in instructions.

Now the engine will explode. Sorry.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by GT86_PRAGUE

I was referring to a fact that this indicator is not only on AT.
I have it on and I like it (even if I dont need it).

I do to. I was just poking you about having to use YT when how to turn it on is right in the manual.

[NOHOME]

I find that the fun/mile ratio is inverse to the miles/gallon ratio. There might be a squared factor in there also.

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

I do to. I was just poking you about having to use YT when how to turn it on is right in the manual.

But the manual doesn't have videos in it.

[Dadhawk]

Best I've done is a little over 36MPG over about 350 miles but that was with an average speed over 70MPH.

[Scenic Driver]

Originally Posted by NOHOME

I find that the fun/mile ratio is inverse to the miles/gallon ratio. There might be a squared factor in there also.

I agree, I get around 25-26 in the BRZ and I could barely get 35 mpg out of a Golf TDI. I have fun as often as I can.

[Fishbed77]

So you bought a sports car to get good gas mileage?

I did and I do.

My previously daily driver was a Nissan Xterra 4X4 (which I still own and is an excellent vehicle). MPG for that vehicle averages 14-17 MPG. By comparison, the MPG of my 6MT FR-S is averaging 32 MPG, and I do a lot of short-distance commuting.

So I'm pretty happy about decision to buy a sports car for the good gas mileage.

Of course, that's just one of the reasons I bought it, but still a major one.

[GT86_PRAGUE]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

I do to. I was just poking you about having to use YT when how to turn it on is right in the manual.

I am able to read only digits 1-6 and R.
I am not even sure I own something like car manual...

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

My car did 38mpg at 65mph in cruise control coming back from the dealer, I got more because I press the clutch in when the road is downhill.

☑ rekt ☐ not rekt

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

IMy car did 38mpg at 65mph in cruise control coming back from the dealer, I got more because I press the clutch in when the road is downhill.

You actually got worse gas mileage by doing that. When you let the engine brake the car, the computer cuts off the fuel flow because no fuel is needed to turn the engine. The momentum of the car turns it. When you push in the clutch, the engine goes to idle, which burns fuel to keep the engine turning. Leaving it in gear going downhill therefore uses less fuel.

If you were driving an older car with a carburetor, it would have been the other way around.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

☑ rekt ☐ not rekt

lol you guys are funny, I bought a used car with 28k on it -_-

Also, if you calculate fuel burn per unit energy saved by not engine braking, you'll find that coasting downhill is more fuel efficient if you are not slowing down afterward. DCTs these days have an auto-coast function that does that to save fuel. That's why it's called engine braking. Nice try though.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Also, if you calculate fuel burn per unit energy saved by not engine braking, you'll find that coasting downhill is more fuel efficient if you are not slowing down afterward. DCTs these days have an auto-coast function that does that to save fuel. That's why it's called engine braking. Nice try though.

UMMMMM... no.
You are not using fuel when engine braking you are using compression. Extra already explained it perfectly.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

UMMMMM... no.
You are not using fuel when engine braking you are using compression. Extra already explained it perfectly.

It uses the car's kinetic energy to power the engine. That energy is not free. Coasting down a hill saves it, at the expense of burning a little fuel to idle (hardcore hypermilers shut their engine off when they coast to save this fuel).

Imagine if you were travelling down a slight hill, steep enough to maintain whatever target speed. If you were engine braking, the car would slow down, and you'd have to keep on applying gas over and over to recover speed. If you coast down the hill, you only burn what fuel it takes to idle. If you barely feed it enough throttle to maintain speed, you're essentially idling the engine at a higher rpm, since it's not doing work, which takes more fuel. Apply gas -> engine brake -> apply gas -> engine brake is generally even less efficient.

Nevermind theory, you can try this pretty easily. Reset the average mpg meter on a flat road and turn on the cruise control, note the number. Then reset it, accelerate slowly then clutch in, rinse and repeat, maintaining the same average speed with a bit of fluctuation. The mpg meter will read a little higher if you do it right. The fuel wasted idling is offset by the drag saved by not spinning the engine as quickly and operating the engine at higher efficiency when accelerating.