SOLVED: Is this 2013 Scion FRS Engine Knocking/Tapping normal?

[aagun]

Any one can post here if there are any LTFT activity . Mine is 14% at idle

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by RedEdTed

Hmm.. mine is making some noises too. Only when the car is warmed up about 20 minutes.
Been going on for over 3 months not getting worse so i took it to Toyota to check it out, (no scion dealers near us).
Report from Toyota:
Cause: ticking noise from high pressure fuel pump
Correction: replaced fuel pump as per tsb 3863

Shortly after driving around warming up the engine i hear the noise again.
Back to the dealer next week probably, this time with the car warmed up and hopefully the noise going. I may bring them some of the information on this forum for them to think about :P

Here is a youtube of the noise:

Sounds like rod knock but not as loud as some others that have posted

[Wilso]

I don't get that tapping sound, but is the noise of the belt supposed to be that loud? Really noticing it on mine these days. Also my injectors.. jeepers

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by Wilso

I don't get that tapping sound, but is the noise of the belt supposed to be that loud? Really noticing it on mine these days. Also my injectors.. jeepers

The injectors ARE loud. It really depends on the noise.

[jaime3]

sounds like rod knock to me? does it get louder as you drive?

[Squishy]

Originally Posted by RedEdTed

Hmm.. mine is making some noises too. Only when the car is warmed up about 20 minutes.
Been going on for over 3 months not getting worse so i took it to Toyota to check it out, (no scion dealers near us).
Report from Toyota:
Cause: ticking noise from high pressure fuel pump
Correction: replaced fuel pump as per tsb 3863

Shortly after driving around warming up the engine i hear the noise again.
Back to the dealer next week probably, this time with the car warmed up and hopefully the noise going. I may bring them some of the information on this forum for them to think about :P

Here is a youtube of the noise:

Yours sounds more like a really bad idle tensioner pulley and not rod knock.

Rod knock would indeed be more audible as you revved the motor. If it does, I am surprised the dealer has not figured that out yet.

[RedEdTed]

Originally Posted by aagun

this is rocker arm and lifter issues

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Would like to offer some words of encouragement but that does not sound promising!
If you have a Subaru dealer nearby you may be better off taking it there then a Toyota one that does not deal with the FRS all the time. The Toyota techs may never have had to deal with the boxer engine before and have no clue what they are looking for.

Originally Posted by BRZnut

Sounds like rod knock but not as loud as some others that have posted

Originally Posted by N1rve

Definately sounds like my issue.

My noise only happens when it's warm too and NOT when it's cold.

Originally Posted by Squishy

Yours sounds more like a really bad idle tensioner pulley and not rod knock.
Rod knock would indeed be more audible as you revved the motor. If it does, I am surprised the dealer has not figured that out yet.

Thanks for all the replies guys!
Well in that case yes it may not be the rod knock?


N1rve, after reading your post about them replacing "All 8" has that first noise issue gone?

Here is the conditions of the noise i'm getting:
-Noise is a tapping knocking noise coming from behind, in or under the engine (not near the front pulley/ alternator system)
- Started about 35,000k's not getting any worse.
- Car really warmed up (after driving for at least 10-20 minutes)
- Most notable when idle or low revs (cant hear over higher revs/ while driving not sure if it stops or engine noise is louder?)
- When noise is going it is consistently going when it starts and only stops when the car turns off and cools down.

I have been too busy this week to do anything. I will call the closest Subaru and Scion dealers with the information I now have and see if I should take it to them or if the local Toyota can actually fix it?
Will post results as they come.

[BRZnut]

Take it to the dealer/ remove any after market add-ons to the engine if you have them before going/ have all your oil change recepts ready to show them.


If this is an engine issue and you did not get all your service at the dealer, get ready for them to try to get out of covering the cost of the repair. That seems to be the trend from those that have posted here.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

Take it to the dealer/ remove any after market add-ons to the engine if you have them before going/ have all your oil change recepts ready to show them.


If this is an engine issue and you did not get all your service at the dealer, get ready for them to try to get out of covering the cost of the repair. That seems to be the trend from those that have posted here.

And we wonder why some dealers question things?
"Honest Mr. Service manager it was completely stock and I really did all my oil changes on time and with the right volume of the right oil" (not saying anybody here does this).
The warranty is very clear that aftermarket parts that may have impacted the failure void the coverage. If you don't think they may have been a problem why take them off? If you do think they may have been a part of it then taking them off is fraud.
My point here is that in a perfect world everybody would be up front and honest with the dealers and they would do warranty work without question but people aren't, so they don't!


