Pure Price

[Yoniyama]

I used a (free) pricing service from my credit card company and it worked out well. Price was $600 below MSRP, and no nonsense dealer fee, etc. Similar pricing service is available from AAA, Costco, etc. I did not compare which one was lowest, but I would think the difference should be small.

[BlueDubbinTDI]

Pure price is bullshit. Goodluck.

[CruiseZen]

With Pure Pricing they can't lower the MSRP but they can discount dealer installed options. Many dealers will pad their profits by installing options once the car gets on their lot. If you find the right dealer you may be able to get these at a steep discount if the dealer wants to move the car.

[Celadrielas]

When I purchased my vehicle, I did what a lot are saying... I haggled on my trade in. Though I hated the dealership I ended up going with due to local rumor, and I did have issues with the dealership, I did feel positive about what I was paying.

I traded in my 2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i for $5,000 - it had less than 100,000 miles on it, but had pretty extensive damage to it from a dresser that fell off a moving truck less than a week prior. I didn't want to file a claim, so I just traded it in. What I traded for was a 2013 certified pre-owned asphalt 6spd MT. Fr-S had 10,679 miles on it when I bought and had that bullshit pile of shit stereo in it at the time.

I did the letter method as the person above. I sent letters to all dealers within 50 miles and stated I will consider all resonable offers on new or used, Then basically pitted the dealers against each other when I narrowed it down to 3 dealerships.

Ruben, my first sales guy, was a lying idiot. so I used that to my advantage when I threatened to walk. I was not nice to him at all. I got him to write me an offer, and then told him I would think about it. Came back two days later (since it really was the best offer after trade in) and told the next man, Chris, I would do business with him as long as I didn't have to even so much as see or look at Ruben. Then handed over the written, unsigned contract and said, "I want it lower."

After some haggling, I didn't get any lower price than the paper had ($18,500) but I did get a new set of tires, one extra year of registration (Now good through july of 2015), and the upgraded touch screen stereo, and a lower interest rate. After all taxes, licensing, gap, and the extended 100,000 mile warranty, my total was $21,151 @ 3.2% interest.


Your best bet, in my opinion, is to run multiple dealerships if you can and have patience, then pick the best price. If one dealer will do it, they all can on a similar deal. I only had the subaru for trade and no money down.

[Skurge]

i paid the full price, but mainly because at the time i bought mine, hot lava was just about impossible to find, it took them 2 months just to get one. so when it finally arrived, i bought it that day.

i probably could have gotten some sort of discount, seeing as the sales manager and finance manager are both friends of mine, i didn't want to put them in that situation, I know how toyota/scion is with discounting cars(i sold toyotas for almost 3 years)


either way, i'm happy with it. my car came off the truck and went right into the showroom after all of the stickers were taken off of it. i got to drive it right off the showroom floor with 5 miles on it

[FRSpappa]

Pure Price is nonsense! Shopped over the internet, got my 2014 Whiteout for $27k OTD two months ago. Had to drive an hour and a half to get the car but no BS at the dealer and was $2k cheaper than local.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Luke]

Originally Posted by Luke

I bought my FRS this past Tuesday and here's what I did to get a price I felt good about:

Didn't trade anything in, sold my last vehicle to a private party (sidenote: It was a 2007 Jeep Wrangler unlimited I bought new, worst buying experience I've ever had). Once it was sold, I did a search on Scion's website for all dealers within a 150 miles radius of my house. I typed up a letter explaining exactly the must haves on the car and that I was sending it to multiple dealers. I couldn't find an actual email on each dealer's website, so I had to use the "Contact Us" button (otherwise I would have sent a single email with all the dealers in the header). I filled out the least amount of information about me, only including my name, the car I was looking for, my email, and my phone (only when it forced me to), and pasted my letter in the "comments" section. Took me about 30-45 minutes to send it to all of them. Told them I would review all offers I received through the next three days, make a decision, then pick up the car a day or so after that.

A lot of dealers didn't even reply, some replied but wanted my phone number or for me to come to their dealership, but some read what I wrote and responded accordingly. There was two dealers that stood out with their price. I called the dealer with the best price, but they said the car was currently on a test drive, then called back and said it was sold (strange coincidence). The next lowest dealer said they didn't have it in stock, but could have it there in 48 hours. So I put down a deposit, they called me back 48 hours later and said they had it, went down the next day and picked it up. No changing of price once I arrived, no pressure on the extended warranty sales. Best car buying experience I've ever had. To promote them a bit, it was Toyota of Easley and I dealt with Kayla. She was very polite, every time I called with a question she answered her phone, was in contact with me before and after their business hours, always honest and straight.

