Kraftwerks Supercharger Owners Thread

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by zoth

By the way @KraftWerks, what is your opinion about some of the guys in here that are saying that we need a check valve for the intake manifold. I was hoping you guys can give us a solid answer to put the issue to bed. Thanks in advance.

Yes, please provide some input on this. I have a 1/2" hose running to the crank on my right (driver's side) Radium catch can. I'm assuming you cut into that hose, put the 1\2" check valve in, then clamp both sides?

Of course all this assuming that it's even needed.

I'm also trying to understand the clamping of the hoses under the manifold too. Read some of the posts on it. You can see all the hoses if you remove your A/C compressor? I thought the lines were behind the manifold?

[zoth]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

Yes, please provide some input on this. I have a 1/2" hose running to the crank on my right (driver's side) Radium catch can. I'm assuming you cut into that hose, put the 1\2" check valve in, then clamp both sides?

Of course all this assuming that it's even needed.

I'm also trying to understand the clamping of the hoses under the manifold too. Read some of the posts on it. You can see all the hoses if you remove your A/C compressor? I thought the lines were behind the manifold?

Under not behind.

[gmsii]

Originally Posted by zoth

By the way @KraftWerks, what is your opinion about some of the guys in here that are saying that we need a check valve for the intake manifold. I was hoping you guys can give us a solid answer to put the issue to bed. Thanks in advance.

The solid answer is that the factory check valve does leak .....but it doesn't leak enough to affect performance
At KW we tested the check valve and it leaks ever so slightly at approx 7psi but the amount of air that leaks through is roughly the same at 7psi all the way up to 90psi.
We tested the KW kit with both the factory check valve and a heavy duty check valve and there was no difference in performance/horsepower
The are those that freak out over the idea of having a 'boost leak' but the reality is that the leak has no perceivable affect on boost ....just as a pinhole leak in a bathtub wouldn't have a meaningful affect on the overall volume of water in the tub.
So the definitive answer is .....change it if you want, but you don't really need to

ps.....for those that are freaked out about leaks... Did u realize that your wheels and tires leak air also?

[myd_lyf_crysys]

Got the car back on Saturday and made the 4 1/2 hour trip back home... The car finally goes as good as it looks!

@Drift_Office was kind enough to snap a few pictures during the install.








And then the final results:



To @KraftWerks, @Drift_Office and @fteightysix...

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by myd_lyf_crysys

Got the car back on Saturday and made the 4 1/2 hour trip back home... The car finally goes as good as it looks!

@Drift_Office was kind enough to snap a few pictures during the install.
Attachment 91714

Attachment 91715

Attachment 91716

Attachment 91717

And then the final results:

Attachment 91718

To @KraftWerks, @Drift_Office and @fteightysix...

I've seen your car at the Drift Office last Saturday, good looking setup and those boosted automatic twins should be fun at tracks.. congrats

[Avo1789]

Originally Posted by myd_lyf_crysys

Got the car back on Saturday and made the 4 1/2 hour trip back home... The car finally goes as good as it looks!

@Drift_Office was kind enough to snap a few pictures during the install.
Attachment 91714

Attachment 91715

Attachment 91716

Attachment 91717

And then the final results:

Attachment 91718

To @KraftWerks, @Drift_Office and @fteightysix...

Very nice! Whish rotrex unit and what fuel was used? That seems like the perfect amount of power for a fun auto DD set up.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[zoth]

Originally Posted by gmsii

The solid answer is that the factory check valve does leak .....but it doesn't leak enough to affect performance
At KW we tested the check valve and it leaks ever so slightly at approx 7psi but the amount of air that leaks through is roughly the same at 7psi all the way up to 90psi.
We tested the KW kit with both the factory check valve and a heavy duty check valve and there was no difference in performance/horsepower
The are those that freak out over the idea of having a 'boost leak' but the reality is that the leak has no perceivable affect on boost ....just as a pinhole leak in a bathtub wouldn't have a meaningful affect on the overall volume of water in the tub.
So the definitive answer is .....change it if you want, but you don't really need to

ps.....for those that are freaked out about leaks... Did u realize that your wheels and tires leak air also?

