Is there any reason I shouldn't jack up my car from the side in the middle of the car - Page 2 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

qoncept · 10-09-2014, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nmastereal

IMO: Use the jack points if you can. If you are going to be modding your car, invest in the low profile one from harbor freight. It pays itself back in no time with ease of use.

To add: don't buy the craftsman jack. Read the reviews if you want to know why. Harbor Freight is much better.

Frishkorn · 10-09-2014, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat

It's easier.

Not sure how this is easier then lifting from front or rear and installing two jack stands at the same.

Frishkorn · 10-09-2014, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdrianG

Doing that will mess up your car. The jack up points are reinforced.

- AdrianG

And even with the reinforcement expect a minor amount of denting to the front jacking point. I even used a block of wood like I always have.

qoncept · 10-09-2014, 01:41 PM

Most of these comments are pretty sidetracked. Here's my advice:

I wouldn't jack the car up on the side from anywhere other than the recommended jack points. As has been mentioned, they're reinforced and made for it.

- Forget about the pinch weld (it runs through the jack point and will bend if any weight is on it there, too, so it's really irrelevant). If you're jacking on the side you'll need an adapter or whatever or it will bend, period.

- If the point of your question is lifting 2 wheels at the same time for changing tires (the only way I can imagine it being "easier"), you can lift both front or rear wheels using the points above.

- OR.. I'm at work and can't confirm, but I would guess you can lift it from either of the side jack points and get one side high enough to pick 2 wheels off the ground.

Beyond that, I can't think of a reason to jack the car from any other point.

wheelhaus · 10-09-2014, 02:34 PM

I can understand lifting from the side, it's a little more stable than from the front or rear side jack point by the wheels, but I'd be weary of something bending. I've thought about it but have never done it. If some people have had experience jacking an 86 like this and have seen body damage occur (not just the pinch weld getting mushed), then that's enough for me. Some internet people saying "no the manual says..." or "duh yyour dumb" without any real evidence is kinda worthless.

I've jacked Subarus from the pinch weld for many years, and while none have outright buckled, most have shown some deformation. However I've only done this from the designated points. I'd like to pick up that Miata tool, looks handy.

I VASTLY prefer jacking from the center crossmenber and diff, however you need a long low profile jack, like the 68050 from Harbor Freight. It's heavy and a little unwieldy, but it works like a charm. Kind of a PITA to bring to the track, though.

qoncept · 10-09-2014, 05:04 PM

The aluminum 2 and 3 ton jacks at Harbor Freight will reach if your car isn't lowered.

PNA · 10-14-2014, 09:48 PM

The aluminum 1.5 Ton jack from Harbor Freight also works. It's relatively light and compact too!

Model Citizen · 10-15-2014, 07:17 PM

a hockey puck with a channel cut is a wonderful thing

qoncept · 10-16-2014, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Model Citizen

a hockey puck with a channel cut is a wonderful thing

I used scrap 2x4s with a dado

Bimble Bamble · 04-17-2015, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdrianG

No, I don't have first hand experience because I am not stupid.

If you search the forums though I saw a post a while ago of someone who did a bad job placing their jack stands and the car bent a bit.

- AdrianG

He is correct, the post is here with pics of the damage in the forum entitled Safely Jacking and Supporting Your BRZ/FR-S :http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=10111&page=4

I am cheap and patient and only need to work on one wheel at a time anyway so I use the oem scissor jack just left of the leftmost notch, raise the oem jack to full height which has the tire off the ground and allows you to just slide a 3 Ton HF Stand on its lowest setting underneath the other notch. Stable too. no problems, i watched and listened carefully.

This product is the shit tho, it lets you use a floor jack on the pinch points! Sold out tho https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-jack-adapter.html

Tcoat · 04-17-2015, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qoncept

I used scrap 2x4s with a dado

Shit, I read that all wrong when I first saw it!

qoncept · 04-20-2015, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Shit, I read that all wrong when I first saw it!

Ouch.

wbradley · 04-20-2015, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qoncept

Ouch.

Master Splinter is such a rat.

cywinr · 04-28-2015, 02:22 PM

imagine where all the weight is going when you jack from the middle. you have half the car's weight pushing down from both ends of the car.

if you jack it from the pinch welds, not only are they reinforced, but you are only lifting a quarter of the car. most of the weight will be pushing down on the 3 other wheels that are still in contact with the ground.

get a pair of used jack stands from craigslist for like 10-20$ and do it properly. save your car. save your life.

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10-09-2014, 02:34 PM	#19
wheelhaus Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 2013 BRZ, 2020 KTM Super Duke 1290R Location: Denver Posts: 1,788 Thanks: 714 Thanked 1,141 Times in 624 Posts Mentioned: 49 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I can understand lifting from the side, it's a little more stable than from the front or rear side jack point by the wheels, but I'd be weary of something bending. I've thought about it but have never done it. If some people have had experience jacking an 86 like this and have seen body damage occur (not just the pinch weld getting mushed), then that's enough for me. Some internet people saying "no the manual says..." or "duh yyour dumb" without any real evidence is kinda worthless. I've jacked Subarus from the pinch weld for many years, and while none have outright buckled, most have shown some deformation. However I've only done this from the designated points. I'd like to pick up that Miata tool, looks handy. I VASTLY prefer jacking from the center crossmenber and diff, however you need a long low profile jack, like the 68050 from Harbor Freight. It's heavy and a little unwieldy, but it works like a charm. Kind of a PITA to bring to the track, though.

10-14-2014, 09:48 PM	#21
PNA Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Drives: 2013 BRZ Sport-tech Location: Ottawa Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	The aluminum 1.5 Ton jack from Harbor Freight also works. It's relatively light and compact too!

04-28-2015, 02:22 PM	#28
cywinr Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Drives: DGM BRZ MT Location: Richmond, BC Canada Posts: 56 Thanks: 11 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	imagine where all the weight is going when you jack from the middle. you have half the car's weight pushing down from both ends of the car. if you jack it from the pinch welds, not only are they reinforced, but you are only lifting a quarter of the car. most of the weight will be pushing down on the 3 other wheels that are still in contact with the ground. get a pair of used jack stands from craigslist for like 10-20$ and do it properly. save your car. save your life.

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