New Hawk HP + compound

[renfield90]

I suck at multiquoting, but yes I boiled the fluid and the pedal was almost hitting the floor. This video (NSFW due to language) shows what happens if you blow through turn 2 and don't brake enough for turn 3: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsxVcjpQ80E"]Some dude crashing at Firebird West Raceway - YouTube[/ame]

Needless to say I don't need that.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Side note: If you're boiling RBF600, which is really, really common, it really means your brakes are inadequate for you use. You're heating up the caliper more than it is designed for, and in the long run, will result in fatigue. The solution (albeit expensive up front) is a BBK. I've learned this the hard way...

Fully agree. Unfortunately, autocross is my primary competitive focus and the class I'm in doesn't allow an upgrade in rotors, so if I want to enjoy the occasional track day I need to make the stock system work somehow.

What was suggested to me was that I overheated the HP+ - not enough to induce brake fade, but enough to force me to use more brake pedal to achieve the same amount of deceleration. The longer drag on the brakes plus the inadequate rotors then allowed the RBF600 to boil. Really, the proper root cause identification here involves better data about what temps I'm actually seeing with the rotors and pads, but Hawk tech support was supremely unhelpful in that regard.

I've used the HP+ for years on my old Celica, and they worked fine for track days because the rotors were well oversized for the weight/horsepower of the car. They just don't cut it with the FR-S.

Mike, you may not like RBF600, but I'll have a fresh batch in with whatever pad I choose to run next track day and we shall see.

[CSG Mike]

Don't get me wrong. I don't dislike RBF600. Rather, I use it as a diagnostic tool. A properly sized brake system will not boil or deteriorate RBF600, whereas a system too small will. However, I'll steer people who are looking for RBF660 another direction; there are better fluids at the RBF660 price point.

[Deep Six]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Don't get me wrong. I don't dislike RBF600. Rather, I use it as a diagnostic tool. A properly sized brake system will not boil or deteriorate RBF600, whereas a system too small will. However, I'll steer people who are looking for RBF660 another direction; there are better fluids at the RBF660 price point.

Could you PM me your recomendation and price for fluid and track only pads (F&R). I ran HP+ for 2 weekends and they were too weak for the track and too loud and dirty for the 3 months in between. I have the oems back in and will swap each time from now on. Work is keeping track days at a minimum so far this year but that will change in a few months. Maybe later it will be time for an Apex kit if there is a street pad available that won't drive my wife crazy.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Deep Six

Could you PM me your recomendation and price for fluid and track only pads (F&R). I ran HP+ for 2 weekends and they were too weak for the track and too loud and dirty for the 3 months in between. I have the oems back in and will swap each time from now on. Work is keeping track days at a minimum so far this year but that will change in a few months. Maybe later it will be time for an Apex kit if there is a street pad available that won't drive my wife crazy.

I'm not surprised; you're running some serious tires.

Do you have brake ducts? I'm assuming you have prior experience?

[ZDan]

I just ran a set of brand new HP+ pads at New Hampshire Motor Speedway (south oval/north chicane) over the weekend. I swear they must be the new compound, because they don't squeal like mad and don't dust anything like HP+ always have for me.

BUT, they also didn't have anything like the initial grab and very high c.f. that I loved about the HP+, and they also seemed to give up a bit over the course of a session and over the course of the weekend.

I'll go back to Carbotech XP8 for somewhat streetable track pads.

[D_Thissen]

Did a quick search, but didn't find anything. Has anyone tried the new Hawk 5.0's?

[Thorpedo]

The site only lists the 5.0 in rears for our cars.

[ExxelDistributions]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Remember RBF600 boils at around 600F, but the pads give out at 900F. If the heat impulses are 200F at a time, you can boil the fluid, without having the pads give out.

Either way, we don't recommend RBF600 or HP+ for the stock braking system.

.

Since you don't recommend the RBF600 for stock braking system what would you recommend we use if we have stock brakes. Is it better to run the stock fluid or use something else?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by revolutioN21

Since you don't recommend the RBF600 for stock braking system what would you recommend we use if we have stock brakes. Is it better to run the stock fluid or use something else?

You really shouldn't be tracking on the stock pads and fluid at all.

If you only do one but not the other, you're most likely going to be ending your day unhappily.

Get at lease upgraded pads and project mu g-four or torque rt700

[renfield90]

I boiled the stock fluid at an autocross. It's probably the cheapest DOT 3 they could get their hands on - good enough for the hair dressers who bought the car 'cause it's cute.

For that matter, your average bottle from Autozone with "exceeds DOT 3 and 4" exclamations all over it is going to be crap at the track as well.

Don't skimp on your brakes and they will always be there when you need them.

[ExxelDistributions]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You really shouldn't be tracking on the stock pads and fluid at all.

If you only do one but not the other, you're most likely going to be ending your day unhappily.

Get at lease upgraded pads and project mu g-four or torque rt700

So I am going to be tracking this weekend for my first time. I had ordered the RBF600 and was going to change the fluid. Not sure if I can get pads in time to be able to track with upgraded pads.