Question with adding a subwoofer

[DC2R]

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=twister_B00A8F4TAY"]Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure: Car Electronics[/ame]
Anyone fit this in their trunk? I'm coming from a 3000 type r in my Integra but couldn't fit the box and amp in trunk(also secretly didn't want 40 lbs of sub in the trunk)

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[labskaus]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

A 4 gauge fits quite nicely through the otherwise useless sound tube hole if anyone wants another path.

that is true, but then you have to put the cable in a terrible curve and the passenger can step on it ... not the best idea

[oldpueblo]

Originally Posted by DC2R

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure: Car Electronics
Anyone fit this in their trunk? I'm coming from a 3000 type r in my Integra but couldn't fit the box and amp in trunk(also secretly didn't want 40 lbs of sub in the trunk)

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure that's not going to fit properly. My Blaupunkt 10" barely fits, and I mean I had to take the mat out of the trunk for it to squeeze under the lip so that it could snug up to the back of the rear seat. This can help you:


http://www.cars101.com/subaru/brz/brz2013.html#dimensions


If I read that amazon page right, it's 15" tall. Now look at the height dimensions of the trunk:


I: height from floor to top of trunk 15". minimum height by rear seat opening 13.5"


My Blaupunkt is 13.3 inches, which is why it barely fit into 13.5. Maybe you could get it to sit in the middle of the trunk, but then it kind of kills all your trunk space. If you drop to the 10" you'll barely squeak in like I did (minus the cargo mat), but still have the same 300w RMS it looks like.


On a side note I was thinking the side dials/quick release/gain remote port look exactly like my Blaupunkt. Then I found this, so maybe they are the same.



http://www.ceoutlook.com/2012/07/11/...laupunkt-deal/

[labskaus]

This guy had the same sort of problem

http://www.isnichwahr.de/r27948698-s...-russland.html

[DC2R]

Thanks for info. Got a pic of sub in trunk? Did you have to leave the trunk mat out?

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[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by labskaus

that is true, but then you have to put the cable in a terrible curve and the passenger can step on it ... not the best idea

It's up pretty high. Worst case someone could touch it with their toe. I don't remember that much of a curve. The grommet is pretty flexible so the cable comes through at kind of an angle to begin with.

[oldpueblo]

Originally Posted by DC2R

Thanks for info. Got a pic of sub in trunk? Did you have to leave the trunk mat out?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

So far yes, but I haven't settled on how I want to permanently mount it yet. I would like to put the mat back in. Right now what's holding it in place is the fact that it's wedged, and it doesn't slide because I put three strips of velcro around it that stick to the floor, they all hold each other in place as well like a removable cage.




















As you can see there is a small gap behind the sub, sadly the angle of the rear seat is too sharp to fully back up against it. If I slid it more towards the back of the car it would have more roof clearance (if I'd wanted a larger sub), but then it'd intrude more into the useable space.

[Xonzo]

I went with a shallow mount 12" sub in a downfire box. I wrapped up a piece of mdf in enclosure carpet the same color as the box, and screwed it to the bottom so the sound bounces off of it instead of the bottom of the trunk. The result is a very nice sound without too much rattle. Here are the links to the sub, amp, and box, all of which I bought on amazon. Surprisingly enough, it sounds amazing. I have had several systems over the years, including JL Audio W6's. This is one of the better sounding ones for a fraction of the price that I spent on the JL. I also replaced the headunit with an iPad mini and all other speakers with Pioneer. I can post pics if wanted.


Amp: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D7500M-Class-D-Amplifier-Watts/dp/B0036W9QEK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1390414566&sr=8-4&keywords=pioneer+mono+amp"]Amazon.com: Pioneer GM-D7500M Class-D Mono Amplifier with 800 Watts Max. Power: Car Electronics[/ame]


Sub: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SW3001S4-12-Inch-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B001NFC6G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390414590&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+shallow+mount+12"]Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW3001S4 12-Inch Shallow Step Up S4 Subwoofer: Car Electronics[/ame]


Box: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/AWM-Ud-Sw120D-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Downfiring/dp/B0087N8IHO/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1390414675&sr=8-30&keywords=pioneer+shallow+12+box"]Amazon.com: AWM Pioneer Ud-Sw120D Shallow Series Subwoofer Enclosure (12", Downfiring) - Enclosures & Boxes: Car Electronics[/ame]

[DC2R]

Soooo it looks like it just BARELY fits with just the factory carpet and it sitting right in the middle of the trunk. Guess there's no hope trying to put the 10' off to the side...

[DC2R]

by tapping in to signal wires and splitting off to RCA can i run those directly into amp and just rely on the builtin crossover in amp or do i have to get a linout converter? I know we dont want to use the cable but runs from the amp to speakers(too powerful and will sound bad). How much power is going into the rear amp? Are these just low power signal wires?

