Is this a good deal?

[marc615243]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

what dealership in AZ are you speaking with?

Spoke with Peoria Subaru, Camelback Subaru, Autonation Subaru in Scottsdale, and Subaru Superstore in Chandler.

[marc615243]

Spoke with the dealer a little bit ago and the final price he says he can do is $30000 all fees and tax included. Seems quite reasonable to me.

This is without a trade in.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by marc615243

Spoke with Peoria Subaru, Camelback Subaru, Autonation Subaru in Scottsdale, and Subaru Superstore in Chandler.

I bought all my cars (save my 05 Forester, which was bought back in VA) from Camelback Subaru.

Last I was there, they had a gorgeous WRB Limited on the lot.

Btw, that $30k even won't include the service agreements they're going to try and get you to buy. But $30k even with AZ's tax and reg fees (which are NOT cheap, especially registration) isn't bad for a limited BRZ.

If the other dealerships can't (or won't) beat that one, I say take it. Then again, you're buying in the middle of the month. You could probably get a better deal if you hold off till the very end of the month. The limiteds don't sell as fast, so that one could still be available and he might be getting desperate to sell then.

[gramicci101]

Service packages and maintenance agreements and warranties are all price negotiable as well. The fight isn't done until you sign on the line.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Service packages and maintenance agreements and warranties are all price negotiable as well. The fight isn't done until you sign on the line.

Exactly, and finance percentage isn't even garaunteed until the bank itself says "yes" to the dealer's offer. That happened to me, where the dealership finance department gave the thumbs up on one apr number, but the bank said "no" and went higher. I had to go back and sign a new form (2 weeks after I'd bought the brz), but the finance manager (b/c I was a repeat customer and a good one) fiddled with the service agreement numbers to keep my monthly costs the same. He basically gave me a few service agreements for almost $0 in order to make the numbers work out. Which is why I'm going to keep most of them. The refund on them would be near zilch. Might as well have them then. The extended warranty I'm seriously thinking about canceling and taking the pro-rated return and applying it to my loan principle (since I went upside down in trade-in to get out from under the financial burden that was the STI and into my BRZ).

My advice: be ruthless with the service and maintenance agreement #s. and if you plan to mod at all, don't go for the extended service agreement, and do NOT agree to N2 in the tires (that's another way for a dealership to make $$). the benefits, while real, are not enough of an improvement over 78% Nitrogen (regular air) in the first place.

[marc615243]

Hmm I was debating the middle of the month thing. I was starting early with hopes to get a good deal lined up right around the end of the month when this dealer offered me this one. it was significantly below the others so that's why I am considering it. Think holding off until the end of the month would be wise? I hope there is no chance of losing this deal if I do wait.

[gramicci101]

Agreed on nitrogen. The benefits are great... if you're on a hot track heat cycling the shit out of your tires.

The windshield replacement warranty is trash. You'd think it would account for rock chips, but it doesn't. Just manufacturer defects. Get windshield coverage through your insurance company.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by marc615243

Hmm I was debating the middle of the month thing. I was starting early with hopes to get a good deal lined up right around the end of the month when this dealer offered me this one. it was significantly below the others so that's why I am considering it. Think holding off until the end of the month would be wise? I hope there is no chance of losing this deal if I do wait.

The only way you'll lose this particular deal is if someone else buys this car first.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by marc615243

Hmm I was debating the middle of the month thing. I was starting early with hopes to get a good deal lined up right around the end of the month when this dealer offered me this one. it was significantly below the others so that's why I am considering it. Think holding off until the end of the month would be wise? I hope there is no chance of losing this deal if I do wait.

You run the risk of someone else buying the car. If its a great deal for you, it might be a great deal for them too. How badly do you want THIS particular car? For me, I didn't need to buy at all. My car was perfectly fine, it was just boring. I let them know that I was under no pressure to buy and had no problem walking away from a sketchy deal.

