Used 2013 vs Used 2014 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

pdhami · 02-06-2015, 04:14 PM

Hi, should i be wary of buying a 2013 since it's the first model year and their could be problems and instead buy a 2014? Or does it not matter?

Edit: Additionally is there anything I should watch for when buying used, and anything I need to know about 2013 model year?

Shady195 · 02-06-2015, 04:16 PM

Nothing wrong with buying a used 2013 so long as it has a good service history. I bought mine certified pre owned with 20k on the clock, its at just about 34k now without any issues.

Decay107 · 02-06-2015, 04:18 PM

If you intend to keep it stock, go with later than March 2013 build date (its listed on the inside of the door). That way you get the factory tune that fixed (or mostly fixed) the DI seal issue.

pdhami · 02-06-2015, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Decay107

If you intend to keep it stock, go with later than March 2013 build date (its listed on the inside of the door). That way you get the factory tune that fixed (or mostly fixed) the DI seal issue.

If it was built before March 2013 I probably have to go into the dealer and get a tune right?

Decay107 · 02-06-2015, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdhami

If it was built before March 2013 I probably have to go into the dealer and get a tune right?

I don't believe many have been successful in that, I think the only current TSB that will result in a new tune is the intermittent RPM drop one.

pdhami · 02-06-2015, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Decay107

I don't believe many have been successful in that, I think the only current TSB that will result in a new tune is the intermittent RPM drop one.

Yeah the 2013 one was made in April 2012 that's why I'm wary of buying it

WolfsFang · 02-06-2015, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdhami

Yeah the 2013 one was made in April 2012 that's why I'm wary of buying it

As someone who ownes a 2013 that was built in March I have never went in for any TSB and my car is still purring like the first day I got her.

pdhami · 02-06-2015, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WolfsFang

As someone who ownes a 2013 that was built in March I have never went in for any TSB and my car is still purring like the first day I got her.

Well your car has the revised tune then doesn't it?

WolfsFang · 02-06-2015, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdhami

Well your car has the revised tune then doesn't it?

No it should not, I remember threads popping up about that TSB when I already had my car for around a month or more (may 2012).

Decay107 · 02-06-2015, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdhami

Yeah the 2013 one was made in April 2012 that's why I'm wary of buying it

It should be stated that even with the old calibration, you won't really have to worry unless you are tracking your car or shifting very aggressively.

You could always update the tune yourself with an OFT.

pdhami · 02-06-2015, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Decay107

It should be stated that even with the old calibration, you won't really have to worry unless you are tracking your car or shifting very aggressively.

You could always update the tune yourself with an OFT.

Yeah no tracks around here without going through a big hassle, the most aggressive I'll be shifting is on backroads

Tcoat · 02-06-2015, 05:15 PM

There are a number of things that were more prevalent with the early 13s but that does not mean they all have problems nor that the items were not taken care of.
The "safest" bet is to get as late a build as you can (but even that does not mean perfect)

Take a good look at all the fasteners I the engine compartment including the bolt heads on the cover and all clamps and fittings on the intake and exhaust. If some of them are really battered it may indicate that the car had been modded (FI, exhaust, etc) and could mean it was driven a bit harder then normal. Once again that does not mean it is bad but you never know what it was put through.

pdhami · 02-06-2015, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

There are a number of things that were more prevalent with the early 13s but that does not mean they all have problems nor that the items were not taken care of.
The "safest" bet is to get as late a build as you can (but even that does not mean perfect)

Take a good look at all the fasteners I the engine compartment including the bolt heads on the cover and all clamps and fittings on the intake and exhaust. If some of them are really battered it may indicate that the car had been modded (FI, exhaust, etc) and could mean it was driven a bit harder then normal. Once again that does not mean it is bad but you never know what it was put through.

Yeah one of the cars is 2014 dealer driven model and the other is a 2013, they both only have about 9500 kms on them, so that's why I was leaving v towards the 2013 because it seems like it's been driven less roughly over 2 years instead of 1

strat61caster · 02-06-2015, 05:41 PM

Would come down entirely to price and test drive and thorough inspection for me, take the one that feels better and makes you feel comfortable.

Although if the '13 has the non-touch screen unit I'd take that one in a heartbeat. I hate touch screens in cars.

02-06-2015, 04:14 PM	#1
pdhami Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Drives: 2014 Argento FR-S Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 39 Thanks: 30 Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Used 2013 vs Used 2014 Hi, should i be wary of buying a 2013 since it's the first model year and their could be problems and instead buy a 2014? Or does it not matter? Edit: Additionally is there anything I should watch for when buying used, and anything I need to know about 2013 model year?

02-06-2015, 04:18 PM	#3
Decay107 Turning is for Nerds Join Date: Aug 2013 Drives: 35 characters is not enough Location: PDX Posts: 1,974 Thanks: 836 Thanked 1,259 Times in 717 Posts Mentioned: 186 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	If you intend to keep it stock, go with later than March 2013 build date (its listed on the inside of the door). That way you get the factory tune that fixed (or mostly fixed) the DI seal issue. __________________ My build thread / journal / evidence for warranty claim denial Motorcycle build thread

02-06-2015, 05:15 PM	#12
Tcoat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Drives: 2020 Hakone Location: London, Ont Posts: 69,841 Thanks: 61,656 Thanked 108,295 Times in 46,456 Posts Mentioned: 2499 Post(s) Tagged: 50 Thread(s)	There are a number of things that were more prevalent with the early 13s but that does not mean they all have problems nor that the items were not taken care of. The "safest" bet is to get as late a build as you can (but even that does not mean perfect) Take a good look at all the fasteners I the engine compartment including the bolt heads on the cover and all clamps and fittings on the intake and exhaust. If some of them are really battered it may indicate that the car had been modded (FI, exhaust, etc) and could mean it was driven a bit harder then normal. Once again that does not mean it is bad but you never know what it was put through. __________________ Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.

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02-06-2015, 04:16 PM	#2
Shady195 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Drives: '13 10 Series FRS #1203 Location: Albany, NY Posts: 850 Thanks: 7 Thanked 386 Times in 221 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Nothing wrong with buying a used 2013 so long as it has a good service history. I bought mine certified pre owned with 20k on the clock, its at just about 34k now without any issues.

02-06-2015, 05:41 PM	#14
strat61caster - Join Date: Nov 2012 Drives: '13 FRS - STX Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 10,384 Thanks: 13,790 Thanked 9,502 Times in 5,013 Posts Mentioned: 94 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	Would come down entirely to price and test drive and thorough inspection for me, take the one that feels better and makes you feel comfortable. Although if the '13 has the non-touch screen unit I'd take that one in a heartbeat. I hate touch screens in cars.

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