Clutch pedal loud squeak

[SportInjected]

Originally Posted by kodyo

Pulled back the rubber boot around the clutch fork today and sprayed white lithium grease randomly inside the housing (with clutch in and out) and the squeak went away and it feels buttery smooth now.

I'll report back later on how long this fix lasts.

Mine started squeaking on the way back home from an hpde this Saturday. I looked at the area by the clutch fork boot, and there are definitely traces of grease visible on the side of the bell housing, originating at the boot. I pulled it back and gave it a few good sprays with white lithium grease, just like you suggested, and the noise went away. I'll have to do some testing with the car fully warmed up and report back.

[gonzo]

Regarding the squeak:

Over the weekend a mechanic told me the noise was from dust inside the clutch and lubricating wouldn't resolve anything.

The dealer "greased" the clutch (not sure exactly where) but it didn't solve the noise.

[kodyo]

Originally Posted by gonzo

Regarding the squeak:

Over the weekend a mechanic told me the noise was from dust inside the clutch and lubricating wouldn't resolve anything.

The dealer "greased" the clutch (not sure exactly where) but it didn't solve the noise.

I can assure you that what I did most definitely eliminated the noise for me since I posted. I've probably shifted a few hundred times since the fix. Obviously 9 days isn't a good indication of long term performance, but I think I'd just reapply the spray if it came back at this point.

[sk47]

Hello; Some decades ago I began the habit of putting a manual shift transmission equipped vehicle in neutral and letting the clutch out (foot all the way off of the clutch pedal)when stopped at lights. This should reduce the wear on the throw-out bearing over time.
My understanding is that when a clutch pedal is pushed in and held during long stops with the trans in gear, the throw-out bearing rotates with the engine and carries some load. With the trans in neutral and the clutch engaged (foot completely off the clutch pedal) the throw-out bearing is no longer carrying a load as it is in the same state as when driving in a gear.

This also can reduce some clutch wear. While sitting at a stop in 1st gear with the clutch disengaged (pushed in) it is possible to still have the clutch disk making light contact with the pressure plate and/or flywheel. This heats up a clutch and causes extra wear.

It is also very hard on a clutch to use it to hold a car on a hill. Use the brake.

For those out of warranty or refused warranty service due to aftermarket options this habit may save some early clutch wear and replacement.

[sk47]

Originally Posted by kodyo

I can assure you that what I did most definitely eliminated the noise for me since I posted. I've probably shifted a few hundred times since the fix. Obviously 9 days isn't a good indication of long term performance, but I think I'd just reapply the spray if it came back at this point.

Hello; Sounds like a lubricant is being sprayed into a bell housing to lube the moving parts of the clutch linkage. There is a risk of getting the lube onto the clutch disk itself. This can cause the clutch to be very grabby when engaged. I would be prudent applying a lube this way.

If the lube can be put into a boot that is mostly external to the bell housing the risk of clutch contamination may be less.

[SportInjected]

Originally Posted by kodyo

I can assure you that what I did most definitely eliminated the noise for me since I posted. I've probably shifted a few hundred times since the fix. Obviously 9 days isn't a good indication of long term performance, but I think I'd just reapply the spray if it came back at this point.

Mine seems to be holding up as well. I haven't been back to the track yet, bit I've got a chance to beat on it on a few occasions.

[kodyo]

Originally Posted by sk47

Hello; Sounds like a lubricant is being sprayed into a bell housing to lube the moving parts of the clutch linkage. There is a risk of getting the lube onto the clutch disk itself. This can cause the clutch to be very grabby when engaged. I would be prudent applying a lube this way.

If the lube can be put into a boot that is mostly external to the bell housing the risk of clutch contamination may be less.

Good to know, thanks for the tips. I wasn't sure since it's kind of hard to visualize all the parts within the housing. I'll keep this in mind if I ever have to relubricate the assembly.

