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Old 12-26-2012, 04:34 PM   #1
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DIY Clutch Replacement

So there you are, in need of a clutch replacement for whatever reason, with no idea where to start. I've put this DIY together in hopes of giving a little guidance to those who might be afraid to do something of this magnitude to their car with no real experience, but have some mechanical proficiency.

Ok enough blabber, lets get this party started.

First things first, you're gonna need time...this isn't a couple hour job, for my first time it took me nearly 9 hours from start to finish with only a couple breaks and I consider myself pretty savvy concerning work on cars.
Second, invest in some Mechanix gloves or an equivalent, they help alot to keep you from beating your hands up too bad and allow you to grip tools that might get oils and greases on them.

Third get a copy of the service manual. Here's a link that I used to download it to my tablet:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12135


Tools and equipment:

4 Jack Stands
2 Automotive Shop Jacks or 1 Shop jack and 1 Transmission Jack
1 Oil Drain Pan
1 Medium Sized Metal Hammer (Ball peen or Claw)
Flathead and Philips head screwdrivers
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" Drive ratchets with metric sockets from 10mm to 17mm
Needlenose pliers
10mm Allen wrench or equivalent
14mm Open end wrench

As you can see not too much is required in the tool department, but I will say that a dedicated transmission jack will make this job a lot easier.


1) Removal of the shifter.

In order to drop the transmission you need to remove the shifter, in order to do so you are gonna have to remove your center console.

- First remove the rubber mat from the center console revealing the 2 bolts below, unscrew them and set aside:




- Next remove your shift knob:




- Remove the trim ring around the shifter by grabbing the lip under the shift boot. You can now just slide the boot over the reverse lockout. Under the Traction Control buttons is a small electrical connector, disconnect this:




- Remove the spare change tray. This requires a bit of force to get out, I put my hand into the opening and pull the bottom out first and then wiggle it to get the top tabs free. The USB/AUX port has a connector that you need to disconnect.




- Now you can see the 4 Philips head screws you need to remove:




- Remove the E-Brake boot. This just pulls straight up and slides over the handle.




- Now remove the center console by lifting it from the back. There are two tabs at the front of the console that require you to pull the trim away from each side. Once you have the console removed you will need to disconnect the 12V receptacle:




- Remove the insulation around the shifter by pulling off the 2 white plastic push clips:






- Remove the console bracket by removing the 4 12mm bolts:




- Remove the rubber shifter boot by pulling it over the shifter/reverse lockout:




- Remove the reverse lockout plate by removing the 4 10mm bolts:




- Under the shiter you will see a small rubber boot, you will need to pull this over and out of the way to reveal the cotter pin that you need to remove to pull the shift linkage from the shifter. There is also a small black washer behind the pin so dont lose that:




- Pull the linkage free from the shifter:




- Pull the shiter out of the shifter seat and Voila! Shifer is removed, time to get dirty!!!





2) Preparation for transmission removal.

So before we get under the car there's some things you need to do. First get your car up on the jack stands, I had to do a bit of manoeuvring to get it up on the stands because my car is low, so keep in mind your clearances.

Once you are up on the stands release the E-brake, this allows you to spin the drive shaft...more on that later.

This would also be the opportune time to drain your transmission. I don't have pics of this but here is a link you can use to help you figure it out: (note: for some strange reason this link shows malware detected on Chrome)

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19218

Once all this is done, pop the hood and lets get down to it.


3) Removing your transmission.


First thing that we need to do is to make sure there's nothing impeding the removal of the transmission, so we're gonna remove the under body panels, disconnect a few connectors, remove a couple grounds, remove the hydraulic clutch actuator, a couple sections of exhaust, the drive shaft, and the transmission cradle...sounds fun right?!?

- First thing to do is to remove the under body panels, there's two of them. One is Black and made of fiberglass, the other is silver and made of aluminum. If you need help finding the bolts to remove, just remember this, any bolt going through the panel needs to be removed. Also so you don't get your bolts mixed up the black panel's hardware is all 10mm bolts, while the silver panel is 12mm with 7 black plastic push clips...use a flat head screwdriver to pull these out.




- Now lets disconnect some stuff. Start with your battery negative terminal, don't want you to shock yourself.




- On the top of the transmission you're gonna see a tangle mess of wires and hoses but we really only need to worry about a few of them. There are 2 connectors (one red and one gray) that need to be disconnected. There's also a ground wire that need to be unbolted from the top of the tranny. You can also see the clutch actuator, its held on with two 14mm bolts. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT TO THE CLUTCH LINE UNLESS YOU WANT TO DEAL WITH BLEEDING IT LATER!




