CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Rocket.BRZ]

Hey guys. I was just curious to see if anything might be wrong in the way I have my coilovers dialed in (tarmac 2) the ride is a bit bouncy. They are set to your recommended settings but I softened the rear 1-2 clicks after this track event. Here is a video from the event. Thank You

[ame]http://youtu.be/-2MmKPtJZ1M[/ame]

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Rocket.BRZ

Hey guys. I was just curious to see if anything might be wrong in the way I have my coilovers dialed in (tarmac 2) the ride is a bit bouncy. They are set to your recommended settings but I softened the rear 1-2 clicks after this track event. Here is a video from the event. Thank You

Give me a call tomorrow ( WED ) I will be driving out to Mid Ohio and have 8 hrs to burn in the car. We can go over a few changes to make etc.

Myles
443 370 9000

[cjcoupe]

Been thinking of the TWS T-66F in 18x8.5. What would be the advantages of going with 17x8 with regards to handling given it is already a light wheel. I like the aesthetic advantages of a big wheel but is it worth it? At this stage, no forced induction. I want to fit the ap sprint kit and 18x8 does not fit putting it out of contention.

Also if I go with 17x8 will I be able to continue to use the stock suspension without disadvantage in handling given the wider width compared to stock?

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Bobblehead

What are the "staples" for making the car handle even better, bracing included. For Fox body Mustangs it was sub frame connectors, front strut tower brace and better springs.

What's this car's secret to "slot car" handling?

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

A good alignment is something that should be done off the showroom floor IMO.

Tires of course make a huge difference. Emphasis should be on tire compound, not just wider tires.

The rest of it depends on how you plan to use the car.

For a "fun" daily driver I personally would do:
1. alignment (camber bolts at the least, possibly rear LCAs to get it perfect)
2. good summer tires (michelin PSS are a good option for a DD)
3. good springs (perhaps RCE Yellows)
4. good dampers (Bilstein HD or Koni Yellow)
5. rear subframe bushings and MAYBE a few others

That's really it. For a more track focused car I'd look into good quality coilovers with camber plates and as many bushings as I can. Then track time.

With regards to springs...there's a lot of talk about them negatively impacting handling and I think that's true most of time. But they're not all the same. Naturally I like our RCE Yellow and Tarmac springs, but Swifts and Eibach Pro-kit are okay too.

- Andy

I couldn't agree with Andy enough. This is my DD/canyon car which I am hoping to get competative locally in STX eventually., just need tires and power mods, lol. I currently have RCE yellows on 225/45/17 Potenza S-04 (similar to the PSS, but cheaper). Just installed crash and camber bolts in the front to get just over -2 camber and holy cow is it amazing. I have a set of Koni Yellows I got basically for free but am waiting to replace one that is blown. Those along with the Whiteline rear UCA camber bushings I am installing next week and I think I am set for a while. I also have the rear subframe bushings and they are a killer addition, expecially for the price.

If I didn't get a deal on the Konis I porbably would have saved for the Bilsteins. If you like a more neutral car (it will rotate but just not as easy as stock, which is too easy IMO) go with RCE springs. If you want more tail happy rotation then I would say go with swifts as they are stil a staggered rate. Those were my choices and a 20 minute phone call to RCE had me confidant in ordering and I don't regret it one bit.

[knipple]

When tuning a double adjustable shock (e.g. RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers), how do the adjustments affect the behavior of the vehicle?

[themajesticone]

Totally overlooked this thread...
I made my own earlier today, perhaps you can give you me your thoughts?

I want to upgrade my suspension so that I can run my car as a somewhat comfortable daily driver, but also be able to take it to track days every month or two and have it perform well. I think many of you would agree, keeping stock shocks and doing an upgrade like this: http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/ft-8...-kit-1152.html won't cut it for track at least. I have a few options in mind (see below) and I would really appreciate some constructive responses.

*I understand that yes it is non-adjustable vs. adjustable. Keeping that in mind I really have no idea how often I would actually adjust ride height realistically. If there is a better option than the ones I have listed below please offer the suggestion so I can take it into account. Thank you.

Would really like to hear from @Racecomp Engineering @CSG David @CSG Mike and @FT-86 SpeedFactory

1) Bilstein B8 Package(RCE Yellow) - http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/bils...llow-1421.html

2) Bilstein B8 Package(RCE Tarmac) - http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/bils...rmac-1422.html

3) Bilstein B8 Package(Pro-Kit) - http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/bils...-kit-1424.html

4) Bilstein B8 Package(Sportline) - http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/bils...line-1423.html

5) Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers - http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/bils...vers-1216.html

6) Skunk2 Pro-C Coilovers - http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/skun...vers-1725.html

7) KW V1 Coilovers - http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/kw-v...vers-1001.html

8) Fortune Auto V5 500 Series- http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/fort...lover-206.html

What should I go with?

