Best Break-in Procedure

[SkullWorks]

here's a thought, unless there are break in police they have to replace my motor if it goes to shit regardless...aslong as it goes before i turbo it...

[Marrk]

Originally Posted by SkullWorks

here's a thought, unless there are break in police they have to replace my motor if it goes to shit regardless...aslong as it goes before i turbo it...

That is, if they don't down download your driving data history from the ECU. If they do, I suppose they could establish that you abused the car and, in doing so, voided your warranty.

[zoomzoomers]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

I don't understand why people want to second guess the OEM engineers when it comes to something as complex and with so many unknown details as an engine. Only they know what's done to the engines before they're put into the cars, and if they recommend something and back it up with a warranty, why are you going to try to undo everything Makes no sense.

It's not like an aero mod where you put a skirt here, put a cover there, it's a freaking engine that's worth more than any other part on the car.

[Baldeagle]

I understand the rings must seat relatively early in the engine’s life, like within the first 50 miles. How quickly do rings seat? Would five full-throttle pulls from 2,000 to 4,000 rpm in 5th gear do the trick? After one has driven the engine hard during the first few miles, can it be assumed the rings are set and that one can then baby the engine for the next 1,000 miles?

[ahausheer]

Can anyone show any real study other than an old motorcycle website and singular anecdotal data that suggests breaking in a CAR (not an engine because the engine is in the car and you are breaking in the car not JUST the engine) is better than anything else? I doubt it.

[mrtodd]

Originally Posted by ahausheer

Can anyone show any real study other than an old motorcycle website and singular anecdotal data that suggests breaking in a CAR (not an engine because the engine is in the car and you are breaking in the car not JUST the engine) is better than anything else? I doubt it.

Aside from the engine, what other part(s) of the CAR do you think needs to be broken in as per manufacturer's guidelines?

The only thing I can think of would be the transmission and differential. Which begs the question, why would car manuals state that you should not keep engine rev's consistent? This should have no effect on the transmission in terms of friction.

Even so, you don't need to be dumping the clutch at WOT and redlining 1-6 gears to put enough load on the engine for the compression & oil control rings to aggressively seat within the first few miles.

Read my previous post about what's actually going on in the first few miles in regards to ring seat. I understand that you're doubtful, but I have yet to read any solid reasoning behind your skepticism - which is totally fine, I'm just attempting to answer your questions. Either way, feel free to baby your car for the first 1k+ miles, nobody will argue with you nor bother you about it, and I'm sure it will break in just fine. However, I'm just saying that it can be even better...

[Jimbo]

I don't know about you guys, but I always put a few teaspoons of Comet (tm) brand cleanser into the crankcase of all my new cars. It makes all the difference in the world. Really helps to seat the rings. A few globs of the Red DuPont Polishing compound couldn't hurt either.

Why don't we talk about what waxes are best next? Zaino?

-Jim

[uspspro]

Originally Posted by Jimbo

I don't know about you guys, but I always put a few teaspoons of Comet (tm) brand cleanser into the crankcase of all my new cars. It makes all the difference in the world. Really helps to seat the rings. A few globs of the Red DuPont Polishing compound couldn't hurt either.

Why don't we talk about what waxes are best next? Zaino?

-Jim

[2jzge]

Originally Posted by Marrk

This s a longstanding mystery, Bald. It's hard to believe that a volume manufacturer, like Toyota or GM, is bench testing and bench-breaking-in each and every one of the hundreds of thousands of engines that it produces each year. Maybe M-B or Porsche do it on some of their models. On the other hand, I suppose they could fire each engine up for a few seconds, once it reaches the end of the production line, just to look for major leaks, etc.

I do not know. This is akin to that other great mystery, i.e., Is there such a thing as break-in oil from the factory?

Hey Marrk,

You maybe surprised to know that at one Toyota facility they used to test fire (break in) every AZ engine.

Most GR's currently being manufactured are dry fired, meaning they are fully lubricated and revved to redline but without fuel. This is the end of the line production check. But this is hardly the first time they check for quality issues along the production line.

When an audit engine is brought into the performance testing room and put tested on a dyno it is first brought up to temperature. Then the factory worker continues with the performance test. Loading it at different RPM's and recording key performance indicators. The total test takes about 2-3 hours. It is then completely disassembled and inspected for quality issues. Then reassembled and shipped off.

I have never heard of break-in oil.

More relevant information:

After rebuilding any 13B's, 2JZ, or VQs we would burp the coolant and listen and visually inspect during start up. Then it went onto the dyno for tuning. Hopefully hitting 500,600, and 700 whp. Without break in.

[mrtodd]

Originally Posted by 2jzge

I have never heard of break-in oil.

You wouldn't consider the relatively high moly factory fill in Hondas a "break-in" oil?

Also, products like this....

[2jzge]

Originally Posted by mrtodd

You wouldn't consider the relatively high moly factory fill in Hondas a "break-in" oil?

Also, products like this....

First I have heard of it.

I can confirm later this week.

[mrtodd]

I really don't know if such things are proven, though. Who knows if it really makes a difference...

[Marrk]

Originally Posted by mrtodd

You wouldn't consider the relatively high moly factory fill in Hondas a "break-in" oil?

Also, products like this....

Some argue that the moly is from lube that is used in assembling the engine and has not much to do with break-in per se.

The only thing we know for sure is that some manufacturers, like Honda, advise in the Owner's Manuals of their vehicles not to change the factory oil until the first service (usually 7,500 miles). My question is: Why? Is it because the factory oil is special in some way? Is it because the factory does not want some eager beaver new owner to swap in fully synthetic oil too early in the life of the engine?

[Subaruwrxfan]

Originally Posted by Marrk

The only thing we know for sure is that some manufacturers, like Honda, advise in the Owner's Manuals of their vehicles not to change the factory oil until the first service (usually 7,500 miles). My question is: Why? Is it because the factory oil is special in some way? Is it because the factory does not want some eager beaver new owner to swap in fully synthetic oil too early in the life of the engine?

If I remember correctly, the BRZ owners manual says nothing about changing the oil after the break in procedure, so I'm assuming they either don't care or they assume people won't change it till the first normal service at 3,750 miles.