- One thing I forgot to take a picture of is the wiring that needs to be removed from the starter. On the back of the starter you will see a small connector that needs to be removed. Also there is a rubber boot covering a 12mm nut on a wire terminal, remove this and move the wires out of the way.


- Now you will want to remove the 2 sections of exhaust pipe between the over pipe and the axle back. I don't think pics are necessary, but if you need them here's a link to a DIY thread!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8121


- On to the drive shaft!!! I didn't get any good pics of the differential/drive shaft connection, but it should be self explanatory when you get under the car. There's 4 nut/bolt combos that require a 14mm open end wrench and socket to remove. Once you remove those bolts it is likely that the drive shaft will be stuck to the differential. This is what you need the hammer for. Gently tap the drive shaft knuckles, you don't need to gorilla this , just gently tap them so it separates. Next you will remove the two 14mm bolts from the drive shaft cradle and gently slide the shaft out of the rear of the transmission.






- Remove the rear transmission cradle. This requires you to remove pretty much every bolt on the thing, except for the center 17mm nut (unless you plan on installing a Whiteline positive shift bushing or equivalent). Also remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the exhaust hanger while you're at it!






***Here's a pic of the Whiteline Positive Shift Bushing (and my hand)***




- Ok at this point you need to do a couple of things that I forgot to take pictures of, so hopefully I can explain this well enough. You need to use a jack to hold the weight of the engine so it doesn't tip forward, so I just used a soft pad and lifted it from the oil pan. It is plenty sturdy and I didn't even scratch the paint. Once you have the engine stabilized, it's time to get the transmission supported. If you have a transmission jack at your disposal this is a cinch. If like me you have to use another shop jack, make sure it has a nice wide cup and then get a hold of a metal plate that's about 10 inches by 10 inches and use that to stabilize the transmission. The tranny has an odd balance point s you will want to place the jack under:




- Now that everything is support we can remove the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. There are 6 14mm bolts and 2 14mm nuts holding it on. 2 of those bolts on the right side of the transmission also hold the starter in place. So I removed those first and removed the starter.








- At this point you will have the transmission supported fully by the jack so be careful when pulling the transmission out. Use a buddy if you have one handy to help with lowering it out of the car. You will have to rock the transmission and tilt it back to get it out because of the shape of the tunnel where the transmission support bracket mounts. Once you get the transmission clear of the sway bar all you have to do is lower it straight down. I was surprised to find that the transmission is super light only 86.3 lbs! So I pulled it off the jack and slid it out from under the car while doing the rest of the work.





4) Replacing the clutch.


The reason I did this whole thing was to install my new Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck clutch in preparation for my FI setup being installed in January (I'll be doing a DIY for that too But a clutch, is a clutch, is a clutch so this is pretty much standard fare.

- First replace the clutch release bearing by removing the 2 clips on wither side of the clutch fork:




- Remove the stock release bearing, clean off the shaft and apply high temp waterproof grease to the shaft and the inside of the new release bearing. Then install the new bearing, clip the clips and then take a break!




- Done with your break? Ok now lets remove the old clutch from the engine. There are 6 12mm bolts holding the spring plate to the flywheel remove them and then remove the spring plate and clutch disk. There's gonna be a bunch of black flaky crud that gets everywhere when you take this apart.




- Remove the stock flywheel by removing the 8 14mm bolts you will have to lock the flywheel in place because you'll just end up spinning the engine. I used a small piece of angle iron and wedged it in between the teeth of the flywheel and the engine case. Do't worry too much, because you won't be applying much force to the teeth of the flywheel. Be careful not to drop this on your head...it's heavy and will hurt like hell. (Note: This picture is of my aftermarket lightweight flywheel...just use it to see the bolts!)




- Yay this is what you should see now!




- Here's a comparison of OLD vs. NEW!




- There is a small blue bearing in the old flywheel that needs to be pressed out and installed into the new flywheel.


- Install the new flywheel using your flywheel lock and 8 14mm bolts from the stock flywheel. Torque to specification in a criss cross pattern. After you are done mounting your flywheel you need to degrease the friction surface using denatured alcohol or equivalent. Once it's been cleaned be careful not to touch it again.


- Install the clutch disk using the supplied alignment tool:




- Prep the spring plate for install by degreasing the friction surface. Install the spring plate by aligning the mounting pins. Be sure that the clutch disk is properly aligned with the tool and install the 6 12mm bolts from the stock spring plate. Torque to spec.




- Once the spring plate is tightened down the clutch disk will remain in place, but I left it in place until I was ready to re install the transmission.