For reference, the dealer closest to me was about $4k higher in price. So all in all, it took me about 7 hours worth of emails, phone calls, and driving to get the best price and save 4k. Yes, 7 hours is almost a full day's worth of work, but I was able to spread it over several days and do it as I wanted to, also the savings made it worth the time.

One other thing to add.

I didn't do it because I didn't think of it at the time, but you should probably setup a new email just for this. I get a lot of spam from some dealers now, most of them I can opt out of, but still annoying.

[hypercarfanatic]

Thanks for your advice everyone! I am going to the dealership, and will hopefully trade in my 7,000 mile F-150 for somewhere around 20K, and knock the price down to MRSB. One can hope right? :P

[VeezyF]

Originally Posted by hypercarfanatic

Thats what I thought. So, 2014 Raven FR-S Monogram (No add ons). MRSB is $28,155. Dealer is asking $29,500. What is the max I should pay? I was thinking $26,000 - $27,000 if I am lucky, otherwise $28K flat top price. Does that sound reasonable?

that is way too much. i always have them send me the sticker. it will show what they paid for it (MSRP) and then the Toyota distribution fee ... everything else is dealer add ons which is crap.

a 2014 automatic should be $26,000 msrp now. I just got a 2015 automatic hot lava for $26,650 -- the msrp price. the original dealer added their fees (outrageous) and totaled out to $30,999. no joke it was only clear coat thing and floor mats..

a 2015 BRZ BLUE SERIES comes out to $29,000 .. so don't pay that.

[VeezyF]

Originally Posted by Skurge

i paid the full price, but mainly because at the time i bought mine, hot lava was just about impossible to find, it took them 2 months just to get one. so when it finally arrived, i bought it that day.

i probably could have gotten some sort of discount, seeing as the sales manager and finance manager are both friends of mine, i didn't want to put them in that situation, I know how toyota/scion is with discounting cars(i sold toyotas for almost 3 years)



either way, i'm happy with it. my car came off the truck and went right into the showroom after all of the stickers were taken off of it. i got to drive it right off the showroom floor with 5 miles on it

what did you pay --- if you mind me asking? i was in the same boat -- i now got a 2015 hot lava for the MSRP -- and went to a NISSAN dealership to get the car actually. SCION is crap!

[Luke]

Originally Posted by VeezyF

that is way too much. i always have them send me the sticker. it will show what they paid for it (MSRP) and then the Toyota distribution fee ... everything else is dealer add ons which is crap.

a 2014 automatic should be $26,000 msrp now. I just got a 2015 automatic hot lava for $26,650 -- the msrp price. the original dealer added their fees (outrageous) and totaled out to $30,999. no joke it was only clear coat thing and floor mats..

a 2015 BRZ BLUE SERIES comes out to $29,000 .. so don't pay that.

I believe you're confusing some terms. MSRP is not what the dealer paid, it is the manufacturer suggested retail price. The dealer pays the manufacturer the invoice cost. Now, dealers can sell at invoice and still make a profit due incentives from the manufacturer.

[N1rve]

How pure pricing works is whatever the dealer posts, is what the price is. There is no haggling on the price or else it defeats the purpose of "pure pricing".

It means that all scions of the same spec are charged the same price on THAT dealer's lot. That means the next customer who buys the same car as you do from THAT dealer, will pay the same price as you did.

the only shopping around is different dealers can charge a different price. usually at msrp or above.

unless it's a model older... like a 13 MY in 2014, it will be lower in price. I snagged a 10 series for 30k OTD. MSRP was like 28000 something, they marked it down to 27000 something. 1500 off MSRP. However, ALL the 10 series on that lot was 1500 off. On top of that, add the college grad discount, etc etc.

[Jegan_V]

Originally Posted by hypercarfanatic

Thanks for your advice everyone! I am going to the dealership, and will hopefully trade in my 7,000 mile F-150 for somewhere around 20K, and knock the price down to MRSB. One can hope right? :P

Dealers are far more willing to negotiate with trade-ins, if it means profit for their dealership buying your vehicle while also netting you as a service customer they'll happily proceed with that. Knowing the retail value of your F-150 will be key to ensuring you get maximum value from it being a trade-in.

[Kilfer]

They can go below if they feel it necessary.

I got my car 3 days ago. I had a dealer who gave me 1600 off msrp on any 14 model.
Other dealerships I went to pulled the "pure price" bullshit, and as soon as I said that this other dealership offered me 1600 off, they paled slightly and offered me 1000 off.

With that said it's easiest to have a foothold. If you can get one dealership to give you a discount, you can use that amount as a benchmark for other dealerships to beat or match.

Good luck!