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Old 01-23-2015, 12:59 PM   #2255
Pkush
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Well, I got a question. Noob one at that. My car is stock right now, but I hate the fender gap and the way the stock wheels look (I got the STI ones). I like the wheels, but they're way too thin for my liking. Spacers don't sound like a good option.

So it's my DD, and I drive about 2k miles a month. The questions now comes. I want to lower it a little, and put some nicer, wider wheels to make it flush with the fender. I am looking at 18x8.75-18x9.5 with different offsets. My question is, for a DD that will MAYBE see a track one day (never been to one), what wheel width would I use and going with that, could I just get a bit thinner wheels (8.5 width or so) and springs, so I don't have to break the bank on coils? I know there's a wheel fit thread but some guys have coils, some don't etc etc. I'd prefer to get springs just because they're cheaper, but then which springs, and whats the max width/offset I can fit in there?

Thanks!
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:43 PM   #2256
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This is more of a wheel question, but I am running 18x8.5 +48 without any rubbing on the OEM spring perches. This is with the camber maxed out using bolts on the front. It is very close, but it clears.

I use this setup at the track, where I am a noob, and have been getting faster. By the end of this summer I expect I will move to coilovers so I can add some more camber.

If you just want a spring upgrade RCE yellows or Swifts are good options.
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:34 PM   #2257
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Originally Posted by Pkush View Post
Well, I got a question. Noob one at that. My car is stock right now, but I hate the fender gap and the way the stock wheels look (I got the STI ones). I like the wheels, but they're way too thin for my liking. Spacers don't sound like a good option.

So it's my DD, and I drive about 2k miles a month. The questions now comes. I want to lower it a little, and put some nicer, wider wheels to make it flush with the fender. I am looking at 18x8.75-18x9.5 with different offsets. My question is, for a DD that will MAYBE see a track one day (never been to one), what wheel width would I use and going with that, could I just get a bit thinner wheels (8.5 width or so) and springs, so I don't have to break the bank on coils? I know there's a wheel fit thread but some guys have coils, some don't etc etc. I'd prefer to get springs just because they're cheaper, but then which springs, and whats the max width/offset I can fit in there?

Thanks!
There's no functional reason IMO to go with 18x9.5" wide wheels for 99.9% of people. You're car will ride and handle better with 18x8.5's, or even 18x8. Yes it's tempting to go as wide as possible but it isn't always faster. And it can be a pain to get fitment right too.

- Andy
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:00 PM   #2258
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So finding wheels in 18x8.5 or 18.8 with a lower offset would be better for handling and would make it more flush with the fender. Killing two birds with one stone?
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Old 01-24-2015, 12:46 PM   #2259
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So finding wheels in 18x8.5 or 18.8 with a lower offset would be better for handling and would make it more flush with the fender. Killing two birds with one stone?
Yeah we ran 18x8 +38 offset and it was just about perfect. There are some pics in our build thread or on our facebook.

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Old 01-26-2015, 03:15 AM   #2260
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I have eibach sportline (-1.4") springs and would like to upgrade the shocks in a few months.

I also plan on going with SPL Lower Control Arms & Raceseng Cascam Plates

Would it be better to go with the Bilstein B6 or B8? and Why?
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:12 PM   #2261
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I have eibach sportline (-1.4") springs and would like to upgrade the shocks in a few months.

I also plan on going with SPL Lower Control Arms & Raceseng Cascam Plates

Would it be better to go with the Bilstein B6 or B8? and Why?
Bilstein B6 and B8 are internally very similar. The shortened rod length of the B8 allows you to accommodate more drop (>1") and shorter bump stops without the risk of your shock bottoming.

I'd go with B8's. Otherwise, you're on the right track for a robust/reliable upgrade from stock.
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:58 PM   #2262
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Daily driven hard! And autocross. I want to get rce clubsports and go down about 1.5 inches lower. But want to keep the car with its neutral characteristics. Im thinking of the 400 springs. Any advice in setting the car for a neutral handing as she is.
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Old 01-29-2015, 08:53 PM   #2263
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Hi guys, I want to know what do you think track junkies, I want to upgrade my stock suspension (essentially because i can't get my tire to worn well, not enough neg camber...)

I'm thinkin of either RCE T2 or TEIN monoflex

I would prefer tein because of the camber plate so it would be that less to buy,
I drive hard on street, I track each week of the summer 2-3 20 min session + few lap day per years, I don't care about street comfort.
budget: +- 2000-2500 USD (3000-3500 CAD with shipping & everythings....)

Thanks alot
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:54 PM   #2264
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Originally Posted by frankacura View Post
Hi guys, I want to know what do you think track junkies, I want to upgrade my stock suspension (essentially because i can't get my tire to worn well, not enough neg camber...)

I'm thinkin of either RCE T2 or TEIN monoflex

I would prefer tein because of the camber plate so it would be that less to buy,
I drive hard on street, I track each week of the summer 2-3 20 min session + few lap day per years, I don't care about street comfort.
budget: +- 2000-2500 USD (3000-3500 CAD with shipping & everythings....)

Thanks alot
You're asking to competing companies to tell you which of their products is better. As you're the target audience of both products, I'd say either could work well for you. The difference is going to be that RCE and CSG tune suspensions differently, you're going to have to figure out which you prefer for yourself as that's a questions that's much too subjective.

Even the camber plates is going to be subjective as many people who DD their cars prefer an OEM style strut mount as they make less noise and are less prone to wear.

There is one large difference though, the T2's are double adjustable.
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:24 AM   #2265
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That's on my mind too, I don't know yet how to dial adjust that for my pref. , what's the max camber we can get on RCE T2 on the slotted hole?
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Old 01-30-2015, 11:27 AM   #2266
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That's on my mind too, I don't know yet how to dial adjust that for my pref. , what's the max camber we can get on RCE T2 on the slotted hole?
With the camber adjustable bolt you can get from the dealer we got -2.65 in the front lowered 1 inch.

We can help with set-up. Feel free to give us a call to talk options.

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Old 01-30-2015, 01:32 PM   #2267
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Oh great more than I expected!!
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:19 PM   #2268
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I have an FR-S on eibach pro-plus kit (springs, and sway bars). One day I want coil-overs, but I have a kid in college, and t goes he second goes to college next year- so not in the budget now. My question regards steering feel. I put 17x9 on 245/40-17 tires on the car with the springs and swaybars at the same time. To me the steering is a little more vague, or soft feeling now. The car still handles miraculously, and even better. But, I would love to regain a little steering feel. Do the positive steering response bushings that add caster help with this once larger tires are introduced? I assume the larger tires are the cause. I have camber bolts for the front that the allignment shop didn't install because I had zero camber (I'm unhappy about that), and I am going to put SPC control arms on the back to reduce the -2.1 degrees I have back there. I want to get to around -1 front and rear if possible. Do you reccomend these camber settings for a DD/weekend ringer/occasional autocross car? Would some negative camber help with the soft/vague-ness of the steering? Should i do the positive steering response bushings such as those offered by Perrin and Whiteline. Please advise, and thanks for this thread!
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