Combating the heat

[AJPG]

Originally Posted by BRZPDX

Yea I have a stock radiator at the moment. I can't exactly remember why but I was told setting the fan temps too low isn't a good thing either (something about coolant staying in the radiator too long or something).

The oil cooler I use is this one:
http://www.tomiokaracing.com/index.p...hermostat.html
it says 16 row.

I really want to resolve this high coolant temp issue (220F just driving stop and go traffic today again) and the next step I am thinking is drilling holes in the front bumper, FB shroud for stock rad/fan set up. My custom TC kit is so tight in their, I am not sure if the thicker Koyo Rad will fit in their without using thin spal fans.

Whether its Koyo or stock rad, I still think the issue is air flow and fans. Not the radiator it self.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Something else is the issue, not the cooling. Without load, your engine is not really creating much heat, since you're not really burning a lot of fuel.

Don't fix the symptom; look for the cause.

Ok. Let's do some trouble shooting, shall we!
1. Get in your car at midday and start the engine, let it run for a couple of cycles (fans on and off) more or less 45-60 min or until the car gets hot, what ever comes first... If you have the shroud it is unlikely that it will get hot. (220f a you post). Note max temp.
2. Get on the highway, see temp at cruse, 1/2 3/4 and WOT. Uphill would be more interesting.
3. Get in the track! trolling! already know that data.

Check coolant level

Originally Posted by Boba_kz

FBM Stage 1

1) FBM shroud with Spal fans
2) Koyo radiator
3) FBM oil cooler
4) Additional hood and bumper ventilation
5) Motul Mocool
6) Heat wrap

Still have a problem with heat after pushing turbo.

Hello

I have some info that may help.
Have the koyo and custom oil cooler 20 rows, up to date max oil temp 224f, BUT FI with vortech and even then the SC have its own oil cooler... So maybe 20 rows are ok for cooling the engine with sc, but need more rows for the turbo.

Originally Posted by mike the snake

This is what I've done, along with a Drift Armor front crash bar replacing the stock crash beam. This allows a LOT more air in through the front.

I also modified my skidplate, cutting a hole and adding a rubber "trip strip" to help draw air out of the engine bay.

Nice!

[@Art_Mighty]

Another clip option...

Baruta

[cdrazic93]

Just a quick thought; would it be possible to add an oil temp sensor then program in a selected temp and have extra lines open up to a second oil cooler? The only problem I see with this is once that temp goes back down there would still be residual oil in the second cooler which would carmalize

[AJPG]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Just a quick thought; would it be possible to add an oil temp sensor then program in a selected temp and have extra lines open up to a second oil cooler? The only problem I see with this is once that temp goes back down there would still be residual oil in the second cooler which would carmalize

It could be done, but why??
Currently I have 2 oil coolers for the engine, they are consecutive, not parallel. The first one is the one doing the real work (delta temp it's larger) and the second as a back up if oil gets too hot, and I could tell you it works like a charm, even at track never seen oil temp above 225f with outside temps 110f and high humidity. Heat soak? What is that??? Lol If I keep the engine running and the car not moving temps drop like a rock. Normal oil temps 195-205f.

I do have a termo switch for an additional oil cooler but for the SC, works as intended and only during abuse the additional pump turns on. Average SC temps 165-190f.

About the oil getting "caramelized" it won't happen! As you said it will turn off when oil get cool, but even with that, the oil cooler is not the heat source.

**the setup I'm using would not work properly on cold climate, but doesn't apply as I live in the tropic

[cdrazic93]

Thats also for a SC which arent nearly as warm as turbo setups

[Rosticles]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Just a quick thought; would it be possible to add an oil temp sensor then program in a selected temp and have extra lines open up to a second oil cooler? The only problem I see with this is once that temp goes back down there would still be residual oil in the second cooler which would carmalize

I think you're describing an in-line thermostat. Many make them, and I was going to add it to an oil to water heat exchanger if/when I turbo my car. This would allow an oil to air exchanger for more cooling when the oil gets hot enough. The only downside to this setup that I can think of is cost and pressure drop in the system.

http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-i...20Scion%20FR-S
http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm

[AJPG]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Thats also for a SC which arent nearly as warm as turbo setups

Well that's correct!!! But and I like buts Lol
I could tell what I know for a fact. I guess the setup I'm using will work better than average with the turbo setup... All oil coolers on the market are made from aluminum (I'm not implying that all are the same) but no huge difference on heat dissipation capacity...
If you need or desire cooler oil need more air passing trough the oil cooler or the same amount of air trough a bigger oil cooler.

[cdrazic93]

since you guys are so.....



cool....
im so punny


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74784

would this work? idea taken off of evasive motorsports time attack frs.

[abraxis]

Personally I've been contemplating an oil/water cooler instead of air. I think it makes more sense for a daily street driven car and has other advantages as long as the unit is of high enough quality to ensure mixing never occurs.

[AJPG]

Dude I'm really sorry if I make you feel bad in anyway, it wasn't my intention at all...
And yes it will/should work, it allows more air to pass trough the oil cooler, IC, rad, BUT (Lol) to cut the front fascia

About the cool factor... I do what I like in my free time (drive, think, modify), that's for cars currently but start as a little kit with bikes (MR50 at 5 years old), then it got out of control, includes bikes, bicycles, cars.

At this time working an effective oil cooler for the AT, it's getting hot, >270f (with abuse)...

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

since you guys are so.....



cool....
im so punny


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74784

would this work? idea taken off of evasive motorsports time attack frs.

[dejxx]

dumb question, but has anyone tried using some sort of racing coolant on the radiator? intercooler?
We race in Brazil, wheres freaking HOT all the time, and ive heard that some type of coolant additives can bring down temps 10-20c... is this bullshit? or can it be true?

[mike the snake]

I think water is the best, and water with some "water wetter" would be as good as is possible.

Many tracks ban the use of antifreeze anyways, it causes BIG probs if it ever leaks out on track.

[Reaper]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

since you guys are so.....



cool....
im so punny


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74784

would this work? idea taken off of evasive motorsports time attack frs.

We don't need more air into the engine bay. We need more air out. Cut the cowl problem solved. I've tested this extensively.

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Reaper

We don't need more air into the engine bay. We need more air out. Cut the cowl problem solved. I've tested this extensively.

@mkivsoopra and i tested this theory at the thunderhill racetrack in CA. Doesn't work. We even used pieces of string to visualize the flow of air on the track and the pieces of string were sucked into the engine bay which means air is not being evacuated. Our coolant and oil temps did not decrease. @CSG Mike has seen similar findings.

We have solved our FI heat problems by installing a huge oil cooler (25 row series 9 setrab). A 20 row may suffice btw but it is untested. NOTE: This has yet to be tested in 100+ degree weather. In 80+ degree weather we were seeing no more than ~215 F oil and coolant driving hard on track. Stock radiator.