To get everything back together is basically the reverse of everything we've done.


A few pointers though:

- When installing the transmission get the transmission as even as possible to the engine and kinda wobble it into place. If you find the index pins are a little tight you can use the mounting bolts to pull the transmission to the engine, instead of trying to push it in place.

- Ensure all of your wires are tucked away from the gap between the transmission and engine to keep them from getting pinched.

- The drive shaft is keyed...it doesn't look like it but it is, so make sure not to force it, it should slide in easily.

- Fill your transmission when it's in the car and the drive shaft is installed...otherwise you'll spill it out the rear.

- Don't rush, it's not worth forgetting something or doing something half assed.

Hopefully this will help at least one person, in our community!

Also it's a little ironic that the transmission weighs 86 pounds huh?

Last edited by Supermassive; 12-29-2012 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:43 PM   #2
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hows the drive? chatter much?
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:46 PM   #3
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Awesome job ! Mind writing a little review of the clutch ?
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:50 PM   #4
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Here's my short overnight clutch review, I'll post more once I've had it a while and it's broken in...also after i turn on the boost!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25022
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:53 PM   #5
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Awesome job ! Mind writing a little review of the clutch ?
He did in the engine/electronics section.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:56 PM   #6
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Probably wont be doing this for awhile but thanks for taking the time to write this up. It will be a big help to a lot of people.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:46 PM   #7
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Nice DIY and thanks, been looking for info/pics of this... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...ps8aecd7d7.jpg



Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermassive View Post
- When installing the transmission get the transmission as even as possible to the engine and use the mounting bolts to pull the transmission to the engine, instead of trying to push it in place.
Might want to reword that, it is possible to have the input shaft on the trans not lined up with the splines on the clutch disc and tightening the bellhousing bolts could cause some bad problems. I usually rotate the motor a little until the trans slides all the way against the motor without much force. Luckily Subaru stuck with the studs at the bottom to help keep things lined up!
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:55 PM   #8
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Supermassive is a sexy as bitch... Thank you so much!
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twincamRob View Post
Nice DIY and thanks, been looking for info/pics of this... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...ps8aecd7d7.jpg





Might want to reword that, it is possible to have the input shaft on the trans not lined up with the splines on the clutch disc and tightening the bellhousing bolts could cause some bad problems. I usually rotate the motor a little until the trans slides all the way against the motor without much force. Luckily Subaru stuck with the studs at the bottom to help keep things lined up!
I thought about that but the index pins are pretty tight so I used the bolts to tighten it up. I also rotated the transmission via the driveshaft end to get it line.
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:51 PM   #10
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Thank you, this is the reason why I love this forum hands down as* up

I'll about 10 years away from swapping engine and trans (seriously, I want to keep this thing stock that long) so I'm saving this thread to pdf and mirror backup for that day.

and subscribed to your trans review thread for when the FI is installed.
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:23 PM   #11
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Would you mind posting torque specs for the transmission and driveshaft bolts? I might run my turbo with the stock clutch until summer, but if I can convince myself that I can do my own clutch install this might make it more affordable for me.

I'm thinking about getting the ACT 4 puck clutch. Does the flywheel make that much of a difference? Did it throw a CEL?
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:16 AM   #12
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The flywheel should not throw a CEL. The lighter flywheels tend to chatter on decel.

Also, people generally recommend not running too light of a flywheel for a turbo car. See if you can find out how light it is. The stock flywheel might have been fine for a turbo car.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyperRspec789 View Post
Would you mind posting torque specs for the transmission and driveshaft bolts? I might run my turbo with the stock clutch until summer, but if I can convince myself that I can do my own clutch install this might make it more affordable for me.

I'm thinking about getting the ACT 4 puck clutch. Does the flywheel make that much of a difference? Did it throw a CEL?
Torque values are as follows:

The 3 numbers are NM/KGF*CM/FT*LBS:

Transmission Torque Values:

Manual transmission filler plug x Manual transmission assembly 37 377 27
Manual transmission drain plug sub-assembly x Manual transmission assembly 37 377 27
Manual transmission assembly x Rear No. 1 engine mounting insulator 40 408 30
Manual transmission assembly x Engine for bolt 50 510 37
Manual transmission assembly x Engine for nut 50 510 37
Rear No. 2 engine mounting insulator x Body for bolt 65 663 48
Rear No. 2 engine mounting insulator x Body for nut 55 561 41
Exhaust pipe bracket x Manual transmission assembly 23 235 17
Floor shift control shift lever retainer sub-assembly x Body 18 184 13
Clutch release cylinder assembly x Manual transmission assembly 37 377 27
Shift lever cap x floor shift control shift lever retainer 7.5 77 66
Shift lever boot x Body 18 184 13

Driveshaft Torque Values:

Center support bearing assembly x Body 52 530 38
Propeller shaft assembly x Rear Differential companion flange 74 755 55

I'll update my DIY when i have a few extra minutes with the torque values!

