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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!

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Old 05-29-2015, 02:30 PM   #15
mav1178
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You can still mess up ARP if you don't keep the threads clean, especially with open-ended lug nuts.
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:48 PM   #16
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No issues with ARPS. I swapped them on the front of my BRZ 2 weeks after I bought it. My old STi had them the whole way around as well. I have my wheels off every other week. Studs look great after the year, I do see some rust in my lugs, but I'm not worried about that.

I know a lot of people with the GR WRX had issues with studs breaking as well.
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by superpenguin View Post
I'd love to go ARP, the only thing stopping me right now is the cost as I don't have acess to a press and I can't really have the car on jacks for a couple days while I drop the hubs off at a machine shop

But there's a reason just about every serious track car you'll see has gone over to ARP studs. They are the industry standard, period.
You don't *need* a press. I use one because I have one. Multiple ways to safely install them though.


OP: I never broke OEM ones on the BRZ, but I've never broken an ARP on any car. It's the first thing I do to my track cars.
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:42 PM   #18
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yeah from what i remember they were pretty damn easy to do, no messing with changing the bearings and all, even the rear can be removed with the axles in place, follow the how to and it really shows how to do it.

I beleive i didn't use my press when i did them, maybe when taking them out? not sure.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:59 AM   #19
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yeah from what i remember they were pretty damn easy to do, no messing with changing the bearings and all, even the rear can be removed with the axles in place, follow the how to and it really shows how to do it.

I beleive i didn't use my press when i did them, maybe when taking them out? not sure.
but the ARP's wont fit back in.

I had no need for a press either. Once you get the hubs off (fronts can be challenging, I did them without taking the hubs off. Rear hubs are really easy to take off), find a deep well socket or two blocks of wood to support the hub around the stud you're removing, and hit it with a small sledge hammer. It'll pop right out with one or two whacks. Use the pass through lug nut/washer method to pull the new ones into place (very easy with an impact wrench). One tip: if you're pulling the studs into place in rapid succession, use a new lug nut on each one because they will build up a lot of heat in the process and shed metal onto your pretty new bronze studs.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:48 AM   #20
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but the ARP's wont fit back in.

I had no need for a press either. Once you get the hubs off (fronts can be challenging, I did them without taking the hubs off. Rear hubs are really easy to take off), find a deep well socket or two blocks of wood to support the hub around the stud you're removing, and hit it with a small sledge hammer. It'll pop right out with one or two whacks. Use the pass through lug nut/washer method to pull the new ones into place (very easy with an impact wrench). One tip: if you're pulling the studs into place in rapid succession, use a new lug nut on each one because they will build up a lot of heat in the process and shed metal onto your pretty new bronze studs.
well you still have to remove the bearings hubs but you don't need to remove the whole carrier and drain the rear diff, etc, that's what i meant. Only 4 bolts and the bearings can be taken out with the axles still in place in the rear diff.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:50 PM   #21
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I did it in a few hours using a hammer and a impact wrench.. I just broke the top off of one of my old lug nuts and hammered them all out. For the fronts you can just slide them in on the back of the hub. No one told me that, till I figured it out saved some time!
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