@KraftWerks not an expert as you guys, but we are talking about the check valve being recommended to be installed between the PVC valve to the intake manifold, right?

Please see attached... Thanks in advance if you guys could clear this up.

[myd_lyf_crysys]

Originally Posted by Avo1789

Very nice! Whish rotrex unit and what fuel was used? That seems like the perfect amount of power for a fun auto DD set up.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

C30 on 92 pump

[Freeman]

Originally Posted by myd_lyf_crysys

Got the car back on Saturday and made the 4 1/2 hour trip back home... The car finally goes as good as it looks!

Nice, looks like its time for me to get back over and see Bob for tuning.

What's your exhaust setup like?

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by gmsii

The solid answer is that the factory check valve does leak .....but it doesn't leak enough to affect performance
At KW we tested the check valve and it leaks ever so slightly at approx 7psi but the amount of air that leaks through is roughly the same at 7psi all the way up to 90psi.
We tested the KW kit with both the factory check valve and a heavy duty check valve and there was no difference in performance/horsepower
The are those that freak out over the idea of having a 'boost leak' but the reality is that the leak has no perceivable affect on boost ....just as a pinhole leak in a bathtub wouldn't have a meaningful affect on the overall volume of water in the tub.
So the definitive answer is .....change it if you want, but you don't really need to

ps.....for those that are freaked out about leaks... Did u realize that your wheels and tires leak air also?

What factory check valve are you talking about? Can you please take a picture of it? Can you describe this testing procedure you performed? There is no check valve in the PCV system on this car. That hose running off the back of the intake manifold and into the crankcase on the passenger side is being pressureized and is pressurizing the crankcase without a check valve installed. We aren't worried about leaking or losing boost, we are worried about presurizing an area of the engine that wasn't meant to see pressure.

[gmsii]

Originally Posted by King Tut

What factory check valve are you talking about? Can you please take a picture of it? Can you describe this testing procedure you performed? There is no check valve in the PCV system on this car. That hose running off the back of the intake manifold and into the crankcase on the passenger side is being pressureized and is pressurizing the crankcase without a check valve installed. We aren't worried about leaking or losing boost, we are worried about presurizing an area of the engine that wasn't meant to see pressure.

by definition...a 'PCV' system is going to have check valves in it

anytime a hose goes from the block to a part that sees vacuum there need to be a check valve in place (ie the brake booster of the manifold)
on the FA20 engine there are three hoses...one goes to the brake booster, one goes to the manifold, and one goes to intake tube before the throttle body. the hose connected to the brake booster and manifold need and have check valves in the place. for the hose that goes to the manifold, the check valve is in screwed into the block (so some people might not think there is a check valve in place)....that is the part we tested. we tested it on a bench where we pressurized the outlet side until the valve started to leak, and then measured the amount of leakage which proved to be minimal at all pressure levels from 7psi to 90psi.

the net-net is that you arent going to pressurize the block in any manner that should be of concern with the factory valves in place; unless you hook up the third line which was meant to vent to atomosphere to a part of the system that is seeing boost. That third should be hooked up to the non-pressurized intake tube (before the compressor)

hope this makes things a bit more clear

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by gmsii

the check valve is in screwed into the block (so some people might not think there is a check valve in place)....that is the part we tested. we tested it on a bench where we pressurized the outlet side until the valve started to leak, and then measured the amount of leakage which proved to be minimal at all pressure levels from 7psi to 90psi.

Do you have a picture of that? My understanding has been that it is just a threaded barb fitting and has no check valve in it. A check valve is not required in a PCV system on a non forced induction car.

[gmsii]

i don't want to argue...you can read for yourself

[ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system"]Crankcase ventilation system - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-SUBARU-PCV-VALVE-11810AA130/dp/B00BC4VWO6"]Amazon.com: GENUINE SUBARU PCV VALVE - 11810AA130: Automotive[/ame]

any disputes should be taken up with Amazon and Wikipedia respectively

[zoth]

Something to watch....

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1Jb_sfpZsI"]PCV VALVE OPERATION - YouTube[/ame]