As for CELs, nothing yet and I've already been beating this car up a bit with the new clutch and flywheel, the engine is much more responsive so a lot more fun now!!!
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:05 PM   #14
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Excellent write up! Thank you for being so thorough and for taking detailed pics.

I just wanted to add that you need to be careful when using the bolts to bring the engine and trans together because if the splines are not lined up perfectly then it will cause some binding and the clutch won't release. Another common problem is putting grease on spinning parts because it can get flung off onto the disc surface, which can cause slipping.

Overall great write-up. Thank you

-Zach
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:08 PM   #15
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Excellent write up! Thank you for being so thorough and for taking detailed pics.

I just wanted to add that you need to be careful when using the bolts to bring the engine and trans together because if the splines are not lined up perfectly then it will cause some binding and the clutch won't release. Another common problem is putting grease on spinning parts because it can get flung off onto the disc surface, which can cause slipping.

Overall great write-up. Thank you

-Zach
Yeah I made sure the splines were lined up, the issue i had was due to the index pins they were just a tad too tight to just push the transmission back on from under the car laying on my back...guess i should have reiterated that.

And yes you have to be semi liberal with the grease on the input shaft, but the service manual explicitly states to grease the splines and realese bearing surface of the shaft so, just gotta be liberal with the goo!
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:01 AM   #16
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Nice writeup. Very similar to the one I was going to writeup once I get my pics back from my friend. I did a couple things the simpler way. I didn't completely remove the rear transmission cross member, and I left the starter connected to its wiring in the engine bay. I also found it easiest to remove and reinstall the transmission with the front of the engine jacked up from below. Do not use one of the engine supports that rest on the inner fender channel as our fenders are too weak and will bend. I didn't use the bolts to pull the transmission together. I just got it on the bottom two studs and put those nuts on a little bit to keep it from sliding back off and then once the engine couldn't move it wasn't too bad to shake it up and down and side to side until it was all mounted up.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:12 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Nice writeup. Very similar to the one I was going to writeup once I get my pics back from my friend. I did a couple things the simpler way. I didn't completely remove the rear transmission cross member, and I left the starter connected to its wiring in the engine bay. I also found it easiest to remove and reinstall the transmission with the front of the engine jacked up from below. Do not use one of the engine supports that rest on the inner fender channel as our fenders are too weak and will bend. I didn't use the bolts to pull the transmission together. I just got it on the bottom two studs and put those nuts on a little bit to keep it from sliding back off and then once the engine couldn't move it wasn't too bad to shake it up and down and side to side until it was all mounted up.
Yeah I probably should say that you don't have to remove the rear transmission brace from the transmission, I did to put my Whiteline bushing in. As for leaving the starter attached to the wiring...I just saw a connector and a ring terminal and decided that it was easy to just remove the whole thing from the car...better than have it possibly fall down and hit something. It seems that enough people have had luck with getting their transmissions to seat fine over the pins...maybe I was just at and odd angle, even with all the bolts threaded in so it was all lined up, the pins were just a little too tight to just wobble it in...it was also a pain in the ass to get it off the pins too now that i think about it...
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:08 PM   #18
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lol 86 lbs
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:09 PM   #19
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lol 86 lbs
I actually picked the transmission up over my head...wanted a picture but no one was around...so I put it back down because I realized how ridiculous I must look in my garage grunting like a cave man who just discovered fire, with a transmission above my head...
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:31 AM   #20
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I actually picked the transmission up over my head...wanted a picture but no one was around...so I put it back down because I realized how ridiculous I must look in my garage grunting like a cave man who just discovered fire, with a transmission above my head...
lmfao
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:28 AM   #21
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Thank you very much for doing this. Now I know that buying a flywheel is only 1/10th of the job and it will cost loads more than just $200 because of labor. I don't have a press so I wouldn't be able to do it myself. This will probably be one of my last mods because of this. Thanks again!
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:28 AM   #22
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Thank you very much for doing this. Now I know that buying a flywheel is only 1/10th of the job and it will cost loads more than just $200 because of labor. I don't have a press so I wouldn't be able to do it myself. This will probably be one of my last mods because of this. Thanks again!
What do you need a press for? I managed to swap the clutch and flywheel without one...
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