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#127 |
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I understand the idea behind replacing the oem amp with an aftermarket, but I'm a little lost of how I could use this to add an additional amp for a sub woofer...
How can i install an after market amp, while managing to keep the front speakers on the oem amp? |
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#128 |
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This is basically what Im looking to do as well.
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#129 |
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I love peanut butter
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Just buy both Metra harnesses (70-1761 & 71-1761) to intercept/tap-into the signal and amp remote turn-on wires, it's really simple. You will need to re-pin the harnesses, which is easy to do with a small eye-glass repair size flat-head screwdriver. If you want to mail it to me or meet me somewhere in NJ I will do it for you. This will make it completely plug-in play, no cutting into factory wiring.
Last edited by B-R-Z; 08-29-2014 at 09:22 PM. |
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#130 |
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I used t-taps that connected to an rca cable and in to the amp. A t-tap was also used for the remote turn on.
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#131 |
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I was thinking something to the effect of t taps but I wasn't sure if that would hurt the power going to either one. Thanks guys!
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#132 |
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http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-EV2.2000.html
I plan on using this amp to power 2 10" subs. Do I need something like an lc2? Or can't I just tap in rca connections and connect that directly to the amp? |
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#133 | |
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Quote:
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#134 |
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I thought I could, but I wasn't sure if it was reccomended to have an external one. Thanks, now I'm saving 70 bucks!
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#135 |
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I love peanut butter
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I had issues using the factory radio output as high level input. It kept making the head unit go into protection mode when I go over half volume. It seems to be very impedance sensitive. I had to direct the signal to a LOC (MTX Re-Q) then to my amp as low level input, even though my amp accepts high level input. There are others on the boards who have no issues though.
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#136 |
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Anyone know if the signal going to the dash speakers is full range? Do the speakers themselves have high pass filters glued on or is the head unit doing the processing? It is embarrassing how high the cutoff is for the front mid - I'm thinking of doing 4" components on one amp and then 6.5" woofers in the door on another and would like to just run the components off the HU for the time being.
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#137 |
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Dash speakers have passive crossovers built in. Signal is full, but the harness is a bit weird. Signal goes into and out of tweeter harness, then to the 3.5 speaker harness, which is some form of normal harness.
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#138 |
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I'm looking to use a KTP-445U and a AudioControl-LC2i (planning on adding subwoofer soon, so I'll need a line out converter anyhow). Can I run both of these on the same 12v power source as the OEM amplifier?
Also for those of you willing to go the used route, I recently picked up a used KTP-445U that came without harness. You can pick up new harnesses at pacparts.
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#139 |
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You can get away with running the LC2i off of that power source but i would not run an amplifier from it.
You could probably get away with running that small amp from it but since you plan on adding a sub amp down the road anyway, I'd just run a 0/4 gauge power line. |
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#140 |
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Ktp 445u works there b/c stock amp, and it, are both rated at 15A. Like B-R-Z said, you can probably run other accessories safely enough, but if you are adding a sub you will need a new power line, may as well run off of that.
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