Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by JZA

Hi all,
I am a new FRS owner. I'd like to know a recommended alignment for a stock FRS with TRD springs. If I am going to get the alignment bolts and plates, where should i start with alignment?

Thanks for your input!

What are you doing with it?

[JZA]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

What are you doing with it?

Sorry. I meant tracking the car. Mostly in Norcal and maybe a few times in SoCal in the future.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by JZA

Sorry. I meant tracking the car. Mostly in Norcal and maybe a few times in SoCal in the future.

You'll need camber plates and rear lower control arms.

Try starting at -2.4 all around, with 1/16" total toe-in on both axles.

[OkieSnuffBox]

I don't see anything mentioned about the Ground Control setup, has anyone used it? I had very good luck with my custom valved Koni's from Ground Control on two different E30s (84-91 BMW 3 series).

$2100 gets you a full setup with camber plates.


If I had the $3500-4000 for a setup, I'd go straight to MCS or HVT w/ Vorshlag CC plates and call it a day. Especially since you can buy a set of MCS for $2800 from Stuart Maxcy with custom rates and valving.

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Campo

That's not a bad idea, but I'm afraid that like you, I'll want to make changes in the future that a single adjustable won't allow. I know I'm not good enough yet, but the idea is to grow as a driver and car together. It sounds like you're doin great!
I wish I had the points available for Hoosiers, but we're starting with a 6 point car because it's auto. Technically it was a 10 point car when we drove it off the lot because we have a factory spoiler that adds 4 points too, but we'll probably remove that in favor of a diffuser or just nothing or a big wing that's worth the points.


Sent from Tapatalk

EDIT: Removed incorrect information

[enivid]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

.

You'll also probably want rear LCAs for camber adjustment in the back, and a LSD to put the power down (and promote controllable rotation, as per your preference, beyond what the spring rates do).

Why did you reconfigure your lsd? That did you change?

[THEmailman]

Originally Posted by ja1217

Well, I have good news for you - You do have enough points to run hoosiers! I'm 99% sure that you don't need to take any points for the automatic. In the rules you only have to take points if you "added" paddle shifters to the automatic, as in they weren't available from the manufacturer. Same thing with the LSD. Feel free to post the question up on the NASA TT forums though to be 100% sure.

So your car should be starting out with just +4 for the OEM wing, which I would remove. Also, I would make the diffuser a pretty low priority and only use it if you happen to have 2 points laying around after all your other mods. Also, I wouldn't run any wider than a 225 Hoosier R7, which in reality is as wide as most 245 street tires and this way it will only cost you 6 points.

The manual transmission is considered the base, thus the automatic with the paddle shifters is considered an addition. Its in the exact same way way with the oem spoiler example you mentioned. If it is not the domestic base trim than ot take points. Basically, anything above the most bare bones car in non-btm.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by enivid

Why did you reconfigure your lsd? That did you change?

Wanted/needed more lockup.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

I don't see anything mentioned about the Ground Control setup, has anyone used it? I had very good luck with my custom valved Koni's from Ground Control on two different E30s (84-91 BMW 3 series).

$2100 gets you a full setup with camber plates.


If I had the $3500-4000 for a setup, I'd go straight to MCS or HVT w/ Vorshlag CC plates and call it a day. Especially since you can buy a set of MCS for $2800 from Stuart Maxcy with custom rates and valving.

"custom" doesn't mean "better". Unless someone's already done the footwork with a particular setup, it just means custom.

GC's stuff had a pretty bad reception in 2012 for performance use; strut knowledge from other strut platforms, including the WRX, does not carry over to this platform.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

"custom" doesn't mean "better". Unless someone's already done the footwork with a particular setup, it just means custom.

GC's stuff had a pretty bad reception in 2012 for performance use; strut knowledge from other strut platforms, including the WRX, does not carry over to this platform.

True, but valving to at least the spring rate and specific motion ratio is better than just the generic stuff.


Just trying to keep the suspension in the reasonable price range since it will only occasionally see HPDE/Auto-X and I'm not trying to be competitive in Auto-X or TT or anything like that.


Just have some fun.

[enivid]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Wanted/needed more lockup.

This recommended for all of us? Will CSG configure it before sending it out for some extra $$$?

[buddy32]

Originally Posted by enivid

This recommended for all of us? Will CSG configure it before sending it out for some extra $$$?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68310

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by enivid

This recommended for all of us? Will CSG configure it before sending it out for some extra $$$?

We haven't done enough testing with the OSG unit yet to determine if we want to offer a CSG-spec differential yet. Custom configuration on a OSG starts at $150, and goes up, depending on the labor and parts involved.

For the Cusco units, we know exactly how to set it up based on driving style and setup; we have much more experience with these. The Cusco unit also happens to be cheaper as well. Currently, we configure the Cusco unit for free if the requested/recommended changes are within the capability of the LSD without needing to swap parts.

[Campo]

Originally Posted by ja1217

Well, I have good news for you - You do have enough points to run hoosiers! I'm 99% sure that you don't need to take any points for the automatic. In the rules you only have to take points if you "added" paddle shifters to the automatic, as in they weren't available from the manufacturer. Same thing with the LSD. Feel free to post the question up on the NASA TT forums though to be 100% sure.

So your car should be starting out with just +4 for the OEM wing, which I would remove. Also, I would make the diffuser a pretty low priority and only use it if you happen to have 2 points laying around after all your other mods. Also, I wouldn't run any wider than a 225 Hoosier R7, which in reality is as wide as most 245 street tires and this way it will only cost you 6 points.

Unfortunately, I already asked the NASA TT National Director about the paddles, and he said I had to take the +3. He said he had more bad news about the auto: I have to take +3 for non-standard gear ratios...


Makes getting this little sucker competitive a tad challenging - but that's what's so fun!


Yeah, the diffuser is definitely at the bottom of the list. Good thoughts on the Hoosiers though, thanks!

Originally Posted by THEmailman

The manual transmission is considered the base, thus the automatic with the paddle shifters is considered an addition. Its in the exact same way way with the oem spoiler example you mentioned. If it is not the domestic base trim than ot take points. Basically, anything above the most bare bones car in non-btm.

Yeah, and +3 for the gear ratios in the auto...


I'm not totally familiar with the rules around dyno reclassing, but might it be worthwhile to ask after I actually start competing (again, this is like 2016 I'm thinking)? The stock auto dynos around 163 at the wheels as far as I've seen. I'm guessing that with my e85 tune I'm maybe 185-195 at the wheels. I've done zero weight reduction yet and no dyno yet, so I'm not 100% sure where my lb/hp ratio is, but I might benefit from a dyno reclass, no?