Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[dj2020]

Just came back from a test drive from my fresh install and noticed that the Outside Temp gauge on the dash is way off. But when I read the ambient air temp via the OBD2, it is definitely more in line with the actual temperature. I did have to relocate a temp sensor from the front of the radiator and zip tie it to the side per the JRSC oil cooler install. What is causing the two different temperatures? Is there a second temp sensor that I might have messed up during the install?

[dj2020]

Just came back from a test drive from my fresh install and noticed that the Outside Temp gauge on the dash is way off. But when I read the ambient air temp via the OBD2, it is definitely more in line with the actual temperature. I did have to relocate a temp sensor from the front of the radiator and zip tie it to the side per the JRSC oil cooler install. What is causing the two different temperatures? Is there a second temp sensor that I might have messed up during the install?

[Xuningshen]

Originally Posted by dj2020

Just came back from a test drive from my fresh install and noticed that the Outside Temp gauge on the dash is way off. But when I read the ambient air temp via the OBD2, it is definitely more in line with the actual temperature. I did have to relocate a temp sensor from the front of the radiator and zip tie it to the side per the JRSC oil cooler install. What is causing the two different temperatures? Is there a second temp sensor that I might have messed up during the install?

Its because your new oil cooler is radiating heat. the sensor that you relocated is picking it up. Mine is also doing it.

[*LongFella]

Originally Posted by dj2020

Just came back from a test drive from my fresh install and noticed that the Outside Temp gauge on the dash is way off. But when I read the ambient air temp via the OBD2, it is definitely more in line with the actual temperature. I did have to relocate a temp sensor from the front of the radiator and zip tie it to the side per the JRSC oil cooler install. What is causing the two different temperatures? Is there a second temp sensor that I might have messed up during the install?

It's normal. Those things are never really right anyways...

[fasteddy]

Originally Posted by dj2020

Just came back from a test drive from my fresh install and noticed that the Outside Temp gauge on the dash is way off. But when I read the ambient air temp via the OBD2, it is definitely more in line with the actual temperature. I did have to relocate a temp sensor from the front of the radiator and zip tie it to the side per the JRSC oil cooler install. What is causing the two different temperatures? Is there a second temp sensor that I might have messed up during the install?

The temp sensor you relocated for the outside air is too close to the radiator. I have this issue as well. I made a bracket and moved it away but mine still reads high.

I am told it needs to be out in the open in the moving air to be correct.

That was the only thing I thought they missed on this kit. They should have included a bracket to move the sensor and a harness extension for it.

This is only a BRZ issue, FRS's don't have the outside temp sensor.

It does not affect anything to do with the engine, it is only for the dash readout.

Pat

[ApolloSki]

Originally Posted by fasteddy

The temp sensor you relocated for the outside air is too close to the radiator. I have this issue as well. I made a bracket and moved it away but mine still reads high.

I am told it needs to be out in the open in the moving air to be correct.

That was the only thing I thought they missed on this kit. They should have included a bracket to move the sensor and a harness extension for it.

This is only a BRZ issue, FRS's don't have the outside temp sensor.

It does not affect anything to do with the engine, it is only for the dash readout.

Pat

My FRS reads outside temperature just as poorly as any BRZ!

[dj2020]

That makes sense. The air temp sensor used to sit in front of the radiator open to air when we're driving. Now it is being blocked by the intercooler and engine oil cooler. Lots of warmer air radiating from that area now!

[Sirsimon]

So for those of you who track your SC 86 quite a lot (thinking track days here), do you feel that stock brakes + upgraded pads are sufficient, or are AP Racing Brakes a must?

[ScionOfHorus]

Originally Posted by Sirsimon

So for those of you who track your SC 86 quite a lot (thinking track days here), do you feel that stock brakes + upgraded pads are sufficient, or are AP Racing Brakes a must?

@theSlowOne

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Sirsimon

So for those of you who track your SC 86 quite a lot (thinking track days here), do you feel that stock brakes + upgraded pads are sufficient, or are AP Racing Brakes a must?

If I had to do it all over again, the AP Racing Sprint Brake kit would be the second mod I do after a MANDATORY oil cooler kit. The AP kit allows you to avoid brake fade and sometimes more than double the life of your pads. Thus the AP kit makes sense if you track a lot.

And if you plan on FI later on, do not get a kit like the perrin 13 row series 6 oil cooler. It is way way too small for track duty in non-winter months with FI. I currently run a 25 row series 9. The JROC is a good kit for track. I have seen it sufficient up to 280ish whp. Maybe CSG can chime in on if it is sufficient at 350+ whp.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by ScionOfHorus

@theSlowOne

I don't think a big brake kit is mandatory. I drive the car hard, but for no more than 20 minutes at a time. Good pads and fluid will get you 75% of the way there. I just installed the Touge Factory duct kit. From others' reports on here, that gets you the last 25% of the way there.
Don't get me wrong, the AP kit is fantastic. But if your primary concern is reliable stopping, I wouldn't consider it mandatory.
Also, if you spend a lot of time on a track, it may make economic sense to get the AP kit.

[Sirsimon]

Thanks everyone - I have the JR oil cooler, and will be getting it installed in a couple of weeks. Brake ducting does seem like a wise investment. On my last Subie I had 6 pot Alcon brakes that we're fabulous, so the pedal effort needed on the 86 is kinda new to me (the Alcons felt telepathic).

Are there key differences between the APR and TF brake duct kits I should be aware of?

DJ

[fasteddy]

Originally Posted by ApolloSki

My FRS reads outside temperature just as poorly as any BRZ!

Sorry, I must be wrong. I did not think they had the outside temp indicator.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Sirsimon

Thanks everyone - I have the JR oil cooler, and will be getting it installed in a couple of weeks. Brake ducting does seem like a wise investment. On my last Subie I had 6 pot Alcon brakes that we're fabulous, so the pedal effort needed on the 86 is kinda new to me (the Alcons felt telepathic).

Are there key differences between the APR and TF brake duct kits I should be aware of?

DJ

The APR kit is more expensive and maybe better built. But the TF puts the air right into the rotor veins where it needs to go. The APR kit blows air onto the rotor face, which generally is less effective. If you want bling, go APR. If you want cool brakes without spending more than necessary, go TF.