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Old 12-17-2014, 11:32 PM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the snake View Post
I'll be switching to 30wt Motul or Redline on my next change.
Red Line has been tested to stay in grade better than just about anything else on the market. Temperature and normal use degrade most oils and I'm sure many that are monitoring oil pressures have seen this.
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Old 12-18-2014, 03:26 AM   #324
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any solution on those rockers yet?
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:50 AM   #325
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12 track days on 10w30 torco. No problems yet, even without the Element secret oiling mods.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:36 AM   #326
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any solution on those rockers yet?
Yeah we just have to secure the axles as part of the engine build or headwork. The inconsistent manufacturing of the swedge is the issue. If the engine or heads are apart it's not worthe taking a chance as a few people had the same this happen at OEM RPM.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:42 AM   #327
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12 track days on 10w30 torco. No problems yet, even without the Element secret oiling mods.
Congratulations. Just keep in mind the requirement for more oil pressure is based on HP, RPM, and oil temperature. What works for 330 whp or less and 7 RPM isn't adequate for 400+ whp and 9k rpm when oil temperature creeps up.

I won a national championship on a stock motor and I've shared my advice here also about that in terms of power/rpm limits and what oil we used.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:58 AM   #328
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Its all good stuff.

We havent been in the 330 range for a while, but all the same.

We are also trying to find ways to improve the stock system until our dry sump gets finished.

I do believe that using something other than a 0W/xx will significantly improve things.

D



Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post
Congratulations. Just keep in mind the requirement for more oil pressure is based on HP, RPM, and oil temperature. What works for 330 whp or less and 7 RPM isn't adequate for 400+ whp and 9k rpm when oil temperature creeps up.

I won a national championship on a stock motor and I've shared my advice here also about that in terms of power/rpm limits and what oil we used.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:50 AM   #329
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I've started back up with a dry sump also at 400 whp and 9k rpm was OK with all the oiling mods. Next season we are running much more power.

At this point I just can't decide if I want to go through the trouble and cost to retain the AC.
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:44 PM   #330
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Im currently looking at RV 12VDC AC comprssors
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Old 12-18-2014, 03:10 PM   #331
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Toyota Prius has an electric AC compressor fwiw.
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Old 12-18-2014, 03:50 PM   #332
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Im literally lookng for a unit to put in the trunk and take out at the track
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Old 12-18-2014, 03:52 PM   #333
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Im literally lookng for a unit to put in the trunk and take out at the track
Is that a real product? What I mean is has that been done before? Modular quick release hvac.
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Old 12-18-2014, 04:23 PM   #334
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Trunk mounted AC is so not JDM LOL! Highly not recommended as you need to exhaust the hot AC air and if you cut a hole in the trunk you're going to get exhaust in the car. Just be careful if you do that. I run a rear mounted radiator in the trunk of my STi race car and you have to seal it so you don't get choked out.

There is a way to keep the AC and still mount the dry sump pump but it's looking like to do so would cost an extra 4 digits. Normally ditching the AC for a dry sump or external oil pump isn't a big deal as most that buy those products are racers. The FRS/BRZ can't run high power even in street trim without more oil pressure than the OEM system can deliver. I guess however that is cheaper than an engine build
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:04 PM   #335
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http://etischer.com/awdev/aircon.html

It'll probably fit in the front, too.
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:46 PM   #336
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http://etischer.com/awdev/aircon.html

It'll probably fit in the front, too.
That's a little too much work to still have to shell out $1800! You can keep the OEM AC in place for that kind of money (but not much less). The trick really is that you have to run a different intake manifold so you can still mount the oil pump in the front of the motor.

I'm on the fence really about making the effort to keep the AC. All but one dry sump we've ever sold was for dedicated race cars but the FRS could be different. It's so disgustingly hot here in DC in the summers and frankly I couldn't deal with it while doing R&D on this car. I ripped my dash back out and reinstalled my heater core and AC. LOL!



You can buy the Toyota Prius AC pump for around $400 but I haven't researched how much power that baby takes.
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