Best exhaust with great power gains..

[KoolBRZ]

As I stated and proved above, you can get good power without removing all the cats. I have good tone, good MPG, and good torque. use your money saved to get an OFT and an intake. The Skunk2 doesn't require removing the bumper to change the filter, and has a lot more flow than just about anything out there.

Federal law states any change to the header, since it has a built-in cat, is illegal. So hang on to your old, stock header to use for passing DEQ. I'm making 178 HP with the stock front-pipe/cat. I don't really think I'm going to get better than that with an aftermarket cat-less front-pipe, since the exhaust flow is cooling/slowing down by that point. Save your money for an intake.

[Digitalanalog]

How the hell will a lower fd give you 22 more hp. Dude what the hell are you on when you type up a post?

[FirestormFRS]

Don't mess with that guy, he has torque cones in his header!

[Lunatic]

I also don't think a gear change will add HP at the wheels. I have a catless top speed header, catless 3" resonator Perrin, Crawford power blocks, cold air intake, and 4.88 rear end. Mine dyne-ed at 177 hp.

[ramiram1984]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

I also don't think a gear change will add HP at the wheels. I have a catless top speed header, catless 3" resonator Perrin, Crawford power blocks, cold air intake, and 4.88 rear end. Mine dyne-ed at 177 hp.

Lots of stuff and $ for only 177hp.
Damn

[jonbonazza]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

I also don't think a gear change will add HP at the wheels. I have a catless top speed header, catless 3" resonator Perrin, Crawford power blocks, cold air intake, and 4.88 rear end. Mine dyne-ed at 177 hp.

With all of that you should easily be at the 200whp mark... I would find another tuner.

[Apoc]

This thread is all kinds of dumb.

[pizza4breakfast]

I'm totally new to this - I just bought a 2013 FR-S (certified pre-owned, 3200 miles) and this is my first post. And I don't mean to threadjack.. but I'm curious about this stuff too.

I'm looking for cost effective mods that provide extra power without sacrificing mpg. I've been browsing this forum a lot, and I've decided on an Injen intake, but I'm not sure what else to do. Probably headers, right? Catted, I'd assume, as I'd like to keep this passable with the DEQ. And for all of this talk of tuning, that is all very new to me, and I know nothing about what tuning might entail...

This is my only car and my daily driver, and I'm putting 50+ miles on her per day. So I'm looking to have fun without blowing out my wallet, either from an upfront cost, or from fucking over my mpg.

What do you guy recommend? Thanks in advance. I'll be posting a lot on here, I'm sure.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by pizza4breakfast

I'm totally new to this - I just bought a 2013 FR-S (certified pre-owned, 3200 miles) and this is my first post. And I don't mean to threadjack.. but I'm curious about this stuff too.

I'm looking for cost effective mods that provide extra power without sacrificing mpg. I've been browsing this forum a lot, and I've decided on an Injen intake, but I'm not sure what else to do. Probably headers, right? Catted, I'd assume, as I'd like to keep this passable with the DEQ. And for all of this talk of tuning, that is all very new to me, and I know nothing about what tuning might entail...

This is my only car and my daily driver, and I'm putting 50+ miles on her per day. So I'm looking to have fun without blowing out my wallet, either from an upfront cost, or from fucking over my mpg.

What do you guy recommend? Thanks in advance. I'll be posting a lot on here, I'm sure.

Recomend you leave the intake stock, maybe add a performance drop in filter if anyhing.

Their is not much power in these cars without going boosted.

aprox wheel hp gains
A tune will net you maybe 10 hp on petrol
Tune plus catless header about 20 hp
tune for E85 plus catless header plus E85 fuel about 30 hp

the rest of exhaust components and intakes gain little extra power and intakes can interfere with mas air flow sensor calibration causing some issues, can be fixed in tune by you or by tuner though.

cheapest option would likely be openflash tablet plus open flash header combo just over $1000 if you fit header yourself. will net you about 85% or more of the possible naturally.
aspirated gains. even if you did rest of exhaust intake and custom dyno tune.

you get petrol ans e85 tunes for stock car and cars with catless el or uel header included, no lock or encrypted tunes.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

This is an A/T that normally dynos at about 157 HP and 135 ft/lbs of torque with all stock components. Once I get my 4.875 FD installed I expect to dyno test over 200 HP and 190 ft/lbs of torque with the added 19% mechanical advantage of a 4.875 FD.

