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#1 |
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Please help choose canyon driving suspension
Hello all! I am looking to upgrade my suspension, and kind of stock with choosing between two options...
1:Stock strut with Swift sport spring, Racesang cam plate, SPL lower control arm. 2: RS*R Sport-I coilover with SPL Lower control arm. My need is that I LOVE canyon driving and I drive 8.3 miles of canyon road 3-5 times per week. I need to improve the grip, and ease of handling the car when going over a high speed bump. I do not want to mess with 2 way adjustable, so 1 way is good for me. I run 18*9.5 square set of wheel with street summer tires, no plan to use racing tires in the future. I might upgrade my front lip (or wing, depend on what I feel the car lack of later). My current power mods are only OFT 91 ounce stage 1 tune and KN drop in filter, no plan to spend big money to increase power. My question would be, which option suits me the best? Or should I go for something else? RS*R sport Racer maybe? Whats in your mind? Oh forgot, My budget is $2k - $2.5K not including the lower control arm and cam plate. Thanks!
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#2 |
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Why not include the budget of the cam plate into your coilover budget and look at a set of ohlins r/t?
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#4 |
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If you're driving hard in a canyon, you really should be hitting the track.
And, you don't want to skimp on suspension if you're on the roads I think you're on. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | Firestorm_86 (12-01-2014), wparsons (11-30-2014) |
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#5 | ||
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So what are you suggesting, Mike? |
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#6 |
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Before you start there I would:
1) Sub Frame bushing inserts (a must!!!) ($40) 2) Perrin Steering Lockdown (best Mod I have ever done on this car) ($80) 3) TRD Short Shifter (WAY quicker shifts, and still warrantied)($180) 4)Transmission and Differential Inserts ($30 and $53) For about $383 you will have a completely different car on those roads......and only after doing this would I even start looking at suspension systems.
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2013 lava trd exhaust, trd intake, trd short shifter, trd lowering springs, whiteline sub bushings, whiteline diff bushing, whiteline transmission bushing, eibach sway bars, perrin steering lockdown, tech shift springs, mtech shift knob
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#7 |
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#8 | |
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For your goals I would do a Bilstien and spring package or the isports. A set of $3000 dollar coils for canyon driving seems a bit much unless you have the money burning a hole in your pocket. Either of those two set ups will be a step up from stock which is already very capable. |
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#9 |
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looks like you got some of the best street tires they make. and i agree with some of the others, i would include all the camber adjustment stuff into your coilover price and go as high end as you can. the fact that a suspension company is recommending another companies coil over speaks loudly to me.
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#10 |
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#11 |
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Thanks for the guys who advice me to look for those additional mods to improve handling, I all definitely do some study on those parts!
Also Thanks Andy and Troek talk me back to Ohlins hah! Sounds like both Mike and Andy feel the springs on Ohlins is a problem, cuz I know that Andy changed their R/T springs to 8K square and felt much better. But if I really go for Ohlins, it will be on top of my budget and I wont be able to have more money to do mods on the springs.... But if I remembered right, Divd @CSG posted a comment on someone else's threat and said RS*R club Sports works like baby ohlins R/T, and the springs rate is 8K square. Now I think it is Ohlins vs RS*R |
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#12 |
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What tires are you running? 8k rates might be too much spring for the tires you plan to keep using. Being too stiff actually reduces mechanical grip unless you need the stiffness to control body motion from the grip your tires can produce.
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Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak... flickr |
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#13 | |
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Quote:
- Andy |
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#14 | ||
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My FR-S has a build thread!
(It's mostly full of Nissans) |
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