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Old 11-08-2014, 04:36 PM   #15
Decay107
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Ok so a few takeaways from this morning as well as a few recommendations for any next revisions from the folks at Grimmspeed.

First off the intake fits with the mocal takeoff plate



But there is contact with the oil cooler lines on startup I have a piece of tape in place to monitor wear over the next couple of weeks. If it's an issue I'll probably window the intake box.



Channel my inner Clarkson



Or most likely take a dremel to the stock oil cap to buy me a few degrees of rotation (I'm maxed out right now)



I would recommend for future iterations the Grimmspeed move the top wall of the box in by 1/2 inches. This should not change the form/function of the box, but will buy a much larger clearence for oil coolers and the the stock temp sender (mine is close as well)

Pro tip for everybody installing this, it's way easier to measure 0.75" from the end of the filter tube and make a mark than it is to measure from the MAF block. I would recommend there be a mark/stop on future revisions



Cheers,
-Doug

Last edited by Decay107; 11-09-2014 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:58 PM   #16
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Doug, thanks a ton for the pictures and the feedback! We'll look into addressing your points on future revisions!

It fits though, which is fantastic news!

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Old 11-10-2014, 11:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decay107 View Post
Pro tip for everybody installing this, it's way easier to measure 0.75" from the end of the filter tube and make a mark than it is to measure from the MAF block. I would recommend there be a mark/stop on future revisions



Cheers,
-Doug
Hey Doug, thanks for the confirmation on the oil cooler fit! In the future we may add a little more space back there, but a half inch might be too much. Our CFD showed that the area back behind the filter played a pretty big role in air distribution around the filter. We'll look into how much clearance we can make without losing performance!

The .75in from the front of the air straightener recommendation might have worked for you, but may not be a good "one size fits all" recommendation. Since these are manufactured by hand right here, and multipiece, there is a certain amount of variation. I measured many intakes here, and the variance I saw was about .05in, and in the range of .92in to .87in from the air straightener (but none were as short as .75in, but being further away from the MAF is better than being too close, so you're good!), and this is why we just recommend measuring from the edge of the MAF flange. We'll definitely look into how to make a positive stop for the filter to simplify this in the future.

Thanks for the fitment verification and for the feedback, it really helps us make our stuff better!

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Old 11-10-2014, 12:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed View Post

The .75in from the front of the air straightener recommendation might have worked for you, but may not be a good "one size fits all" recommendation. Since these are manufactured by hand right here, and multipiece, there is a certain amount of variation. I measured many intakes here, and the variance I saw was about .05in, and in the range of .92in to .87in from the air straightener (but none were as short as .75in, but being further away from the MAF is better than being too close, so you're good!), and this is why we just recommend measuring from the edge of the MAF flange. We'll definitely look into how to make a positive stop for the filter to simplify this in the future.

Thanks for the fitment verification and for the feedback, it really helps us make our stuff better!

Chase
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Hmm, that's interesting. I'm almost positive I measured 1.76 inches from the maf flange to the end of the tube. Might have to go back in and look again.
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Old 11-11-2014, 03:02 PM   #19
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What's the point of resetting the ECU? Seems odd to have an optional step like that in there.
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Old 11-11-2014, 04:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Hmm, that's interesting. I'm almost positive I measured 1.76 inches from the maf flange to the end of the tube. Might have to go back in and look again.
Make sure you're measuring from the hard edge of the MAF flange, and not the weld. Based on your picture, if there is .75in from the air straightener to your mark, then it looks like there is about a full inch to the edge of the weld. But like I said being further forward like you are is totally fine, it's when you push the filter on too far that the tube sticks into the venturi on the filter, and starts making it less effective.

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What's the point of resetting the ECU? Seems odd to have an optional step like that in there.
Resetting the ECU gives the ECU a baseline from which to learn all of the new values from the intake (stft, ltft, maf V, etc). You don't necessarily need to reset the ECU though because it does learn FAST. However, it's just nice to start again from square one because you never know what values your ECU has learned from the stock intake, and if they might not play the best with our intake initially. This is why we've made the step optional, but it's always a good idea.

Resetting the ECU is fast, and the only negative to it is that if you don't go through the "pedal stomping procedure" we have laid out, your throttle response won't be the best at first until you've gone to wide open throttle a few times by driving.

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Old 11-11-2014, 05:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed View Post
Make sure you're measuring from the hard edge of the MAF flange, and not the weld. Based on your picture, if there is .75in from the air straightener to your mark, then it looks like there is about a full inch to the edge of the weld. But like I said being further forward like you are is totally fine, it's when you push the filter on too far that the tube sticks into the venturi on the filter, and starts making it less effective.