[DC2R]

Went with the below two:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure: Car Electronics[/ame]
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B8EJYU/ref=cm_sw_su_dp"]Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW Adapts High Level Speaker to Low Level RCA Adapter: Car Electronics[/ame]
Tapped into the amplified wires coming front stock amp instead of signal wires as per crutchfield's advise. Ran positive through channel by door still. Ran remote level control through center console but haven't mounted it yet. Ran Negative to rear shock mounting bolt. Sounds awful but i only spent about 17 seconds tuning it.
..... site wants me to resize photos and I am lazy so here are the DropBox links:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m58bwn1jjt...2018.54.25.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r1d0kbbzlb...2020.34.52.jpg

[brz408]

Sorry for reviving this thread. I am getting ready to do a Sub and Amp install and I am hoping to get some help. I need RCA capability on the back of the stock BRZ headunit. I just bought a Audiotek AT-HL2 RCA connector. It came with this on the back side of it (see pic).

AudioTek AT-HL2:
A - Gray (Right +)
B - Gray/Black (Right -)
C - White (Left +)
D - White Black (Left -)
E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output)
H - Brown (Optional Ground)

Refering to this from a post above:
1 - Pink (looks orange?) - Left speaker +
2 - Blue - Right speaker +
3 - Light Green - Left signal +
4 - White - Right signal +
5 - Violet - Left speaker -
6 - Red - Right speaker -
8 - Green - remote signal (use for amp on/off wire)
9 - Yellow - Left Signal -
10 - Sky Blue - Right signal -


So far what I have:
A with 4
B with 10
C with 3
D with 9
E with ?
F with ?
G with ?
H with ?

Questions:

Where it says "right +" that means "right + signal" or "right + speaker" ?

E - I'm not sure on what to do here. I think this is the power, but not sure where to tap into for this.

F - can I just tap into an existing ground wire? Or does it have to be grounded independantly (requires me to buy ground wire with ground fork tip)

G I think this is N/A since I don't have an amp control

H I don't think this is need since it is optional and F will be grounded

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by brz408

I am getting ready to do a Sub and Amp install and I am hoping to get some help. I need RCA capability on the back of the stock BRZ headunit. I just bought a Audiotek AT-HL2 RCA connector. It came with this on the back side of it (see pic).

AudioTek AT-HL2:
A - Gray (Right +)
B - Gray/Black (Right -)
C - White (Left +)
D - White Black (Left -)
E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output)
H - Brown (Optional Ground)
...

The Audiotek AT-HL2 is a 2-channel LOC (Line Output Converter).

Wires A through F in your table are standard colors for aftermarket audio gear (see this guide at the12volt.com). Wire G is close (usually the proper color is BLUE/WHITE).

Colors 1-10 are from Spaceywilly's post here describing the car's 10-pin harness (factory wires) that is plugged into the small factory amp in the trunk. The OEM amp drives the door speakers.

If you want your RCA jacks at the back of the OEM HU (as you said), you would want to make your connections at the HU, not the OEM amp in the trunk.

In the trunk, you only have access to the HU's front speaker outputs (left/right "signal" +/- listed in Spaceywilly's post), and the OEM amp's outputs that it sends to the door speakers (left/right "speaker" +/- in Spaceywilly's post). You can also access the HU's +12V amp remote trigger signal ("remote signal").

If you were making your connections in the trunk, you would probably want to use the outputs from HU (inputs into the OEM amp), not the outputs from the OEM amp.

Behind the HU you'll have access to all 4 of the HU's speaker outputs, as well as the HU's amp trigger output, +12V, and ground.

Your "E" is indeed power for your Audiotek LOC. In the trunk, you would need to get that from the OEM amp's 6-pin connector (not listed in Spaceywilly's table, but shown on the factory wiring diagram he posted). Likewise for the AT-HL2's ground lead "F".

The LOC's "G" lead is a +12V remote trigger output. I couldn't find any docs or specs on the AT-HL2 (or even a site for the right Audiotek), but when a LOC requires power and ground and has a lead with a remote trigger output, that usually means it has a built-in circuit to detect sound on one its inputs and generate a +12V trigger output. That's intended mainly for OEM HUs that don't generate an amp trigger output.

However, since you have access to the OEM HU's own trigger signal (at either the HU or the OEM amp in the trunk), you really didn't need a LOC with that feature. If you want to use the AT-HL2 anyway, you can probably skip connecting its power and ground leads (E and F).

If you'll be using new amps that require an amp trigger, you do need to connect the HU's trigger output to your new amp's remote trigger input.

To make your connections behind the HU, you might find this harness helpful: 10- & 6-pin combined "breakout" harness. That will match colors A-E on the AT-HL2.

You can also use that breakout harness at the OEM amp. You would want to repin the wires, so that the colors make sense for the way the car's harnesses are pinned there (e.g., move BLACK to the correct pin for ground, YELLOW on +12V Battery, etc.). ADDED: See this thread: How to use the OEM amp Wiring

As you said, the AT-HL2's optional ground lead (BROWN wire) probably won't be needed. Some LOCs have that to combat noise or hum.

