Stiff to engage 1st/reverse from a stop after clutch install

[mhiscott]

Originally Posted by Dipstik-sportech

I have motul 600 fluid and a stainless line, I've replaced the slave, bled the crap out of it. Nothing has 100% fixed it. Adjusting the pedal way high seemed to help a bit but it's still difficult to engage a gear at a stoplight for example. I wish I still had my stock clutch so I could try it.

I'll post up once I get mine back in. What a bunch of screwing around.

I installed the new clutch and flywheel, then dropped the gearbox to put more lube on the input shaft, and now I'm about to drop it a third time to put the stocker back in, with an inevitable 4th time after hopefully getting a resolution on the clutch itself.

Ridiculous.

[EZWood]

Originally Posted by Dipstik-sportech

I'm aware of this issue, my friends have to be careful of it with their twin disks. I have tried adjusting it to the point where it was barely releasing and it wasn't any better. If u use a mirror u can look at the fingers through the fork hole and as far as I can tell they're not over extended.

Off topic here, did you ever finish the is 3.73 diff? I always thought if I went fi I would go with a similar setup.

[Dipstik-sportech]

Yes sir I did

[qtwre]

My Exedy Stage 2 has taken a turn for the worse. At first it was only annoying, having to attempt to engage a gear twice each time from a standstill. In the past few days more often than not it isn't letting me get into any gear from a stop without panicked flailing around because I'm in traffic.

When it does this, I've found I can apply light pressure to putting it in first gear, and the car will start to roll forward surprisingly quicker than you'd think. Once the dash reads about 2km/h it will go into gear.

So to avoid this mess, I've resorted to always putting it in 1st before coming to a stop at a light, then just holding my foot on the clutch. It sucks, but it's the only way I can drive it.

Much like the rest of you, I don't know what to do at this point. It's already been back out for a regreasing. Fluid has been bled, tranny fluid has been replaced and pedal has been adjusted out.

What I'm wondering at this point is if it's a problem with the car (slave or such) that some of us have, or if these manufacturers are reusing a part that is close enough for our car but maybe not exactly right. Throw in some variation in tolerances and we get this problem.

[Gords_zenith]

Just a thought, have you checked your input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel for binding? My trucks clutch had to be replaced because this bushing shit the bed and caused hard shifts and block shifts from neutral. It got so bad that I I had to shut it off, put it into gear then I could drive away. Also, IMO my opinion adjusting your clutch to at or below the brake pedal will cause the clutch to drag because all your doing is reducing the pedal stroke which is effectively limiting the travel of the throwout bearing thus probably causing the clutch to drag, especially if it's new and has a lot of material on it.

[stugray]

Originally Posted by qtwre

What I'm wondering at this point is if it's a problem with the car (slave or such) that some of us have, or if these manufacturers are reusing a part that is close enough for our car but maybe not exactly right..

OR..... not even close enough.

Clearly there is a problem with the stackup dimensions of the clutch, disk, pressure plate combo.

Either the pressure plate is not pulling out far enough or the disk is set back too far and is dragging on the flywheel even when the clutch is disengaged.

[Sportsguy83]

My clutch is starting to do this and I'm pissed off to no end... 3rd diff clutch that's been on my car...

I'm looking at OS Giken among others now.

[qtwre]

My clutch is coming back out next week. I'm going to mail it back to Exedy for testing and check that everything still works fine with my stock clutch in the meantime.

For everyone having problems, it would be great if you called your manufacturer's support line if only to make them aware that people are having issues. For all I know, I'm the only one giving Exedy a hard time.

Since this issue seems to be happening after some time and not right away for most people (I think,) is it possible that it's the slave cylinder or another part besides the clutch assembly? Maybe a part is being stressed and is failing at different rates on different cars. Just a shot in the dark. Maybe I'll know more once my stock clutch is back in.

[mhiscott]

So I took the car apart again to swap the stock clutch and flywheel in, but found that the clips for my throw out bearing were damaged. Here's a video of the throw out bearing. I checked the OEM one and it does the same....so I guess it's normal and some kind of auto centering setup?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZiilzaDVWs"]Frs clutch tob - YouTube[/ame]

[mhiscott]

The CM one has the OEM part num on the back of it just like the stocker. Both of the ones I have seem to be indentical subaru oem units. Is the side to side movement in the video normal?

[ahaghshenas]

Same issue with my ACT setup, had an engine rebuild and got the clutch looked at at the same time. Worked good for awhile but its back to old tricks again.

I have noticed that if from a stop you depress the clutch pedal and wait about 20 secs before attepting to engage a gear it will slide in.

Is this the same for anyone else?

[Boss Paco]

Centerforce acting the same. Was great for a few thousand miles, now giving me a hard time engaging from a stop. Shifts like butter and slams gears when moving.

[blown]

anyone still have this issue?

[Naco]

Originally Posted by mhiscott

Back when I was into DSMs, dragging clutches often caused similar issues, but usually the cause was insufficient extension of the clutch slave.

Sorry for bringing this back, but thought this info might be needed here.

Same thing I used to do to my DSM and Evo.

The other part to this though, and it may or may not apply to the 86 chassis as I haven't delved as deep into this car yet, is that if you adjust the clutch masters rod out too far, you'd cover the bypass on the master cylinder and that would cause hydraulic issues.
The test for this would be to adjust the rod out as far as you could for the largest throw and most fluid being pushed through the slave, then manually pushing the slave and fork with your hand. If the slave/fork didn't move, you adjusted too far and would need to shorten the throw in order to not block the bypass.

This is why I think moving the clutch pedal to lower than the brake is counter productive as you are lessening the amount of fluid going through the slave and possibly causing dragging issues.

I'm experiencing the same issues as the OP on a factory OEM clutch setup with only 6K on it. I'm going to bleed the system to see if that helps any and if not, it's most likely some mechanical linkage that's the issue. I had my trans replaced at 1300 because of a grinding issue with third and they probably mucked something else up while ham-fisting the trans in and out.

I'll update with my findings.