Full Blown Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Brzzee

Some pics with text on your radiator mount modification, please.

I know he took pics and wrote a description somewhere on the forum. Perhaps in the Combating the Heat thread.

[PandaSPUR]

Hi guys!

So I'm a newbie, and I do not have a twin or any car at all yet. I'm shopping around and doing my research. I plan to keep whatever car I get for an indefinitely long amount of time, so I want to know how much potential a car really has. Which is why I'm looking at this thread already lol.

I've been reading this thread in my spare time, post by post. Got up to page 44 so far lol, lots of good information. And I noticed that FBM (or LJ, the owner?) has been improving the kit as problems are found.

So I have a few questions:
1. Whats the situation with heat like now? I see that the shroud is being sold for $200 as a separate piece, and people seem to switch to Spal fans. I find it odd that the kits dont come with these things included. Is it because the heat issue is mainly evident only during track use?

2. I live in NYC and while temps are low most of the year, the summers feel terrible with 90F+ and high humidity. So I'd really like my airconditioner to work... Again, I've read a lot of varying reports about this. It seems like the AC definitely blows warm air when the car isn't moving. Could that be fixed by adding a smaller fan on the condenser? I work with watercooling PCs, so that was my first thought lol.

3. I don't understand the difference between Stage 1 and Stage 2 kits. The premium stage 1 costs pretty much the same as the Stage 2 and the main difference seems to be the intercooler and fuel injectors. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to just go straight for Stage 2 and keep it at low boost until I'm ready?

4. I'm a huge DIY type of person. I would love to be able to install a FBM kit by myself but my resources are limited. How feasible is it to attempt this when all I have is a driveway? I'd probably have to work in small steps since I cant leave my car disassembled out in the open lol.
I've read some build logs and they vary from do-able to scary. The fact that these kits are constantly being improved also made me want to ask this question. If everything really is a bolt-on fit at this point, that would make me feel better.

Sorry if some of these questions are repetitive, I've read through about half this thread and a few other threads already, but I haven't read everything unfortunately.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Brzzee

Some pics with text on your radiator mount modification, please.

Here is some info from @Ironsquid :

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57792

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Hi guys!

So I'm a newbie, and I do not have a twin or any car at all yet. I'm shopping around and doing my research. I plan to keep whatever car I get for an indefinitely long amount of time, so I want to know how much potential a car really has. Which is why I'm looking at this thread already lol.

I've been reading this thread in my spare time, post by post. Got up to page 44 so far lol, lots of good information. And I noticed that FBM (or LJ, the owner?) has been improving the kit as problems are found.

So I have a few questions:
1. Whats the situation with heat like now? I see that the shroud is being sold for $200 as a separate piece, and people seem to switch to Spal fans. I find it odd that the kits dont come with these things included. Is it because the heat issue is mainly evident only during track use?

2. I live in NYC and while temps are low most of the year, the summers feel terrible with 90F+ and high humidity. So I'd really like my airconditioner to work... Again, I've read a lot of varying reports about this. It seems like the AC definitely blows warm air when the car isn't moving. Could that be fixed by adding a smaller fan on the condenser? I work with watercooling PCs, so that was my first thought lol.

3. I don't understand the difference between Stage 1 and Stage 2 kits. The premium stage 1 costs pretty much the same as the Stage 2 and the main difference seems to be the intercooler and fuel injectors. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to just go straight for Stage 2 and keep it at low boost until I'm ready?

4. I'm a huge DIY type of person. I would love to be able to install a FBM kit by myself but my resources are limited. How feasible is it to attempt this when all I have is a driveway? I'd probably have to work in small steps since I cant leave my car disassembled out in the open lol.
I've read some build logs and they vary from do-able to scary. The fact that these kits are constantly being improved also made me want to ask this question. If everything really is a bolt-on fit at this point, that would make me feel better.

Sorry if some of these questions are repetitive, I've read through about half this thread and a few other threads already, but I haven't read everything unfortunately.

1. The cheap slim fans and non shroud was sufficient for my use on the street in Florida. They never melted nor failed to work and the only issue was when in stop and go traffic or in a fast food drive thru line they were not able to pull enough cool air across the radiator or the A/C condensor and the temps would rise a little bit before stabalizing and the A/C would stop blowing cold. All other times the temps and A/C worked fine.

