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Old 03-17-2015, 08:31 PM   #15
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No problem. I'm very happy with the decision to go 8.5, even though the 9.5s are more concave. Mine are lighter, and can be rotated. Big plusses in my book.

You won't have to align just for wheels and tires. I got mine aligned because I added camber bolts, then again later when I added coilovers.
I see, so if I'm keeping my suspension and all else stock then there is really no point in checking alignment outside of maybe if I got into a car accident, drove over a curb hard or noticed some irregular things such as vibration or the steering being off centered?
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:36 PM   #16
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If you can post the fuel stats that would be greatly appreciated

Thank tou
give me a min

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I see, so if I'm keeping my suspension and all else stock then there is really no point in checking alignment outside of maybe if I got into a car accident, drove over a curb hard or noticed some irregular things such as vibration or the steering being off centered?
correct. Its still a good idea to get alignment checked every once in a while, but otherwise it should stay pretty close to the same.

You need an alignment if:
1. Hit something
2. Remove/swap suspension components(sway bars/strut bars do not count)
3. Raise/lower your car
4.Weird tire wear
5. Other stuff I forgot...but this is most of it
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:37 PM   #17
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This should show you...I have notes for most things/all. Anything low 20's is on e85, but I'll say it in notes.

Also, I thought I had more fill-ups in there, but the numbers there are pretty average for me. I used to track fuel in excel, but switched over to fuelly and haven't moved all my fillups over.
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:22 AM   #18
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This should show you...I have notes for most things/all. Anything low 20's is on e85, but I'll say it in notes.

Also, I thought I had more fill-ups in there, but the numbers there are pretty average for me. I used to track fuel in excel, but switched over to fuelly and haven't moved all my fillups over.
Thank you!
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:47 AM   #19
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No problem. I'm very happy with the decision to go 8.5, even though the 9.5s are more concave. Mine are lighter, and can be rotated. Big plusses in my book.

You won't have to align just for wheels and tires. I got mine aligned because I added camber bolts, then again later when I added coilovers.
Hey thanks for the info, was wondering if you ever got an exact weight? only thing i'm waiting on to lock down the right set of wheels!
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Old 03-18-2015, 04:31 AM   #20
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Hey thanks for the info, was wondering if you ever got an exact weight? only thing i'm waiting on to lock down the right set of wheels!
Weights of the Weds SA10R are here
http://www.wedssport.jp/spectable/sa10r.pdf

18x8.5" = 8.86kg
18x9.5" = 9.27kg

If you're going for weight savings there's lighter options around.

I have the Wedssport SA10R in 18x9.5" +45 all around (I have coil overs) with 255/35/18 tyres. They are my show wheels due to the weight and I have TRD 18x7.5" +46 at 7.5kg each for track or my TWS T66-F in 18x9" +44 at only 7.10kg each.

My setup with SA10R 9.5" is here with 255 tyres.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83798
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Old 03-19-2015, 01:47 AM   #21
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Weights of the Weds SA10R are here
http://www.wedssport.jp/spectable/sa10r.pdf

18x8.5" = 8.86kg
18x9.5" = 9.27kg

If you're going for weight savings there's lighter options around.

I have the Wedssport SA10R in 18x9.5" +45 all around (I have coil overs) with 255/35/18 tyres. They are my show wheels due to the weight and I have TRD 18x7.5" +46 at 7.5kg each for track or my TWS T66-F in 18x9" +44 at only 7.10kg each.

My setup with SA10R 9.5" is here with 255 tyres.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83798
Thanks man! Sadly have to pick one wheel for everything, still shopping around though
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Old 03-19-2015, 04:31 AM   #22
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Thanks man! Sadly have to pick one wheel for everything, still shopping around though
Everyone will have a different opinion but for all round that will be good on track and look good on road I'd go 18x8.5" +35 with car lowered about an inch.

Would be pretty flush and be wide enough to look good but no rubbing and you should be able to get light enough to still be good on track.

Or, if you want narrower but would look fatter as flush I'd go around 18x7.5" +21 or so. Again, lowered about an inch.

My opinion only but I like flush with not too much if any poke.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:52 PM   #23
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with wider, sticky tires you'll probably go down 1-3mpg or so. If you want, I can find my fuelly, and you can see the mpg I had from stock to 18's. It wont really be all that noticeable, though.



18x8.5 with the proper tire should be good with no rubbing.
I ended up going square set of 18x8.5 +45 on Michelin pss 245x35x18

I should be good to go with no rubbing or risks of rubbing with this setup on everything stock correct?
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:26 AM   #24
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I ended up going square set of 18x8.5 +45 on Michelin pss 245x35x18

I should be good to go with no rubbing or risks of rubbing with this setup on everything stock correct?
should be good!
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:28 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by steveholt View Post
I ended up going square set of 18x8.5 +45 on Michelin pss 245x35x18

I should be good to go with no rubbing or risks of rubbing with this setup on everything stock correct?
Agreed with @Shutter , you're good to go.
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Old 04-03-2015, 04:08 AM   #26
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thanks guys.

i've never dealt with rubbing before, what are symptoms of it when driving hard or casual driving? is it subtle or is it very noticeable if it occurs?
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Old 04-10-2015, 04:05 AM   #27
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so there is no fender rubbing, but it seems like a very tight fit for the inside. Not really sure how to tell if i get rubbing on the inside.

when the installer put on the wheel just for a test fit, the clearance on the inside was really really tight... I haven't turned the left/right lockout out of fear of rubbing...

topwise for clearance it looks like i have plenty of room on stock height, not really sure how to test for rubbing on the inside though

i think i might be rubbing on the inside against the coils/struts?
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:55 AM   #28
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so there is no fender rubbing, but it seems like a very tight fit for the inside. Not really sure how to tell if i get rubbing on the inside.

when the installer put on the wheel just for a test fit, the clearance on the inside was really really tight... I haven't turned the left/right lockout out of fear of rubbing...

topwise for clearance it looks like i have plenty of room on stock height, not really sure how to test for rubbing on the inside though

i think i might be rubbing on the inside against the coils/struts?

Do you think its rubbing in the front or the rear? You should be clear on both with the specs mentioned above.
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