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Old 01-02-2015, 03:40 PM   #1989
Kido1986
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Originally Posted by jprice130 View Post
When I had those wheels and spacers, I used Gorilla spline drive lugs (closed end) and never had any issues (stock studs too). This was back when I ran C-Stock with r-comps and was changing my tires at every event. I still use those same Gorilla lugs with my 17x9 Rota Titans and I still haven't had any problems (knocks on wood).

I know my days of zero problems are numbered, but I'm very pleased with how the Gorilla lugs and stock studs have held out for me after numerous tire changes and autocrossing this car for 2.5 years.
These? [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-71623NBC-System-Chrome/dp/B001O0HM4C/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420227417&sr= 1-2&keywords=Gorilla+12mm+x+1.25"]Amazon.com: Gorilla Automotive 71623NBC "The System" Acorn Black Chrome Wheel Locks (12mm x 1.25 Thread Size) - For 5 Lug Wheels: Automotive[/ame]
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If you guys spot any riced frs/brz post them here just for laughs no hating please.
Isn't there already a thread like this? It's called aggressive wheels or summat...
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:46 PM   #1990
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Originally Posted by simpleisbest View Post
Stock lug nuts seem to have pretty soft threads. If you are constantly swapping out wheels, the threads seem to go bad pretty easily. If it gets too bad, it can even damage the stud's threads.

Switch to any conical type lug and things will easier.

Personally I go for the steel ones, as the aluminum ones tend to stretch and lose torque. Not worth the risk, imo.

If you want to get the best of the best, there's the Project Kics R40. I've used them and they are fairly lightweight and awesome!


I used to think the FRS/BRZ stud/lug problem was hearsay until it happened to me while changing to snow tires.

So is it a nut problem more than a stud problem?
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:58 PM   #1991
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I used to think the FRS/BRZ stud/lug problem was hearsay until it happened to me while changing to snow tires.

So is it a nut problem more than a stud problem?
My experience says its the lug nuts.
I change wheels roughly 50 times per year and my original studs are still good.

As for lug types, I try to keep things simple and just get ones that use either a 17mm or 19mm (I prefer 17mm) standard hex. Trying to search for your special lug key at an event or the fear that you will forget it when going for long distance event (where I would swap tires on-site) isn't worth it. (Street theft isn't on my list of concerns).

If you are daily driving the car on the wheels, then I would recommend a closed end type lug nut, as the studs can get pretty rusty when exposed to wet elements.
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:01 PM   #1992
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Those may work fine, but they're not the exact same ones I have. I couldn't find my lugs on Amazon, but I did find them on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-GORILLA-S...1015c7&vxp=mtr
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:14 PM   #1993
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The lug nut metal should be softer than the stud metal, but hand tightening and loosening shouldn't cause issue.

If you're swapping wheels 50 times a year, that's outside of normal usage life and it's probably time for ARP studs.
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:23 PM   #1994
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Yes, I have a set too. No clue where to buy them new because I got them used, but I think they look cool. I can't remember exact weight, but I think they're 17-18 lbs.

I like them because I don't have to run spacers like I do with my Koseis.
I can likely find you guys a dealer if these are available.

I'm going to call on it on Monday when Buddy Club is open, but these look like a fantastic option for the price...how heavy are they?

I like the way they look as well, available in gun metal, and white:
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Old 01-02-2015, 05:06 PM   #1995
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I can likely find you guys a dealer if these are available.

I'm going to call on it on Monday when Buddy Club is open, but these look like a fantastic option for the price...how heavy are they?

I like the way they look as well, available in gun metal, and white:
They are about 17lbs., but have the right size for Street.

Buddy Club only has the SF Challenge version available last I checked.
The SF Challenge has the rim strip. If they just had the basic version, I bet it would sell better.
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:19 PM   #1996
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The stock lug nuts are the issue, I had problems with the stock set up on my wrx and as soon as I switched to different lug nuts the problems disappeared (replaced 3-4 studs).

In the last 3 years I ran over 100 autocrosses events and swapped wheels from street to race and back to street for nearly every event without problems with the gorilla lugs and a biannual copper grease application. I recommend ditching the stock lug nuts to anyone who will listen.
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:15 AM   #1997
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THe stock lug nuts don't work with a whole lot of different aftermarket wheels so I don't think many of us are using them. I'll be looking into the Gorilla ones for sure though
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If you guys spot any riced frs/brz post them here just for laughs no hating please.
Isn't there already a thread like this? It's called aggressive wheels or summat...
C Street Build/Progress Questions about C Street Autocrossing?
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:20 AM   #1998
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I've aways used cheapo mutekis no problem. We can get them in every color known to man
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:24 PM   #1999
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My CGLOCK came in! Anyone else use these?
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:33 AM   #2000
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I just use the seatbelt lock trick. Doing anything to keep you strapped in to your seat is a huge benefit though. You'll love it.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:50 PM   #2001
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So doing a sound tube delete is no good by the rules I'm guessing, but what's everyone's take on whether someone would protest at a local event?
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:53 PM   #2002
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I wouldn't worry about it. But I just plugged mine with the 12v plug from the glove compartment and left all the hoses in place.
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