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Mr Mitutoyo disagrees

1.77 from flange


1.57 from weld




Also sadly, it looks like the intake isn't quite as compatible with oil coolers as I thought. Wore through the tape after after about 10 minutes of moderately hard street driving

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Old 11-11-2014, 05:54 PM   #22
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Mr. Mitutoyo wins every time

Sad to see the oil cooler is making contact. Like I said before we'll look into potentially updating the airbox if it doesn't affect performance negatively. But for now what happened to your Clarkson spirit! That's nothing the "pound-o-meter" precision adjustment tool can't fix :P

Art told me he talked to you on the phone, and I don't know if he was able to talk to Matt yet to see what we can do for you, but we're working on it!

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Old 11-11-2014, 07:08 PM   #23
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Pound-o-meter is still on the table, just need to figure out worst case scenario engine rotation (basically when I'm at the 200 ft marker in turn 1 at PIR, downshift to third and miss my rev match). God, I wish I wish my 1000 FPS camera fit under the hood of my car so I could get something like this at a track and see what kind of clearance the FA20 REALLY has.



Also wanted to make sure you cats didn't want to get your hands on it before I made any permanent changes.

Last edited by Decay107; 11-11-2014 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 11-11-2014, 10:03 PM   #24
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I tried installing and re-installing the main opening gasket and it looks horrible. Both with the favoring side out OR in, it doesn't look as good as everyone's pictures... (if anything, it didn't really seem to favor any side and would get pulled/pinched in different places.)
I don't know what I'm doing wrong!
I'm sure it'll be fine but it's bugging the hell out of me.

I guess i'll take it all apart again tomorrow... hopefully without ripping it.

If there is any way, I would even pay for another gasket!
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Old 11-11-2014, 10:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Struckbylitenin View Post
I tried installing and re-installing the main opening gasket and it looks horrible. Both with the favoring side out OR in, it doesn't look as good as everyone's pictures... (if anything, it didn't really seem to favor any side and would get pulled/pinched in different places.)
I don't know what I'm doing wrong!
I'm sure it'll be fine but it's bugging the hell out of me.

I guess i'll take it all apart again tomorrow... hopefully without ripping it.

If there is any way, I would even pay for another gasket!
When i installed mine, I pushed the gasket out in all the pinched areas with a screwdriver from inside the box. That was the only was I could get it even all around.
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Old 11-11-2014, 11:21 PM   #26
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One thing I found during installation is when I torqued up the bolts the go in the rubber bushes it deformed the shape of the box slightly so that it was difficult to align the lid properly. I had to loosen off the two bolts, attached the lid and re-tightened the bolts. Not a big deal just something to note.
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:34 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Struckbylitenin View Post
I tried installing and re-installing the main opening gasket and it looks horrible. Both with the favoring side out OR in, it doesn't look as good as everyone's pictures... (if anything, it didn't really seem to favor any side and would get pulled/pinched in different places.)
I don't know what I'm doing wrong!
I'm sure it'll be fine but it's bugging the hell out of me.

I guess i'll take it all apart again tomorrow... hopefully without ripping it.

If there is any way, I would even pay for another gasket!
Let us know! It does take some finesse. If you do need another set of gaskets at any point, we'd be happy to work with you on that. I know that somebody else needed an extra set earlier today, actually. Since we manufacture our own products locally, we've almost always got spares of the bits and pieces around for just these situations!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Decay107 View Post
When i installed mine, I pushed the gasket out in all the pinched areas with a screwdriver from inside the box. That was the only was I could get it even all around.
That's a good tip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turdinator View Post
One thing I found during installation is when I torqued up the bolts the go in the rubber bushes it deformed the shape of the box slightly so that it was difficult to align the lid properly. I had to loosen off the two bolts, attached the lid and re-tightened the bolts. Not a big deal just something to note.
That's also a great tip. If you have any difficulty aligning the bolts for the lid, remove/loosen the two bolts that mount the airbox to the chassis!

Matt Beenen
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:16 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Struckbylitenin View Post
I tried installing and re-installing the main opening gasket and it looks horrible. Both with the favoring side out OR in, it doesn't look as good as everyone's pictures... (if anything, it didn't really seem to favor any side and would get pulled/pinched in different places.)
I don't know what I'm doing wrong!
I'm sure it'll be fine but it's bugging the hell out of me.

I guess i'll take it all apart again tomorrow... hopefully without ripping it.

If there is any way, I would even pay for another gasket!
The trick I use is to put the airbox in place with the gasket favoring out but NOT installing any of the bolts to the chassis yet. Then I push the snorkel in as far as it goes into the box, and use my fingers on the inside of the box and go around the edges to make sure nothing is snagged. Then I install the box to chassis bolts, which usually pulls the snorkel out a little bit. I then recheck the seal INSIDE the box. This should help you get a perfect seal, and realistically in under 1 minute.

And like Matt said, if you need new gasket contact us!

Chase
Engineering
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