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Old 06-11-2014, 06:47 PM   #43
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I was looking at their op and dp too, thinking I might have to go that route when I'm ready to buy. Just bought the Perrin 3.0" CBE this last weekend, so it will be a little while.

Looking forward to seeing your results after a tune. Do you have a build thread?
No, but I should probably stop being lazy and put one up. I don't have anything too exotic or extravagant done. I'll make one tonight and throw PM a link.
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Old 06-12-2014, 12:58 PM   #44
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Nameless got back to me with what in retrospect is a no brainer.

1. Loosen engine mounts.
2. Shift drivers side of engine down a little (raising the passenger side) should not take much
3. No contact!
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:32 PM   #45
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So... Pipe doesn't fit.. Move the engine?

Also, isn't that just the instructions for installation? You still need to tighten the engine mounts back down, at which point the engine would be in it's [engineered] original location. Not sure how you would adjust the height of each side.
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:56 PM   #46
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I had the same issue with my nameless overpipe combo. Fitment was awful. I loosed up everything and started torquing everything down from the header back. Still was off. Once I got the header overpipe connection tight the support bracket for the front pipe was way off. Had to really force the pipe to line up with the bracket.
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:03 PM   #47
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The engine mount bolts go through wide slots on the frame, there is a lot of opportunity for left/right adjustment.

The amount of the adjustment required is not much at all. Essentially you're compensating for the left/right slop that already exists to favor the passenger side having more clearance on that pipe.
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:07 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozone42 View Post
The engine mount bolts go through wide slots on the frame, there is a lot of opportunity for left/right adjustment.

The amount of the adjustment required is not much at all. Essentially you're compensating for the left/right slop that already exists to favor the passenger side having more clearance on that pipe.
Are you suggesting we move the motor left/right on it's engine mounts to give more space for the exhaust?
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Old: 2013 6AT Boosted Firestorm..
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:13 PM   #49
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I had seen this thread but didn't flip through it until now. This is disappointing as I was planning on getting the 2.5" OP/FP combo and probably the FT86SF header, but I'm nervous about it not fitting properly.
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:49 PM   #50
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Quote:
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The engine mount bolts go through wide slots on the frame, there is a lot of opportunity for left/right adjustment.

The amount of the adjustment required is not much at all. Essentially you're compensating for the left/right slop that already exists to favor the passenger side having more clearance on that pipe.
I can't imagine why this would ever be necessary.
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Old 06-12-2014, 03:17 PM   #51
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Are you suggesting we move the motor left/right on it's engine mounts to give more space for the exhaust?
Yes, where the mounts affix to the frame. Anyone who has unbolted the engine and jacked it up has probably already shifted this slightly within the slots to begin with.

We're not talking about a big change here, millimeters. The engine moves around more than this in normal operation due to give in the mounts.

It might be that I'm lucky and my fit is almost perfect to begin with. In my case, firmer engine mounts would solve the issue entirely. I have no contact at rest. I don't want to add firmer mounts and introduce more NVH, so this is a great fix for me.
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:10 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozone42 View Post
Yes, where the mounts affix to the frame. Anyone who has unbolted the engine and jacked it up has probably already shifted this slightly within the slots to begin with.

We're not talking about a big change here, millimeters. The engine moves around more than this in normal operation due to give in the mounts.

It might be that I'm lucky and my fit is almost perfect to begin with. In my case, firmer engine mounts would solve the issue entirely. I have no contact at rest. I don't want to add firmer mounts and introduce more NVH, so this is a great fix for me.
Your issue was the over / front pipe hitting he subframe correct? I can see how this would help for that, but for those of usfor whom the pipe is hitting the corner of the head.. not so much i think, unless you have all the connections torqued except the engine mounts and then manage to move the motor in a way that puts some bend on the pipe.

sucks to have to deal with fitment issues from a company that claims to care so much about quality. I will admit the welds look nice, but there is more to quality than pretty welds.
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:02 PM   #53
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I just want to add clarity here with a photo. I had to 'dent' the bottom section:

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Old: 2013 6AT Boosted Firestorm..
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:33 PM   #54
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Looks like a pretty smooth 'dent' there!
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:35 PM   #55
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Looks like a pretty smooth 'dent' there!
Pic is pre-dent surgery. This was a pic I sent Nameless to explain my issue (at the time).
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Old: 2013 6AT Boosted Firestorm..
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Old 06-13-2014, 04:47 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by itdansharpe View Post
Pic is pre-dent surgery. This was a pic I sent Nameless to explain my issue (at the time).
take one after dent surgery please, can you circle the area it was hitting, is not easy for noob like me to understand correctly ehehe
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