Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

A splitter did not function in our experience.

It sounds like you need an oil cooler, more than changing oil weights. Changing oil weights is a band-aid. The oil cooler is the real solution.

I was actually going to attempt to use a splitter this weekend. We'll see what happens and I'll report back.

-mike

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

I was actually going to attempt to use a splitter this weekend. We'll see what happens and I'll report back.

-mike

A physical splitter cable (ie one that doesn't have a CAN bus hub in it) will only stand a chance of working if one device is using CAN bus protocol and the other is using the OBDII protocol (so then they are using different pins). I don't know much about the P3, but the Solo DL can be configured to read the car as a generic OBDII device. The data rate and fields kind of suck, but you might give that a try if you really really want to use both. At the same time, if the P3 can be configured to run as a generic OBDII device then you might be able to use the Solo DL with the normal 86 configuration.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

A physical splitter cable (ie one that doesn't have a CAN bus hub in it) will only stand a chance of working if one device is using CAN bus protocol and the other is using the OBDII protocol (so then they are using different pins). I don't know much about the P3, but the Solo DL can be configured to read the car as a generic OBDII device. The data rate and fields kind of suck, but you might give that a try if you really really want to use both. At the same time, if the P3 can be configured to run as a generic OBDII device then you might be able to use the Solo DL with the normal 86 configuration.

However, in generic OBD2 mode, we don't get any of the data we find valuable.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

However, in generic OBD2 mode, we don't get any of the data we find valuable.

Exactly.

As I said: "The data rate and fields kind of suck"

Really, if you want gauges and such from the ECU while getting data logging, you are looking at a higher product line than the Solo DL (or trying out a CAN bus hub).

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

Exactly.

As I said: "The data rate and fields kind of suck"

Really, if you want gauges and such from the ECU while getting data logging, you are looking at a higher product line than the Solo DL (or trying out a CAN bus hub).

Most likely I will yank the obdii connection on the P3 and just use the solo dl for on track in the Project BRZ. With the Spec86 we are going full MXL2 Dash.

Mike

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

Most likely I will yank the obdii connection on the P3 and just use the solo dl for on track in the Project BRZ. With the Spec86 we are going full MXL2 Dash.

Mike

That's generally what happens in any car i sit in with a P3 gauge... the peaks feature is nice but the AIM is far more valuable.

I do wish the AIM had a screen like the V3 AP, which shows peaks and valleys, as well as current.

[ExxelDistributions]

just picked up a set of enkei rpf1's. want to get some lugs for these wheels. can anyone suggest what is good and tested on track that i can pick up since i will be tracking beginning of next month and need to get them soon. I want to get the CSG lugs but they are all sold out so any suggestion would help please.

Also do you guys recommend using hub rings for racing or not? I was thinking of picking up aluminum hub rings for racing?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by revolutioN21

just picked up a set of enkei rpf1's. want to get some lugs for these wheels. can anyone suggest what is good and tested on track that i can pick up since i will be tracking beginning of next month and need to get them soon. I want to get the CSG lugs but they are all sold out so any suggestion would help please.

Also do you guys recommend using hub rings for racing or not? I was thinking of picking up aluminum hub rings for racing?

Hubcentric rings reduce/eliminate stress on the lugs/studs if you impact your lugs on. You should never be impacting lugs on.

Do you have any alternate choices for lug nuts?

-Mike

[ExxelDistributions]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Hubcentric rings reduce/eliminate stress on the lugs/studs if you impact your lugs on. You should never be impacting lugs on.

Do you have any alternate choices for lug nuts?

-Mike

I torque my lugs regardless of aftermarket wheels or not. But would it be better to run hub rings even if you torque the wheels down.

I was thinking of either EVS Tuning "Super Lap" Racing Lug Nuts, WedsSport Competition Lug Nuts, or Muteki SR35 Lug Nuts but from what I read they say Muteki is no good for track. Can you suggest something that would be good for racing and reliable.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by revolutioN21

I torque my lugs regardless of aftermarket wheels or not. But would it be better to run hub rings even if you torque the wheels down.

I was thinking of either EVS Tuning "Super Lap" Racing Lug Nuts, WedsSport Competition Lug Nuts, or Muteki SR35 Lug Nuts but from what I read they say Muteki is no good for track. Can you suggest something that would be good for racing and reliable.

We're working on the third generation CSG Lugnut, but they won't be here for a while.

The WedsSport lugs are great, and we have them in stock. I've heard good things about the EVS lugs as well.

[ExxelDistributions]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

We're working on the third generation CSG Lugnut, but they won't be here for a while.

The WedsSport lugs are great, and we have them in stock. I've heard good things about the EVS lugs as well.

If you were to compare the 2 which would work better?

[Apex_BRZ]

Question on DBA T3 rotors. Installed them a week ago and it's been fine, but I've noticed some pretty serious discoloration all of a sudden today. Might be surface rust, not sure yet. But man...it's pretty bad. I drive the car daily, and took it to work and back. Pulled the wheels off to start my JR Oil Cooler install and saw this. Seems odd. This is with the OEM pads, I keep the Carbotechs for track only. These babies were super bright and shiny yesterday.

Your thoughts?





I'll get better photos with my DSLR if necessary. Thanks!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Question on DBA T3 rotors. Installed them a week ago and it's been fine, but I've noticed some pretty serious discoloration all of a sudden today. Might be surface rust, not sure yet. But man...it's pretty bad. I drive the car daily, and took it to work and back. Pulled the wheels off to start my JR Oil Cooler install and saw this. Seems odd. This is with the OEM pads, I keep the Carbotechs for track only. These babies were super bright and shiny yesterday.

Your thoughts?





I'll get better photos with my DSLR if necessary. Thanks!

Looks like surface rust. Also looks like the pads are not perfectly mated to the rotor surface, since one is new and the other is not.

Just keep driving and they'll eventually mate themselves.

-Mike

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Looks like surface rust. Also looks like the pads are not perfectly mated to the rotor surface, since one is new and the other is not.

Just keep driving and they'll eventually mate themselves.

-Mike

I drove the car home, walked inside and changed clothes, and then took the wheels off. I've never seen surface rust develop so fast. The back rotors (OEM) are fine.

The pads not mated to the surface of the rotors yet accelerates surface rust? Sorry if this is pretty basic. Road america in a week and a half and in a scramble to get everything done in time.