2. I think an additional pusher fan on the A/C condensor would probably help in the situations I mentioned above.

3. Stage 1 is really meant for the GT/X28 - GT/X30 builds and the Stage 2 is more for the GT/X35 and big horsepower guys. If you don't need the bigger injectors for running E85 or the larger intercooler to keep the higher PSI levels cool, then stick with the Stage 1.

4. If you get a prewelded oil pan from LJ @FullBlown then I would say it is 100% a DIY install affair with nothing more difficult than drilling out a few holes or doing some simple wiring and fab for the fuel pump install. You need something to cut the plastic for the intercooler piping as well.

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by King Tut

1. The cheap slim fans and non shroud was sufficient for my use on the street in Florida. They never melted nor failed to work and the only issue was when in stop and go traffic or in a fast food drive thru line they were not able to pull enough cool air across the radiator or the A/C condensor and the temps would rise a little bit before stabalizing and the A/C would stop blowing cold. All other times the temps and A/C worked fine.

2. I think an additional pusher fan on the A/C condensor would probably help in the situations I mentioned above.

3. Stage 1 is really meant for the GT/X28 - GT/X30 builds and the Stage 2 is more for the GT/X35 and big horsepower guys. If you don't need the bigger injectors for running E85 or the larger intercooler to keep the higher PSI levels cool, then stick with the Stage 1.

4. If you get a prewelded oil pan from LJ @FullBlown then I would say it is 100% a DIY install affair with nothing more difficult than drilling out a few holes or doing some simple wiring and fab for the fuel pump install. You need something to cut the plastic for the intercooler piping as well.

Thanks for the quick reply!

1 and 2. So I'll be fine in NYC weather then, very glad to hear that.

3. I guess I understand what the difference is between the two. I just dont see why going with the bigger IC and injectors from the start would be a bad idea. If I want 300whp, Stage 1 will get me there, but so could Stage 2 at the same price and with more room for growth. I'm missing something right?

4. What fabrication is needed for the fuel pump? I dont have any welding or other specialty equipment, so I'm glad to hear that I can get the oil pan pre-made. I read about your fuel pump install in your build log, and that definitely did seem confusing to me.

[Dipstik-sportech]

You can also get their cast aluminium oil pan with the bung for the oil return built in. I haven't had any issues with the base kits slim fans but I still plan to get the shroud combo for extra security.

The Frozen North

[FullBlown]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Thanks for the quick reply!

1 and 2. So I'll be fine in NYC weather then, very glad to hear that.

3. I guess I understand what the difference is between the two. I just dont see why going with the bigger IC and injectors from the start would be a bad idea. If I want 300whp, Stage 1 will get me there, but so could Stage 2 at the same price and with more room for growth. I'm missing something right?

4. What fabrication is needed for the fuel pump? I dont have any welding or other specialty equipment, so I'm glad to hear that I can get the oil pan pre-made. I read about your fuel pump install in your build log, and that definitely did seem confusing to me.

The difference from the stage 1 and 2 is the the intercooler, turbo and injectors. The stage 2 comes with a gtx35. We can custom tailor a kit for you with say a gt28 or gt30 turbo and the bigger intercooler, injectors if you want.

As far as bolt on, we have cast oil pans ready to go. No need to weld at all.

[pmccut]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Hi guys!

So I'm a newbie, and I do not have a twin or any car at all yet. I'm shopping around and doing my research. I plan to keep whatever car I get for an indefinitely long amount of time, so I want to know how much potential a car really has. Which is why I'm looking at this thread already lol.

I've been reading this thread in my spare time, post by post. Got up to page 44 so far lol, lots of good information. And I noticed that FBM (or LJ, the owner?) has been improving the kit as problems are found.

So I have a few questions:
1. Whats the situation with heat like now? I see that the shroud is being sold for $200 as a separate piece, and people seem to switch to Spal fans. I find it odd that the kits dont come with these things included. Is it because the heat issue is mainly evident only during track use?

2. I live in NYC and while temps are low most of the year, the summers feel terrible with 90F+ and high humidity. So I'd really like my airconditioner to work... Again, I've read a lot of varying reports about this. It seems like the AC definitely blows warm air when the car isn't moving. Could that be fixed by adding a smaller fan on the condenser? I work with watercooling PCs, so that was my first thought lol.

3. I don't understand the difference between Stage 1 and Stage 2 kits. The premium stage 1 costs pretty much the same as the Stage 2 and the main difference seems to be the intercooler and fuel injectors. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to just go straight for Stage 2 and keep it at low boost until I'm ready?

