The "Pedal Dance" testing

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

well, I do get the blinking traction light on an overly dusty and "tight" autocross.


180* hairpins will almost universally cause the light to go on


and after reading the previous few posts I've started to wonder if I too feel like the car "bogs", just a little, in those situations.




I really should try to disable it... lol , with the proximity of light posts and curbs the possibility of icemode is a little freaky to me, much scarier than just sliding off into the grass on a track.

Try it... I'd bet you won't ever look back. That's been the case with nearly everyone I know that's tried it.

[???]

Ok starting to get confused is ebd the electronic system that splits the bias front and rear or the system that brakes individual wheels?


For me, there is no glide in pulse and glide :p

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by ???

Ok starting to get confused is ebd the electronic system that splits the bias front and rear or the system that brakes individual wheels?


For me, there is no glide in pulse and glide :p

EBD == Electronic Brake force Distribution; ie. electronic and computer controlled bias. I believe I've read it can actually distribute to all four wheels independently and is part of the traction control and ABS systems on our car.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Trail braking is more important to me, since the only time the e-diff kicks in is over high speed (120+mph) corners where it actually destabilizes the car. The E-diff, to me, is unpredictable, because the computer is interpreting my input into what it thinks i want, instead of giving me what I actually want. This may vary, as I know the diff will be open in some cases, and am giving the car input to accommodate that.

Simple answer is yes, I'd rather lose EBD and not have the e-diff, since neither are things I want. It's the same reason I find the C7 vette unpredictable with the e-diff.

There are a couple of places at Thunderhill where I get the e-diff coming on, the lowest speed (and most noticeable) is a ~180 degree hairpin. None of those places are near 120Mph. The hairpin is more like 30Mph or something (it is a second gear turn).

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

There are a couple of places at Thunderhill where I get the e-diff coming on, the lowest speed (and most noticeable) is a ~180 degree hairpin. None of those places are near 120Mph. The hairpin is more like 30Mph or something (it is a second gear turn).

I usually don't have problems with the e-diff at all on stock suspension; it only happens on the stuff with high spring rates (and minimal droop)

[Roadcone]

so what causes the hopping on the inside? bone stock suspension at the moment. this was on a 50ish mph hard right with banking. on this road


I assumed it was cradle bushings being pushed to their limit and then the tire breaking free and basically getting axle wrap/wheel hop due to a sloppy stock bushing

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Roadcone

on this road

Those are great roads up there!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Roadcone

so what causes the hopping on the inside? bone stock suspension at the moment. this was on a 50ish mph hard right with banking. on this road


I assumed it was cradle bushings being pushed to their limit and then the tire breaking free and basically getting axle wrap/wheel hop due to a sloppy stock bushing

The exact cause can be a lot of things, but generally it involves breaking traction with a combination of insufficient contact and too much throttle input.

[Slick]

I tried the Pedal Dance for the first time this weekend.

After 2 years of track days with this car, I would only disable the nannies via the 5-sec press.
Now I find the rear of the car much more stable on hard braking hairpins or transitions.

Will keep using it on the track as I see no downsides (other than the process).

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Slick

I tried the Pedal Dance for the first time this weekend.

After 2 years of track days with this car, I would only disable the nannies via the 5-sec press.
Now I find the rear of the car much more stable on hard braking hairpins or transitions.

Will keep using it on the track as I see no downsides (other than the process).

I'm glad you like it!

[BatStig]

This was asked in another thread:

Originally Posted by dradernh

Will ice mode in this car stop if after inducing it the driver releases a slight amount of brake pressure, or maybe a bit more? If not, what do you do to get the braking back?

To which you responded:

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I don't know, but I'll do some testing when I get the chance!

Keep bugging me.

Well, I didn't hold up my end of the bargain. I never bugged you about it. What are the odds that you remembered and had a chance to test this?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BatStig

This was asked in another thread:



To which you responded:



Well, I didn't hold up my end of the bargain. I never bugged you about it. What are the odds that you remembered and had a chance to test this?

Gotta fully release the brake to get out of ice mode, but the pedal goes back to normal immediately when you fully release

[BatStig]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Gotta fully release the brake to get out of ice mode, but the pedal goes back to normal immediately when you fully release

You're a good man.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Gotta fully release the brake to get out of ice mode, but the pedal goes back to normal immediately when you fully release

So, since you're already not getting any braking effect due to the ice mode, you can jump right off and ease right back on in one continuous movement, and if the condition causing ice mode in the first place is no longer present, you now have braking force. This is good to know. Thanks!