That's not how dynos work... a properly configured dyno will show the same hp with both final drives. If anything you might actually get a bit lower reading with the shorter final drive because of how dynos work.

[skye67]

Originally Posted by wparsons

That's not how dynos work... a properly configured dyno will show the same hp with both final drives. If anything you might actually get a bit lower reading with the shorter fincal drive because of how dynos work.

Right! Don't get cought up in chasing HP. But more of the feel.
Gears add torque, which will make the car feel quicker. Header,tune, and everything else you add to our cars, just make them work better. Till you go FI.
My 5.7 Hemi truck vs my modded BRZ.....BRZ wins everytime do to the fun factor.

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by wparsons

That's not how dynos work... a properly configured dyno will show the same hp with both final drives. If anything you might actually get a bit lower reading with the shorter final drive because of how dynos work.

I specifically asked Wryann to use the same dyno settings as before, so I could see the effect of the added mechanical advantage,(not added power)the new FD would give me, since a dyno is much more accurate than my butt. I may have a sophisticated butt dyno for suspension, but I'm not so accurate for torque and horsepower.

If no other factors were in effect, I should see 33 more HP. Since I know other factors are affecting wheel HP, I'm very interested in knowing what the dyno shows. Wryann will send me the before and after dyno runs, and I'll be posting them here. Just from memory though, I think the before dyno showed 178 HP , and 168 ft/lbs of torque.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

I specifically asked Wryann to use the same dyno settings as before, so I could see the effect of the added mechanical advantage,(not added power)the new FD would give me, since a dyno is much more accurate than my butt. I may have a sophisticated butt dyno for suspension, but I'm not so accurate for torque and horsepower.

If no other factors were in effect, I should see 33 more HP. Since I know other factors are affecting wheel HP, I'm very interested in knowing what the dyno shows. Wryann will send me the before and after dyno runs, and I'll be posting them here. Just from memory though, I think the before dyno showed 178 HP , and 168 ft/lbs of torque.

Still no.

A dyno uses the gear ratio (transmission and final drive) when determining torque. The actual torque being applied to the dyno is wildly different in each gear, but if configured properly the reading will be very similar.

Unless you're asking the dyno operator to use the wrong gear ratio, you won't see an increase in hp/tq from the final drive. Depending on the dyno, that might not even be possible since the dyno knows engine RPM and wheel speed (or RPM if it bolts to the hubs), and can determine the gear ratio mathematically.

[pl1ght]

Originally Posted by pizza4breakfast

I'm totally new to this - I just bought a 2013 FR-S (certified pre-owned, 3200 miles) and this is my first post. And I don't mean to threadjack.. but I'm curious about this stuff too.

I'm looking for cost effective mods that provide extra power without sacrificing mpg. I've been browsing this forum a lot, and I've decided on an Injen intake, but I'm not sure what else to do. Probably headers, right? Catted, I'd assume, as I'd like to keep this passable with the DEQ. And for all of this talk of tuning, that is all very new to me, and I know nothing about what tuning might entail...

This is my only car and my daily driver, and I'm putting 50+ miles on her per day. So I'm looking to have fun without blowing out my wallet, either from an upfront cost, or from fucking over my mpg.

What do you guy recommend? Thanks in advance. I'll be posting a lot on here, I'm sure.

Catless Header, tune, OFT or otherwise. If your states inspections just plug up to ODB-II then you are fine going catless on the headers. Not loud at all if the rest of the exhaust is stock.