4. I'm a huge DIY type of person. I would love to be able to install a FBM kit by myself but my resources are limited. How feasible is it to attempt this when all I have is a driveway? I'd probably have to work in small steps since I cant leave my car disassembled out in the open lol.
I've read some build logs and they vary from do-able to scary. The fact that these kits are constantly being improved also made me want to ask this question. If everything really is a bolt-on fit at this point, that would make me feel better.

Sorry if some of these questions are repetitive, I've read through about half this thread and a few other threads already, but I haven't read everything unfortunately.

I have the base kit and had issues with cooling in NorCal weather, which is quite mild - low 80s are typical. In stop and go traffic A/C would blow hot, and pushing it on mountain roads would see uncomfortable temps, even at night when it was in the 50s.

@FullBlown installed their radiator and oil cooler on the car which made it better, but the temps would still rise quite a bit on fun drives. I took it to the track in quite cold weather and it really didn't go well at all. A couple laps in and I'd have to do a cool-down lap.

Next step was the SPAL fans + shrouding, and ceramic coating everything in sight. Headers, dump tube, OP, DP, and turbo blanket. This made the biggest difference. I have yet to see the dial move. I'm planning to take it back to the same track in a month and see how it goes.

TL;DR do everything the first time.

[Brzzee]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Here is some info from @Ironsquid :

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57792

Exactly what I was looking for to visualize the upper radiator support brackets. Big thanks!

Hope your new ride is everything you hoped it would be.

I'm still on the Weds and MPSS drawing nice complements wherever I happen to be.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Brzzee

Exactly what I was looking for to visualize the upper radiator support brackets. Big thanks!

Hope your new ride is everything you hoped it would be.

I'm still on the Weds and MPSS drawing nice complements wherever I happen to be.

In the end with the rubbing issues I had, I wish I had just kept my Weds and 245 MPSS and dealed with less traction. I might go with Weds again on my next ride.

[mike the snake]

In the pics in the link, Ironsquid drilled holes forward in the grommets.

What I did was drill new holes well in front of the grommets, into the metal frame, over an inch forward. This gains a LOT more clearance.

Drilling holes forward in the grommet only gains you 1/4''-3/8''.

Drilling new holes in front of the grommets gains 1.5''-2'' clearance.

New holes for the mounting posts, and some small tabs of rubber between the frame and radiator is all that's needed.

Originally Posted by King Tut

Here is some info from @Ironsquid :

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57792

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by FullBlown

The difference from the stage 1 and 2 is the the intercooler, turbo and injectors. The stage 2 comes with a gtx35. We can custom tailor a kit for you with say a gt28 or gt30 turbo and the bigger intercooler, injectors if you want.

As far as bolt on, we have cast oil pans ready to go. No need to weld at all.

That sounds good, so then I could just swap out the turbo itself if I ever want more power. And good to know I dont need to weld lol. Thanks

Originally Posted by pmccut

I have the base kit and had issues with cooling in NorCal weather, which is quite mild - low 80s are typical. In stop and go traffic A/C would blow hot, and pushing it on mountain roads would see uncomfortable temps, even at night when it was in the 50s.

@FullBlown installed their radiator and oil cooler on the car which made it better, but the temps would still rise quite a bit on fun drives. I took it to the track in quite cold weather and it really didn't go well at all. A couple laps in and I'd have to do a cool-down lap.

Next step was the SPAL fans + shrouding, and ceramic coating everything in sight. Headers, dump tube, OP, DP, and turbo blanket. This made the biggest difference. I have yet to see the dial move. I'm planning to take it back to the same track in a month and see how it goes.

TL;DR do everything the first time.

Hmm i see. So yea it sounds like I should definitely at least opt for ceramic coating at the time of purchase, that seems like the most annoying thing to change later.

I'll probably upgrade the rad and add the oil cooler first if I do end up buying a twin. Thanks

[69Marshall69]

I took apart my BOV and had a brown 13psi spring. I'm connecting the boost gauge side of my wideband failsafe this weekend to find out what I'm running for vacuum. I ordered a 10psi spring(white) and see if it will release properly.

[Dipstik-sportech]

Brown is a -12psi and a white is a -9psi. Remember we don't have the bv50 we have the Q so some of the numbers are different. I need to order a white cause I'm low compression and I draw less vacuum.

The Frozen North