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#141 |
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not playing cards
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#142 |
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not playing cards
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All, I'm thinking let's keep peer review discussion on this thread for now. Not sure how that will work out in the long run. Here's the DIY in progress.
DIY - Swap clutch slave for improved feel and control |
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#143 |
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not playing cards
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All, ask me some noob questions so I don't overlook them in the DIY - things that would keep you from attempting the work.
As I said earlier, I'm trying to think like a beginner. Should I include a little blurb on righty-tighty-lefty-loosy? Last edited by Ultramaroon; 11-11-2014 at 01:11 AM. |
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#144 |
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Senior Member
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What's a clutch?
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Andrew025 For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (11-11-2014) |
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#145 |
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Senior Member
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I think that may be a little too basic lol! I think anyone going to do this mod is going to have some mechanical aptitude, but I guess it wouldn't hurt? :P I'm mainly unfamiliar with the bleeding process and the precautionary measures needed.
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2014 Ultramarine Scion FR-S 2000 Integra LS - SOLD ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Phantobe For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (11-11-2014) |
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#146 |
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not playing cards
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#147 |
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not playing cards
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DIY is finished. Go tear it up!
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#148 |
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So anyone that has completed this I have a few questions. 1st the clutch pedal has a dead spot now up top. Does that mean I should move it towards the floor more? Next I noticed that sometimes now the pedal doesnt come all the way back. Normal? Last how do you test to make sure the clutch is fully released when you let go of the pedal? Do you just drive it and see if the clutch smells?
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#149 |
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In the olden days, you adjusted that "dead" pedal travel at the top to 1/2'' and called it a day.
IMO there's too much dead pedal, resulting in the clutch not being actuated enough, which causes the hard to engage 1st. If you have the 1/2'' of deadband, you shouldn't notice the pedal not returning fully. A soft spring from the hardware (like for a screen door) store hooked to the pedal will have it returning fully, with no difference in feel. IMO a LOT of the complaints of hard to engage 1st and creeping in 1st is due to improper adjustment. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mike the snake For This Useful Post: | 37 (11-18-2014), Ultramaroon (11-18-2014) |
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#150 | |
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degrees
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Quote:
It sounds like your pedal height and master cylinder piston rod needs adjusted so take care of those first. Agreed on both points. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 37 For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (11-18-2014) |
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#151 |
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Maybe for you one of these??????
Hey, how the hell did I even know that??????????????????????
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | Andrew025 (11-20-2014) |
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#152 | |
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not playing cards
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Quote:
I think this might be due to the assist spring but would like to hear more details. Is that still installed? |
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#153 |
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so there are times when I have to pull the pedal back up. I do have the assist spring still. It only happens like at most 2 times per drive.
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#154 | |
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not playing cards
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Quote:
That assist spring is on an overcenter cam so if you have the pedal adjusted really low I could see it interfering with return at the top. That's not good because that also means the throwout bearing is engaged the whole time. There's a valve in the master cylinder which opens when it reaches the end of its travel. It needs to be able to reach that point to fully release the clutch fork. You can prove this to yourself by pulling the fork forward to compress the slave cylinder. Be careful if your reservoir is full. That fluid has to go somewhere. Won't be able to do that even with the pedal slightly pressed because, the valve closes and now it's into the compression (actuation) mode. As I think about this, I regret suggesting the second adjustment to further lower the clutch pedal after the cylinder swap. It's likely what caused your situation. Please let me know what you find. I'll update the DIY accordingly. |
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