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Old 07-07-2014, 09:57 PM   #15
MFB
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BRZedit

After flashing, just look at Afr sensor ohms and make to settle before doing a run. I've seen the same before with the subarus on the mainline. @steve99 whats a partial write?


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Old 07-08-2014, 12:12 AM   #16
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After flashing, just look at Afr sensor ohms and make to settle before doing a run. I've seen the same before with the subarus on the mainline. @steve99 whats a partial write?


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Dont have brzedit myself use ecuflash , read somwhere brzedit could do partial write of a rom blocks changed instead of erasing entire area and re writing entite 1280k bytes could be a load of BS though
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:22 AM   #17
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I'll ask @epifan that, seems like a real time saver :-)


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Old 07-08-2014, 07:35 AM   #18
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Thanks for the info guys. So.. The cams don't come back after a flash just letting it idle / warm up etc. Idle for 30 seconds or so and drive for 30 seconds and they are back. Drive it on a hub dyno and the don't work, but drive it on a mainline (roller) and they are all good.. Interesting.
On another topic I had sine time on the dyne with the Motec M150 on the weekend. So good and to easy with live tuning...
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:00 PM   #19
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Thanks for the info guys. So.. The cams don't come back after a flash just letting it idle / warm up etc. Idle for 30 seconds or so and drive for 30 seconds and they are back. Drive it on a hub dyno and the don't work, but drive it on a mainline (roller) and they are all good.. Interesting.
On another topic I had sine time on the dyne with the Motec M150 on the weekend. So good and to easy with live tuning...


I bet there's something you're missing out on. If I flash and the car's not warm enough, once the oil temp is up to temperature, you then have to stop the car and let it idle and then they will become active. Just rolling wheels at idle doesn't work as I've tried that.
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