[marc615243]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

You run the risk of someone else buying the car. If its a great deal for you, it might be a great deal for them too. How badly do you want THIS particular car? For me, I didn't need to buy at all. My car was perfectly fine, it was just boring. I let them know that I was under no pressure to buy and had no problem walking away from a sketchy deal.

I have lusted over owning a BRZ since I started seeing the concepts being made. I fell in love with the SWP BRZ when I saw in person and test drove one when they first got onto the lots. I want this car very bad but I am also one to dwell on losing money or losing a good deal.

I agreed to go down to the dealership tomorrow to look at this particular one and start discussing options but if I can get another 500-1k off I would be willing to wait. Like I said I want to save as much as I can and I feel that should take priority. My car now is in very good condition and I am not desperate aside from staying awake at night thinking about this car

I guess the deciding factor for me would be one question. How much would you guess I could save by waiting until the end of the month?

[gramicci101]

I've never bought into the end of the month quota desperation theory. I can see end of the year, but what didn't get sold this month can be sold next month. Others might have a different opinion.

On the one hand, it's only two weeks. You may be able to get a slightly lower price. On the other hand, that's two weeks that someone else could buy the car, and the price they've offered is pretty reasonable. And you should be able to get $500-1000 off of the maintenance plans, with enough arguing.

If they're offering you a deal on this one that they wouldn't offer on another one in a few weeks, I'd get it. But I'm also an impulsive buyer. I drove a 2013 premium they had on the lot two or three times then bought a 2014 limited that hadn't even been unwrapped yet, because I wanted that color and the heated seats (winter in Delaware). All over the space of three days from first walking into the dealership to look at it. They finished the initial prep after I had already signed for it.

[SirBrass]

how badly does the salesman realize that you want this car? If he's gotten clued in, then you may need to agree to the $30k (b/c he'll play the long odds and hold his own, b/c he figures you're going to sell the car to yourself sooner or later, with good money betting on sooner, even if he doesn't cave on price), OR suck it up and wait just to prove him wrong and wait for another SWP Limited to pop up.

If he's still in the dark, play the "I can walk away any time I want" angle even to yourself, and play the odds that the limited will still be there in another 15 days. The limiteds don't move anywhere near as well as the premiums b/c of the cost factor. The subaru dealerships can sell the premiums ridiculously easy b/c the price is just too good. The limiteds are for those who can go higher and really really want that particular car. Thus they don't move as fast. Much like the WRX base models vs. STI Limiteds (except they'll probably have more BRZ Limiteds on hand than the new STI Limiteds) in terms of time on lot till sale.

Another thing: factor in what you know you can sell your current car for + another few grand for your downpayment. Offer them the "I can pay you X right now" then, and write a promisory note (signed check that they won't cash for about 21 days or so) for what you know you can sell your car for. That will reduce the loan amount and reduce your monthly payments. Then, SELL your car immediately. If you think you can get $5k minimum for it, promise another $5k down on the BRZ. If you think you can at a minimum sell it for $4k, promise $4k even if you end up selling for $5k. Then roll the difference after the sale into whatever you want (mods, or better yet against the principle loan amount).

Also, GO for the smartnote payment system. It allows you to pay off your loan earlier by auto debiting your checking for half the monthly amount once every two weeks (almost but just a bit more than 2x a month). It'll pay off the loan faster by several months up to almost a year in advance depending on length of the loan, which ends up saving you $$ in the long run, and you can then not worry about missed payments (if you are prone to sometimes forget these things), so it protects your credit score that way.

[poundsand]

Originally Posted by marc615243

Spoke with the dealer a little bit ago and the final price he says he can do is $30000 all fees and tax included.

Eh. That knocks off vtr (which is a scam) and a little more. He can definitely come down on doc fees, and I'd ask for coming down on the dealer installed options as well. And if ask him to match Clint's offer that you have. Basically I'd want him to come down $1k+. Actually, more than that - I'd want an extra discount from them for f'ing up the window with the vtr...

[Annahra]

If this car is exactly what you want, I'd get it. You'll run the risk of having to custom order to get what you want if they sell it, and then there's less room for negotiation usually.