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#57 |
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So is the 1500 mark under brake apply or accel? Can you overlay the graphs so I can see the errors between wheel speed? Do you have brake pressure as well to log? Nothing there that should cause an ABS fail so it must be also G or some other CAN trigger. Does it give you any ABS fault codes?
DougW |
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#58 | |
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![]() As you can see, when the ABS shutdown in turn 2 (around 1500ft) I was not on the brakes at all and was actually on the throttle. I was only pulling around 1.1g through the turn which is nothing crazy. I'm assuming a ABS fault code was thrown as the lights came on, but I did not get a chance to pull the code. Too busy pulling into the pits to turn the car off/on again to reset it and get back out there! Also, the brake pressure data shows that I've been relying heavily on my ABS when slowing down and just slamming on the pedal. Probably ought to work on that. Here's the video and you can see the lights come on as soon as I drop 2 wheels off: |
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#59 |
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My impression, but I might be mistaken, is that in ja1217's case the ABS ECU has thrown an outright wobbly at something. It may have been that a large enough jolt caused a short term disconnection of a sensor causing the ABS ECU to go into a fail safe mode.
In Element Tuning's case, I think that he has so much grip there's simply too much disparity between what the car is capable of and what the ABS ECU thinks the car can do so goes into a fail safe mode every time you lean hard on the brakes. |
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#60 | |
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DougW |
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#61 |
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What sounds like it might be nice would be a reset button/switch that could be activated while on the track. My race car has an ABS on/off switch, although I've never had occasion to touch it.
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#62 | |
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#63 | |
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#64 |
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I know this is an old thread, but I believe this is the result of a damaged steering angle sensor?
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