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#99 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
I ran 10 gauge for the RF 300x1. The panel along the door definitely won't fit gauge that huge. My 10 gauge just barely tucked under. There is a hole on the right side of the engine bay that you could use for that. I think I saw in another walkthrough or photos that it's an unused cover intended for aftermarket wiring or later factory accessories. I think it's actually that the chassis as built to be interchangeable for right or left side drive and that hole is probably for the main harness when the battery is on the right. 1500 is going to be massive overkill for this car and might blow those 10" woofers if you're not careful. I assume you've done car audio stuff in the past to go for that setup. Bass head? [ame]http://youtu.be/fnqtkcgGa78[/ame] |
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#100 | |
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10 Series Colorado
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#101 |
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Junior Member
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Infinity Basslink is an incredible addition to the factory stereo, I guess all it needed was a little bass after all.
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#102 | |
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Banned
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Quote:
should i wire it to the head unit? idk what to do
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#103 |
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is there a harness i can buy for the factory radio so i can plug in rca's?
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#104 | |
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Senior Member
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From a previous post above with image. I'm pretty sure I used the signal +/- for my Rockford Fosgate RCA adapter. Don't use the speaker +/-. That may be your problem as the amp will be trying to send varying signals to the different speakers for stereo or surround sound. (1 is at the bottom left of the connector in the photo, 10 is the top right) 1 - Pink (looks orange?) - Left speaker + 2 - Blue - Right speaker + 3 - Light Green - Left signal + 4 - White - Right signal + 5 - Violet - Left speaker - 6 - Red - Right speaker - 8 - Green - remote signal (use for amp on/off wire) 9 - Yellow - Left Signal - 10 - Sky Blue - Right signal - |
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#105 |
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Frosty Carrot
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As Kujlka said, you'll want to use #3, 4, 9, & 10 for audio.
Which amp are you using? Some amps may not like balanced signals, or may not have a sufficient range of sensitivity. If your amp is unhappy, there's a ghetto solution and a proper solution. Ghetto solution: Not every source (headunit) will let you do it... but you can ground pins # 9 & 10. This changes the reference from a "float" to a "ground" and you wire pins #3 & 4 to the center pin of the RCAs. This will induce some noise (may or may not be a significant amount). Most automotive amplifier suppliers have to run validation testing to prove that their product will not only continue running, but will send a sufficiently clean signal on the un-grounded line. Proper solution: Transformers! You can convert between balanced and unbalanced signals using inductive coupling. Plenty of products will do that (each with varying degrees of ground isolation). The Audiocontrol unit mentioned above should do well or something like the EDCOR S2S150t/150 (LINK). Just make sure that the input and output impedance are appropriate so that you deliver the proper signal level. I don't know the proper impedances, but I'm sure that we're not the first people on the internet to tackle this issue.
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#106 |
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yea i checked the connections and cant find a problem...
i guess i will have an audio shop do it..... how much should it be just to run rca from the headunit? im not trying to spend 100 on just that |
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#107 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
I haven't tried it but it would seem to fit: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207017...r#overview-tab
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#110 |
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![]() It is a AWG4 but there is still some room for more. Just a small cut and afterwards sealed it with some butyl
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#111 |
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Senior Member
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#112 |
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Senior Member
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A 4 gauge fits quite nicely through the otherwise useless sound tube hole if anyone wants another path.
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