FA20 Engine Oiling, Bearings, and Starvation

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

I wasn't aware the Austrailian V8 Supercars had transaxles. I thought they ran straight rear axles. I assumed only because I watch them and NONE of them run any rear camber, every last one has perfectly straight 0 degree alignments in the rear. I though I heard they used a 4 or 5 link setup so I assumed straight rear end.

The only reason I can see them using a transaxle is if they are running IRS. Actually, I can't see how a transaxle can be used with a straight rear end.

I'll have to look it up, but I think they use regular rear ends and transmissions.

A lot had changed in 2013 regarding V8 Supercars and they do now run transaxles and IRS along with a spec chassis. Brands are more about the body and engine now.

Hollinger makes a sequential for the FRS but I don't know how strong it is. Next year I would like to have a full driveline that can handle 600 whp with slicks under racing conditions. When or if we slow down with engine building I really need to get the external oil pump setup fabricated as we really can't do much more with the current oiling (besides a 12 second dyno pull or 10 second drag pass).

[JP]

V8 Supercars introduced transaxles a couple of years ago with the "Car of the Future" program. They all use an Albins ST6 6 speed sequential Transaxle

[stonenewt]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

And the gearbox that superceded it:
http://www.holinger.com.au/rd6.php

ohh... what's that I spy getting sideways in 3rd photo from the left

[Reaper]

Almost 20k though.

[stonenewt]

How much is a new factory 'box?

[Andreas83]

Originally Posted by Caspeed

Sorry to hear about your motor. Because you already have the motor torn down you might want to consider Pauter Machine rods (California). I ran their rods in my racecar with good success. There are several NASCAR teams that use them as well. One advantage is that they will play with rod length or pin offset at your request. That allowed me to run longer rods with low deck height pistons. They are also very strong and light. And not too expensive. Spending money now will save you money in the long run.

I would also recommend that you look at your oil cooler installation. First of all throw your oil cooler away. You will never get it clean enough. Start at the oil cooler adaptor and port it to improve the flow. Ensure that you have the correct sized lines, use only long radius fittings. Change over to an air cooled oil cooler that has header tanks. Run the lines into the top of the cooler. Keep all of you line runs as short as possible. 130c is only 266f that is not too hot. Oil should be in the 121-145c/250-290f (synthetic oil) range for proper lubrication. IMHO

Also pick up Carroll Smith's "Engineer to Win" and "Prepare to Win"; http://www.carrollsmith.com/books/

Actually, I would recomend his entire series of books. They contain more knowledge about racecar tuning and preparation than you and I will ever learn doing trial and error. "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" was my bible through two formula car restorations.

Good luck!!!

I have considered upgrading the rods when I do the rebuild.
I had a quick look on the timing cover and oil pump on what could be ported.
The pump itself looks like it is good as is, but the channels to the oil filter and filter bracket has a lot of sharp edges that can be smoothed out a bit.
I will look in to the books you are suggesting.

I also found out that the cover for the oil ports to the filter was loose.
All the bolts where barely fingertight.
I had to use a impact screwdriver to remove the pump and the cover on the other side.
There are no gaskets for either the covers or pump, so oil could have escaped out here and pressure have dropped.

[Caspeed]

Originally Posted by Andreas83

I have considered upgrading the rods when I do the rebuild.
I had a quick look on the timing cover and oil pump on what could be ported.
The pump itself looks like it is good as is, but the channels to the oil filter and filter bracket has a lot of sharp edges that can be smoothed out a bit.
I will look in to the books you are suggesting.

I also found out that the cover for the oil ports to the filter was loose.
All the bolts where barely fingertight.
I had to use a impact screwdriver to remove the pump and the cover on the other side.
There are no gaskets for either the covers or pump, so oil could have escaped out here and pressure have dropped.

Here's a link to Pauter Machine;

http://pauter.com/parts/rods/subaru/

I think you are in Norway??? Anyway, I used to send my engine (Type 4 from a Porsche 914/4) to them from Florida because I couldn't find anyone in Florida that could do that level of work. I knew that whatever work or mods that they did would be properly done. They would dry build the engine then tear it down and send back for me to do the final assembly. I would use Pauter rods over Carrillo. IMHO

If you plan to turbo the engine this would also be a good time to lower the compression.

Carroll Smith the author of the books was the team engineer on Ford's LeMans winning GT40 team.

Best of luck!!!

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Caspeed

Here's a link to Pauter Machine;

http://pauter.com/parts/rods/subaru/

I think you are in Norway??? Anyway, I used to send my engine (Type 4 from a Porsche 914/4) to them from Florida because I couldn't find anyone in Florida that could do that level of work. I knew that whatever work or mods that they did would be properly done. They would dry build the engine then tear it down and send back for me to do the final assembly. I would use Pauter rods over Carrillo. IMHO

If you plan to turbo the engine this would also be a good time to lower the compression.

Carroll Smith the author of the books was the team engineer on Ford's LeMans winning GT40 team.

Best of luck!!!

Did you really just rub your ass all over this thread like a dog with a grooming problem?

Dude, you just came into a vendors thread, one of the best vendors we have, and hocked another company.

[Caspeed]

Originally Posted by Calum

Did you really just rub your ass all over this thread like a dog with a grooming problem?

Dude, you just came into a vendors thread, one of the best vendors we have, and hocked another company.

Sorry, My Bad....I was not aware that this was a vendor thread my apologies to all.

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by Calum

Did you really just rub your ass all over this thread like a dog with a grooming problem?

Dude, you just came into a vendors thread, one of the best vendors we have, and hocked another company.

Ha ha thanks but anyone can say, hey these guys are great and I use them for my 800hp V8 bla bla bla so you should have them build for FA20. It meas absolutely zero on this platform how good you are at building other engines. I don't think anyone has any doubt we are the only ones pushing these engine to the point of these failures and actually coming up with solutions. If you aren't out there testing and doing R&D racing this platform, how can you say you know how to make it relaible? How do you even know what is going to fail and when? Oh you read it on ft86club and the source was who? Yeah exactly!

We use Pauter rods in our FA builds currently and I think they are excellent rods but do I think they are better than Carrillo Pro H Beams? No but it's not always the point to use a rod that is way more than you need when you can get nearly as good a rod for hundreds less and you can use your savings towards other engine mods we do that are way more important than having a 1000 hp capable rod.

We often build 800+ hp Subaru engines and for those clients we do suggest key upgrades to our standard Pro Comp builds. Engine building is not following the recipe on the back of a box, it's not about how "big" your company is, it's about designing a blueprint to build your engines to that you have proven can handle serious racing abuse in a winning package. It's only at that point can you look your client's in the eye and say, "this is exactly what you need to reliable get here because we've done it an these parts fail, these need to be modified, and these parts have proven themselves in our testing."

We are always the source of our own information and r&d! We speak truth and facts, not hearsay!

[Reaper]

Now hurry up and figure out a transmission fix.

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by Reaper

Now hurry up and figure out a transmission fix.

Well I may totally take a selfish approach and do nothing to benefit the majority of the community We may end up with a one off but we'll see.

Dry sumped FA engine turning big power 600+ at 9k rpm is what I need to hurt some feelings on the race track.

[spitfire481]

I already shipped a spare trans to a very reputable transmission shop for tear down and r&d. my goals were all noted and they are working to see what can be done. It could go to dog engagement if a more street able solution can't be built due to space limitations. It's going to be a while so I'm sorry, I have nothing else to say right now. Hoping for the best

[Reaper]

@spitfire481 send me a pm when you know more. I tried similar with no notable resuslts. @Element Tuning thanks for all the support on the platform.