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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#43 |
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A.K.A. Starlord
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As with you, I plan on keeping this car a long time, so I don't want to be doing anything stupid. So it's as I suspected; I'm asking the synchros to do too much. In that case, double clutching should solve the problem, right? Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, clutch in, 1st gear, profit?
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#44 | |
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Easy-peezy. Slips in like butta. |
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#45 | |
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not playing cards
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#46 |
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Mine behaves exactly like yours. I dont like going into 2nd gear under 10mph because it lugs the engine too much. just hit 8k miles.
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2014 WRB BRZ
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#47 |
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not playing cards
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#48 |
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interdasting. I'll try that out, thanks.
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#49 | |
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Banned
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I have always wondered what happens during a double clutch, so lets work through it.
Lets say you are at 3000 RPM in 4th to downshift to 3rd you: A- Depress the clutch: this decouples the engine from the trans move gear from 4th to neutral: slider ring decoupled final drive from input shaft. The input shaft is now spinning down under friction (was just at 3000 RPM input). B- While shifting out of gear you started to bring the engine revs UP in anticipation of the shift. C- You release the clutch: this recouples the engine to the trans input shaft so you are bringing the shaft up to whatever speed the engine is at you continue to raise the engine (and input shaft up in RPM) while in neutral. D- Now you depress the clutch again decoupling the engine & input shaft. E- Now you move the slider into 3rd gear where the synchros guarantee input shaft at ~4000 RPM before engagement. F- Now you release the clutch and are in 3rd at 4000 RPM Now lets work through a regular shift: You are at 3000 RPM in 4th to downshift to 3rd you: A- Depress the clutch: this decouples the engine from the trans move gear from 4th to neutral: slider ring decoupled final drive from input shaft. The input shaft is now spinning down under friction (was just at 3000 RPM input). B- While shifting out of gear you started to bring the engine revs UP in anticipation of the shift. C - you move the shift lever to 3rd and the sychros bring the input shaft speed up to match the speed of the 3rd gear (4000 RPM). D- Now you release the clutch and are in 3rd at 4000 RPM I just have a hard time believing, that a human can negotiate all of the above in the split second that I can perform a "regular" downshift. In fact I think I can demonstrate a downshift with no clutch about the same speed as a double clutch. I have a theory that people who are really in tune with their car do not even disengage the clutch all the way during every shift, but dont even realize it until the rare time where you grind and wonder "what was up with that...." Not only do I not get the theory behind the double clutch, but I have tried it, and I see no advantage whatsoever except to make me shift slower which makes it smoother. That is the same effect as just shifting slower without double clutching. So I can see a slight advantage where there is slightly less wear on the synchros. If you are so worried about your synchros that you will use an antiquate driving technique, then just do the whole trans a favor and dont drive so much. And all of the examples above about having trouble downshifting into 1st - it's like the doctor says "if it hurts when you do that, stop doing that". In the parts diagram for the trans, 1st gear is the ONLY gear that has a part called a "1st gear lockout". I wonder what that is for? Maybe to make it hard to downshift to first because they dont what you to do that. I never see a need to downshift to 1st. If the car is even moving at all, I can get going again in 2nd without bogging much. Quote:
I have a method to reduce wear on your tires: Every time you stop it with hot tires, put it up on jackstands
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#50 | ||
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I posted a video on the preceding page. Watch at least the first 10-12 minutes of it. It will show you what's happening inside the transmission. I like this vid in particular because it does a great job of explaining how the synchronizer rings work. |
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#51 | ||
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Stole my avy from zGrinch
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Just don't force it in gear (like the whole first gear and slow speed discussion) and you'll be fine. Now, back to the topic of the OP's post - I think this car would be a piece of cake to learn on. This is my fourth manual transmission vehicle and the second easiest to drive after the Miata. Light clutch, easy to modulate, good feel.
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#52 |
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A.K.A. Starlord
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I disagree with the whole "I--don't-think-you-should-use-first-unless-stopped" thing. Quite frankly, yes, you can use second even from a standstill, but it really sucks. Say what you want but the engine does bog down and lug at that speed, and it also sounds like a tractor. I want to be able to shift into 1st when I'm rolling up on a stop sign at 5 MPH without having to come to a complete stop BEFORE I can slot it into gear.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Stang70Fastback For This Useful Post: | JB86'd (11-14-2014) |
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#53 | ||||
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not playing cards
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I can downshift faster without the clutch than just shifting normally but that doesn't make it a good practice. ...unless I'm turning a hot lap. Quote:
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#54 |
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I realized after posting that the question was a bit vague, but the other guy seemed to get it. What I mean was "when skipping gears downshifting, can you simply go straight to the lower gear or is it recommended to double clutch?" Basically my real world example was 6th to 3rd, because I seem to find myself doing that every few days.
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#55 |
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A.K.A. Starlord
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You can skip as many gears as you want if you properly rev match. Just adds 0.0001 extra wear to the synchros. If you go straight from 6th to 3rd without matching engine speed or slowing down a lot and just slam it into gear you risk locking the rear wheels, but that's about it (obviously assuming you aren't going into 3rd at a high-enough speed to over-rev it.)
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#56 |
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