[finch1750]

In that budget i would say option 2. It will be a fantastic setup handling wise while keeping a good amount of DD comfort. If you track just to learn and have fun it will should be perfectly capable.

[themajesticone]

Originally Posted by finch1750

In that budget i would say option 2. It will be a fantastic setup handling wise while keeping a good amount of DD comfort. If you track just to learn and have fun it will should be perfectly capable.

In that respect would option 2, Bilstein B8 Package(RCE Tarmac) be a better performer than the Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers? I just don't see myself adjusting or wanting to adjust. Plus the B14 can only adjust right height, not dampening, so in that instance getting a complete package with the tarmacs,b8 and lca's is a better overall option, right?

And yes, I would be tracking to learn more, have fun, and get better at track driving with the semi-comfort of daily driving.

[Turkish]

In about a month or so, I'll be in a financial position to pull the trigger on the Raceseng cascam plates (unless the RCE plates suddenly become available). My question is, what are the cons (if any) to maxing out caster?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by themajesticone

In that respect would option 2, Bilstein B8 Package(RCE Tarmac) be a better performer than the Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers? I just don't see myself adjusting or wanting to adjust. Plus the B14 can only adjust right height, not dampening, so in that instance getting a complete package with the tarmacs,b8 and lca's is a better overall option, right?

And yes, I would be tracking to learn more, have fun, and get better at track driving with the semi-comfort of daily driving.

posted in your other thread.

B14 vs. B8+RCE Tarmac is a tough call honestly. B14 use progressive springs and I much prefer linear springs at the track. They are firmer at their final rate (at least for the rear) but you may find the B8+RCE Tarmac combo to more consistent and easier to drive fast.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Turkish

In about a month or so, I'll be in a financial position to pull the trigger on the Raceseng cascam plates (unless the RCE plates suddenly become available). My question is, what are the cons (if any) to maxing out caster?

Do it. When you get reeeeally far up there steering feels a little funny, but we don't get up to that point.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by knipple

When tuning a double adjustable shock (e.g. RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers), how do the adjustments affect the behavior of the vehicle?

I've got a write-up on my home compy that I'll post tonight.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by knipple

When tuning a double adjustable shock (e.g. RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers), how do the adjustments affect the behavior of the vehicle?

Plagiarizing myself:

"Compression, also known as bump, controls how the damper compresses over bumps and during body roll. Adding compression damping can improve the stability, feel, and feedback of the car. Too much compression can cause the car to skip or skate over bumps and feel unstable.

Rebound controls how the damper extends back over bumps and during body roll. Adding rebound reduces excessive movement of the chassis and improves stability. Too much rebound can reduce overall grip in cornering and transitions. Too much rebound can also reduce traction coming out of slow speed corners. Too little rebound will feel make the car feel floaty or bouncy."

From Penske:

Track Tuning (GENERAL):

Compression Adjuster:
This adjuster is typically used when looking to improve the car over bumps. If your vehicle is hitting a certain bump that is causing the vehicle to “unload” the tire, simply soften the compression adjustment.This will allow the shock to absorb the bump, there keeping the vehicle more stable and making the car more controllable. You can also use this adjuster to help in controlling the “platform” of the car, or the body roll. Example‐ If you are entering a corner and under braking the front of the car is diving to quickly or the weight being transferred from the back to the front is too much, simply close the compression adjuster on the front to slow that weight transfer down.

Rebound Adjuster:
The rebound adjuster is a great tool for tuning body roll. This is a much more driver sensitive adjustment than the compression. If you want to slow the pitch of your car from the back to the front, simply close the rebound off, this will slow the weight transfer.
When you are accelerating off a corner, getting weight transfer to the rear tires is very important for grip or “forward bite” as its reffered to sometime. By softening the front rebound, this will allow for quicker weight transfer to the rear tires, resulting is better rear grip. Be careful though, by allowing to much weight transfer to the rear, you may cause a loss of front grip, resulting in an “understeer” or “tight” condition.

There are other guides floating around out there.

It's important to note that the damper does not control how much body roll you have, but rather the rate of body roll. That still has a big impact. So you will feel there effects more on corner entry and corner exit. Dampers will not have a big effect on long steady state corners.

Generally we start from full soft and work our way up when tuning (but when setting the adjuster remember to turn to full stiff and adjust back...full stiff "zeroes" the adjuster). Then we fine tune from there.

There is a LOT to say about how each adjustment affects the car in certain situations. Once you get a feel for what compression and rebound does, things start to click and you know what to do about that slight bit of corner entry understeer...

- Andy

[sittinSideways]

Originally Posted by jvincent

I've actually got both installed .

I'm guessing you had to drop the subframe to insert those?