Re-evaluating 0w20

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Now that I am on my second Supercharged UOA on Redline with 6700 (winter and pre-summer) miles which included track and autox time unless you have a turbo or your car is a dedicated track machine, appears 0w20 is the oil to use.

Keep in mind that you can't compare Red Line 0W-20 to other 0W-20's, except for maybe 300V. The viscosity on that is better than the used oil viscosity on most GF5 5W-30 uoa's from a WRX.

According to this particular voa, RL uses around 33 ppm of silicon in their 0W-20 (different lab).
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1630856

So I guess you could say your real silicon reading is ~10-~15 ppm's. That TBN is nice!! 7,500+ mile oci's easy! No doubt the TBN is helped by RL's very generous amount of calcium for detergency.

-Dennis

[kavanagh]

Lot of smart people in here. I'm not one of them when it comes to this level of oil analysis.

I'm just trying to figure out what oil I should run in Phoenix during the summer in a NA car with minimal bolt ons that sees the track for HPDE one weekend a month without an oil cooler yet.
In our bikes (CBR1000RR and GSXR 750) we run a slightly heavier oil in the summer and we can feel it's better. But this is our first flat four...


Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks

[Nasty Sausage]

Kavanaugh, please read this. It's the bible as far as oil goes, in my opinion: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

It sounds like what you may want is a 0w30 for your environment. Flow is more important than oil thickness Here is a technical data sheet for Amsoil. I hate the ponzi bullshit, but they do have a superior product: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf

I guess the most important thing to remember is that flow equals lubrication, not pressure, and generally a thicker oil flows less well.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Nasty Sausage

Kavanaugh, please read this. It's the bible as far as oil goes, in my opinion: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

It sounds like what you may want is a 0w30 for your environment. Flow is more important than oil thickness Here is a technical data sheet for Amsoil. I hate the ponzi bullshit, but they do have a superior product: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf

I guess the most important thing to remember is that flow equals lubrication, not pressure, and generally a thicker oil flows less well.

I definitely would not call an oil article written by a plastic surgeon a bible.

Some of it is not accurate and some is outdated:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3294902/1/Dr_Haas'_Motor_Oil_University_

Regarding Amsoil, I'd pick the 5W-20 over the 0W-30 Signature Series any day. There's not a huge difference in viscosity at 100C, the HTHS of the 5W-20 is nearly the same as many 30 weights (2.8 vs 2.9 minimum for xW-30), less viscosity modifers (narrower viscosity range) usually means a more stable oil, and the 5W-20 as a much better NOACK volatility.

kavanagh - You cannot always determine that an oil is "heavier" by the grade on the bottle. Kinematic viscosity and HTHS play a part as well as the operational viscosity that the oil has in an engine.

As I mentioned in Dezoris's analysis reply above, many xW-30 oils shear to a 20 grade so you're not always gaining a thicker operational viscosity and better bearing protection by running 0W-30 or 5W-30.

-Dennis

[Nasty Sausage]

Thanks Dennis!

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

At this point if you have an NA car I see absolutely zero reason at this point to switch from 0w20.

Now that I am on my second Supercharged UOA on Redline with 6700 (winter and pre-summer) miles which included track and autox time unless you have a turbo or your car is a dedicated track machine, appears 0w20 is the oil to use.

The only gotcha here is you should absolutely run an oil cooler for any track time. But until someone else shows any quality proof I don't see any reason to run a 0w30/5w30.


Redline 0w20 | 6700 Miles on Sample
2 Hours Track Time, 50 Autox Runs | 2000 Mile Road Trip
RESULTS: VERY GOOD
POTENTIAL: Running 10,000 Miles in between changes

quick question about the oil analysis (might be a stupid question) I know the levels of the certain elements are there but does that tell us something about how effectively it protects the engine internals at certain temps (say for instance 270F)? As I see these types of oil analysis, I can say that the oil didn't dissolve but when comparing to a higher viscosity engine to see which one provides better lubrication it is not there, then again I am not arguing I am just trying to find the best indicator of the actual protection/lubrication for tracked FI engines ..maybe, just maybe the oil analysis are just simply the analysis of the oils but unless we tear the engines after a certain miles (boosted or not) we can never make sure the real effects..

Also, I have been using 0w-40 ever since I owned this car I wonder if it also may cause higher oil temps since some people report lower oil temps with similar setup (OEM oil cooler and SC kit) ..maybe I can try 0w-30 next time since someone else mentioned Rotrex uses its own oil feeding/cooling system unlike turbos

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by glamcem

quick question about the oil analysis (might be a stupid question) I know the levels of the certain elements are there but does that tell us something about how effectively it protects the engine internals at certain temps (say for instance 270F)? As I see these types of oil analysis, I can say that the oil didn't dissolve but when comparing to a higher viscosity engine to see which one provides better lubrication it is not there, then again I am not arguing I am just trying to find the best indicator of the actual protection/lubrication for tracked FI engines ..maybe, just maybe the oil analysis are just simply the analysis of the oils but unless we tear the engines after a certain miles (boosted or not) we can never make sure the real effects..

Also, I have been using 0w-40 ever since I owned this car I wonder if it also may cause higher oil temps since some people report lower oil temps with similar setup (OEM oil cooler and SC kit) ..maybe I can try 0w-30 next time since someone else mentioned Rotrex uses its own oil feeding/cooling system unlike turbos

IMO, you should only use 0W-40 if you have a built engine with bearing clearances designed for 0W-40. Yes, an oil analysis tells you the condition of the oil, whether or not the oil is suitable for continued use (if you get a TBN), whether or not your air filter is doing a good job, whether or not the viscosity is ok for your application, and can sometimes spot hidden mechanical problems. For example, if the viscosity isn't thick enough for the application, you could have high chromium and/or aluminum wear. Some free flowing air filters may not filter effectively and a uoa might show high silicon and this could lead to bearing wear.

It's not always that useful for determining engine wear and never useful to try to compare one oil against another.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/

-Dennis