Here's a thread on replacing the clutch that has some good pictures of what's inside the housing.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25054

[sk47]

Originally Posted by kodyo

Good to know, thanks for the tips. I wasn't sure since it's kind of hard to visualize all the parts within the housing. I'll keep this in mind if I ever have to relubricate the assembly.

Here's a thread on replacing the clutch that has some good pictures of what's inside the housing.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25054

Hello; I looked at your link. The clutch linkage, pressure plate, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, flywheel and bellhousing seem very similar to what I have worked on in the past. The chance of getting lube onto the disk surface if lube is put inside the bellhousing seems high. I would apply lube only to parts outside the bellhousing.

In the past I have owned manual shift cars with leaky rear main seals. This allowed engine oil to get onto the clutch disk. The clutch was then very grabby and would not engage smoothly. I would gently pull the car against a tree or post with the bumper touching. (This was back in the 1960's when cars had heavy metal bumpers.) I would lightly engage the clutch in first gear for a few seconds. This would cook some of the oil out of the surface of the clutch disk. Slipping the clutch on a hill sort of did the same. For a time the clutch would be ok. There were actual drawbacks and a some potential drawbacks.

The actual drawbacks were that the clutch disk was getting extra wear and all parts got hot. The potential was for glazing of the clutch disk and heat damage to the pressure plate and flywheel. Also a bent bumper was possible.

At some point (when funds were adequate) the clutch was replaced and the old rope seal at the rear of the crankshaft.

[kodyo]

Originally Posted by sk47

Hello; I looked at your link. The clutch linkage, pressure plate, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, flywheel and bellhousing seem very similar to what I have worked on in the past. The chance of getting lube onto the disk surface if lube is put inside the bellhousing seems high. I would apply lube only to parts outside the bellhousing.

Good to know. Obviously anyone who attempts this should do so at their own risk. I personally hated the feel of the clutch beforehand, so found the fix worth the risks (I can also get the clutch replaced fairly easily if I needed to).

[kodyo]

After 800 miles (A few hundred shifts probably), I am starting to feel the slight squeak come back. Not as bad as before, but I imagine it may get that way. Just an FYI.

Ninja Edit:
Even though it felt like the squeak was coming back, it seems to have resolved itself. Doesn't feel as buttery as it did after first spray, but it still feels pretty normal good/normal enough for now.

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Does anyone have more updates on this issue?
Mine comes and goes, so I'm hesitating to bring it in.

[stevemp5]

Look at mine! Sounds like a tyrap!.... loll
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UTvOPQVufo&list=UUrhCp2F6bXv8PIyq1Xlz_dA&index=1"]Scion FRS clutch wierd noise - YouTube[/ame]

[stratodyne]

My apologies for not responding to this sooner.

I actually got this taken care of by my local dealer about a month and a half ago. The throwout bearing was completely seizing, and this caused damage to the flywheel, as well as the clutch. The clutch fork was also warped. An entire clutch kit was installed by the dealer, and this remedied the issue.

A coworker of mine with a BRZ also started developing this issue, and it was confirmed to be the same exact issue. Not sure what is up with these components from the factory, maybe they're just out of spec or something? Anyways, he also had a full clutch kit installed and it fixed the issue.

Good luck everyone else!

Originally Posted by stratodyne

I also noticed that the noise occurred more during hotter weather, or after extended periods of driving. I'd highly recommend driving around for maybe 30 - 45 minutes before dropping your car off, as this allows the transmission components to be heated up fully.

Anyways, I told the tech that reproducing it would need two people, one person fully depressing the clutch, and one person listening with the hood open. I also pointed out that while the hood is open, the noise can be heard coming from where the transmission tunnel mates with the engine, right around the flywheel.

[frs83]

I have had the same issue. Took to the dealer they lubed the slave pivot removed and reinstalled (thats what the service work order says).

It came back again just after 5 days. Took it to a dealer again and they couldn't reproduce it eventhough the noise was there when I left it.