[brz408]

I do apologize if these are dumb questions. I have not attempted audio work in years.

Originally Posted by SVXdc

Colors 1-10 are from Spaceywilly's post here describing the car's 10-pin harness (factory wires) that is plugged into the small factory amp in the trunk. The OEM amp drives the door speakers.

Ok. I wasn't too sure if this was after any re-pinning, but I think I am clear on this now. Is the 10 pin connector the same on both sides; the back of the HU and input to the OEM amp?

Originally Posted by SVXdc

If you want your RCA jacks at the back of the OEM HU (as you said), you would want to make your connections at the HU, not the OEM amp in the trunk.

I assume that direct from the back of the HU it would be a "stronger" connection in terms of signal strength and also any wiring becoming undone.

Originally Posted by SVXdc

In the trunk, you only have access to the HU's front speaker outputs (left/right "signal" +/- listed in Spaceywilly's post), and the OEM amp's outputs that it sends to the door speakers (left/right "speaker" +/- in Spaceywilly's post). You can also access the HU's +12V amp remote trigger signal ("remote signal").

Even in the trunk it sounds like I have access to all A-G. Maybe I am missing something?

AudioTek AT-HL2:
A - Gray (Right +)
B - Gray/Black (Right -)
C - White (Left +)
D - White Black (Left -)
E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output)

Originally Posted by SVXdc

If you were making your connections in the trunk, you would probably want to use the outputs from HU (inputs into the OEM amp), not the outputs from the OEM amp.

In between the output from HU and input to the OEM amp is there anything that intercepts the signal? Or is it essentially the same thing as if I were tapping into from either side?

Originally Posted by SVXdc

Behind the HU you'll have access to all 4 of the HU's speaker outputs, as well as the HU's amp trigger output, +12V, and ground.

This sounds easier to me. I just need a wiring diagram. I assume that its the same as the input connector on the OEM amp? If not, can you point me in the right direction please.

Originally Posted by SVXdc

Your "E" is indeed power for your Audiotek LOC. In the trunk, you would need to get that from the OEM amp's 6-pin connector (not listed in Spaceywilly's table, but shown on the factory wiring diagram he posted). Likewise for the AT-HL2's ground lead "F".

So this Audiotek LOC requires its own power and grounding. On the back of the HU is there also a 6 pin connector that I can tap into? Or is it a different type of connector?

Originally Posted by SVXdc

The LOC's "G" lead is a +12V remote trigger output. I couldn't find any docs or specs on the AT-HL2 (or even a site for the right Audiotek), but when a LOC requires power and ground and has a lead with a remote trigger output, that usually means it has a built-in circuit to detect sound on one its inputs and generate a +12V trigger output. That's intended mainly for OEM HUs that don't generate an amp trigger output. However, since you have access to the OEM HU's own trigger signal (at either the HU or the OEM amp in the trunk), you really didn't need a LOC with that feature. If you want to use the AT-HL2 anyway, you can probably skip connecting its power and ground leads (E and F).

So I can skip connecting these (below)? I thought from the quote immediately above that I will need to power and ground the LOC. But then it sounds like the LOC that I have has additional features which I don't need b/c the amp already supplies that. So, I can actually skip E and F on my LOC. Correct? Maybe I misunderstood here.

E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output) (explained below)

Originally Posted by SVXdc

If you'll be using new amps that require an amp trigger, you do need to connect the HU's trigger output to your new amp's remote trigger input.

I'm using an older version Alpine amp (mrv-f352) for the time being. I want to get a mono amp smaller in size down the road. So I don't think I need to connect G for the time being correct?

Originally Posted by SVXdc

To make your connections behind the HU, you might find this harness helpful: 10- & 6-pin combined "breakout" harness. That will match colors A-E on the AT-HL2.

I'm trying to go no harness at this point. I am looking to splice and use butt connectors then crimp properly. Just want to get this out of the way this weekend.

Edit:

From Post #22:

Originally Posted by xcelir8brz

Here is the head unit pin outs:

10-pin power/speaker harness
1 2 - - 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

Code:
1 RF+ (SUBWOOFER)
2 LF+
3 +12V Accessory (AMPLIFIER)
4 +12V Battery/Constant
5 RF- (SUBWOOFER)
6 LF-
7 Ground
8 Power Antenna (provides power to Subaru's antenna booster amp)
9 [NC] {amp remote turn-on signal on Toyota HUs, not Subaru}
10 Illumination+

Audio Tek
A - Gray (Right +)
B - Gray/Black (Right -)
C - White (Left +)
D - White Black (Left -)
E - Yellow (12V Battery)
F - Black (Ground)
G - Blue (12V Remote Output)

I think I can connect like so from the back of the head unit:

1A
5B
2C
6D
4E
7F
G (not needed)