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Old 01-30-2015, 04:46 PM   #15
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Wow, that's a big difference in weight. I figure the width and height differences probably offset each other in terms of weight. Thanks for sharing.
To be fair, Hoosiers are unusually light; the RC1 is on the slightly lighter side within its category.
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Old 02-01-2015, 12:36 PM   #16
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Option 1 Cup in Tw!!!! Thanks for sharing, Im just contemplating trying RC1 out instead of NT01, only problem is i like 215/45/17 which RC1 do hv ....

Good Luck next season!!
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:40 PM   #17
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Option 1 Cup in Tw!!!! Thanks for sharing, Im just contemplating trying RC1 out instead of NT01, only problem is i like 215/45/17 which RC1 do hv ....

Good Luck next season!!
Thanks, we just did some testing the past 2 weeks and were the first N/A 86 to break the 2min mark (3.5km track) on old RC-1's.

With the increase in speed were starting to notice the grip levels in the heavy breaking zones more. I can't think of a better tire for the money, but they sure ain't no Michelin Slick when you gotta stop

Anytime you find yourself over here let us know. I think we may be able to find a ride for ya
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:32 PM   #18
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Thanks, we just did some testing the past 2 weeks and were the first N/A 86 to break the 2min mark (3.5km track) on old RC-1's.



With the increase in speed were starting to notice the grip levels in the heavy breaking zones more. I can't think of a better tire for the money, but they sure ain't no Michelin Slick when you gotta stop



Anytime you find yourself over here let us know. I think we may be able to find a ride for ya

Im indeed going back in March!! Would love to tour ur shop and hitch a ride!


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkfQ
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:45 PM   #19
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I'm back from my first track event with the Maxxis tires and thought I'd go ahead and post up some data comparing them to when I ran Hoosier R6's.

To be fair, this is not a straightforward tire comparison, as I made a number of other modifications that I'm sure helped out with the grip for the RC-1's.

Mods for Hoosier R6:
Essex AP Racing Sprint BBK
Ohlins Road and Track Coilovers
Hoosier R6 225/45R17
Delcious Stage 1 Pump Gas tune
ACT Prolite Clutch/Flywheel
Drive Shaft Shop CF Drive Shaft
Perrin Motor Mounts
Whiteline Diff Cradle
Whiteline Positive Shift Kit
K&N Drop In Filter
Crawford Performance Air/Oil Separator
Enkei RPF-1 17x8
-2.7 camber front
-1.8 camber rear

New Mods for Maxxis RC-1:
225/45R17 Maxxis RC-1
Custom valved Ohlins Road and Track (650lbs front, 750 rear)
Whiteline Rear Subframe lockout bushings
Cusco RS LSD
JDL EL Header, Over pipe, and high flow cat front pipe
GrimmSpeed Intake
Delicious Tuning Stage 2 tune
-3 camber front
-2 camber rear

Red Line: Maxxis RC-1 (relatively normal conditions)
Black Line: Hoosier R6's (perfect conditions cool air, warmed up track)
Blue Line: Hoosier R6's (relatively normal conditions)

Lap Times:


G-Force:


So, just to be clear the black line was with absolutely perfect track conditions. Nearly everyone dropped 2 seconds that session, so I was hesitant to even include it in this comparison. The blue line was from an afternoon session that same day.

Here's my impression of the data and this weekend: With the extra mods that I had for the Maxxis tires I could pretty much match the grip levels I was getting from the Hoosiers last year. There are a few areas that were a bit lacking, namely turn 3 (turn 2 in the data) and turns 16-17 (turn 9 in the data). For turn 3, I had some better speed through that in other sessions (as you can see from the video I had a bit of a drift going through there on my fast lap), but I was consistenly 4-5 mph slower through there than with the Hoosiers. For turns 16-17 the car just didn't feel ready to turn in at the same speed with the Hoosiers and I was consistently 4-6 mph slower through there as well. I think I can pick up some of this time back with just some more experience with the tires and new setup and maybe tweaking a few settings.

For a more general feedback, the tires and suspension setup really felt great this weekend. While it has more to do with the suspension and diff setup than the tires, I had so much more confidence in the car when getting on the gas and was able to get on the gas much earlier, especially in the slow turns. The only criticisms I have for the tires was that they didn't seem to handle trail braking quite as well as the Hoosiers and the fronts would typically give up and result in some understeer under heavy trail braking conditions (turn 1, Oak tree). Through some fiddling with tire pressures (ended up with about 36psi hot all around) and adjusting rebound on the suspension I was able to minimize this, but it still wasn't as good as the Hoosiers. That being said, I will probably end up running the Maxxis RC-1's for most of the year thanks to their rather generous contingency plan for NASA's TT program. But when it comes time for the East Coast Nationals in September I'm probably going to be running on the Hoosier R7's (assuming the dyno reclass I'm going to submit works out the way I think it will).

Fastest Lap with Hoosier R6:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0dyiAhTbHM"]Fastest Lap @ VIR - 2:12.550 - YouTube[/ame]

Fastest Lap with Maxxis RC-1:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5T6qtQAjaw"]Fastest Lap @ VIR - 2:14.503 - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:29 AM   #20
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Good summary, Josh. My feeling last weekend at Road Atlanta on 225 RC1s was quite similar compared to my usual set of 235 Toyo RRs. Overall, the grip levels weren't too far off, but I found significant amounts of understeer with the front end washing out on me in 2 corners (T1 and T7 - both left turns). I'm confident the understeer can be dialed out with setup. I was having some brake issues, and decided not to push the car too much, so I didn't focus on collecting meaningful data.

I plan to reverse the testing process this weekend at Roebling Road. 225 RC1 (5hc) vs 245 RS3 (5k miles) vs 235 RR(15 hc). I know exactly where the RRs sit compared to R6. If the RC1 can be tweaked to match or outperform the Toyos given the points savings, then just like you it's a no brainer.
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Old 06-06-2015, 04:27 PM   #21
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I know this is a tire thread but how are you guys adjusting rear camber without LCAs? Are you using bolts or just adjusting ride height?
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Old 06-06-2015, 11:07 PM   #22
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I know this is a tire thread but how are you guys adjusting rear camber without LCAs? Are you using bolts or just adjusting ride height?
You'll need a race alignment shop. They know the secrets, and more importantly, have the equipment to make it happen.

Quite frankly, getting this kind of work done will likely cost you more than just getting arms and a regular alignment. The only situation where you do something like this is when you have no options, or need to do it for classing purposes.
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:27 PM   #23
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The only situation where you do something like this is when you have no options, or need to do it for classing purposes.
Yup. I would have gotten rear LCA's a long time ago if it didn't cost me 4 points in NASA's TT system. Managed to get -2 degrees in the rear just by lowering it, and not that much really. My car certainly isn't slammed or anything and I don't ever scrape.
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:59 PM   #24
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Great chart!
very useful.
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:58 AM   #25
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We will be using these on our Spec86 Cup car July 4th weekend at LRP. Will update with feedback after the race weekend.

-mike
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:33 AM   #26
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We will be using these on our Spec86 Cup car July 4th weekend at LRP. Will update with feedback after the race weekend.

-mike
You going to be running in TT as well that weekend? I'll be there for Saturday only, but I had a fun time competing against you and Rick at NJMP Lightning in April.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:39 AM   #27
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You going to be running in TT as well that weekend? I'll be there for Saturday only, but I had a fun time competing against you and Rick at NJMP Lightning in April.
Yup. We will run it in TT and also our project BRZ in TTD as well.

Mike
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