(sorry for the sermon)

[Squishy]

Originally Posted by RedEdTed

Thanks for all the replies guys!
Well in that case yes it may not be the rod knock?


N1rve, after reading your post about them replacing "All 8" has that first noise issue gone?

Here is the conditions of the noise i'm getting:
-Noise is a tapping knocking noise coming from behind, in or under the engine (not near the front pulley/ alternator system)
- Started about 35,000k's not getting any worse.
- Car really warmed up (after driving for at least 10-20 minutes)
- Most notable when idle or low revs (cant hear over higher revs/ while driving not sure if it stops or engine noise is louder?)
- When noise is going it is consistently going when it starts and only stops when the car turns off and cools down.

I have been too busy this week to do anything. I will call the closest Subaru and Scion dealers with the information I now have and see if I should take it to them or if the local Toyota can actually fix it?
Will post results as they come.

In that case you could be hearing what I have my car in for. Passenger side exaust cam sprocket failure. Much like the AVO thread for the p0017 (passenger side) or p0016 for driver side exhaust cam sprocket. I hear a clicking that appears relative to that parts weakness.

You may just be hearing the one part loose enough to make the clicking noises but not bad enough to trip the CEL.
or it is something else in the valvetrain. This is the worse scenario to know something is wrong but no CEL to back it up.

Hope you luck solving the problem.

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by RedEdTed

Thanks for all the replies guys!
Well in that case yes it may not be the rod knock?


N1rve, after reading your post about them replacing "All 8" has that first noise issue gone?

Here is the conditions of the noise i'm getting:
-Noise is a tapping knocking noise coming from behind, in or under the engine (not near the front pulley/ alternator system)
- Started about 35,000k's not getting any worse.
- Car really warmed up (after driving for at least 10-20 minutes)
- Most notable when idle or low revs (cant hear over higher revs/ while driving not sure if it stops or engine noise is louder?)
- When noise is going it is consistently going when it starts and only stops when the car turns off and cools down.

I have been too busy this week to do anything. I will call the closest Subaru and Scion dealers with the information I now have and see if I should take it to them or if the local Toyota can actually fix it?
Will post results as they come.

Take it to your dealership to have them listen to it. Only they can authorize the repairs.

My noise has not returned since all replacements.

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

And we wonder why some dealers question things?
"Honest Mr. Service manager it was completely stock and I really did all my oil changes on time and with the right volume of the right oil" (not saying anybody here does this).
The warranty is very clear that aftermarket parts that may have impacted the failure void the coverage. If you don't think they may have been a problem why take them off? If you do think they may have been a part of it then taking them off is fraud.
My point here is that in a perfect world everybody would be up front and honest with the dealers and they would do warranty work without question but people aren't, so they don't!


(sorry for the sermon)

Because.... even if the add on parts have nothing to do with the issue, once the dealer sees you have modified your car they will use it as an excuse to stick the owner with the cost of the repair. Several members here have found that to be the case.


If the dealers were honest with the customers, it would not be necessary to remove the parts before going in.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

Because.... even if the add on parts have nothing to do with the issue, once the dealer sees you have modified your car they will use it as an excuse to stick the owner with the cost of the repair. Several members here have found that to be the case.


If the dealers were honest with the customers, it would not be necessary to remove the parts before going in.

It is a two way street as members also blew it with a tune, over boast or just plain screwing it up and stripped everything down to collect on warranty.
There are also many examples here of people that had warranty work done with no issues so it isn't all the dealers that are out to get the customer.

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

It is a two way street as members also blew it with a tune, over boast or just plain screwing it up and stripped everything down to collect on warranty.
There are also many examples here of people that had warranty work done with no issues so it isn't all the dealers that are out to get the customer.

I agree. If you boost your ride and it blows , you should be man enough to fix it yourself and not try to scam your local dealer.


I just wish we could get a handle at what causes the oil starvation issues on non-modified cars. Are they a little low on oil? over due for an oil change? Always run at 6,000 RPM?


I am all about doing all I can to prevent an issue, but other than changing my oil with a good synthetic every 5000-7500 miles and not constantly driving like I stole it, not sure what else can be done.