Fumoto valve quick question - Page 6 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Lverasky · 03-12-2014, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranatsu

I did this on Sunday, and my fumoto valve did not open. So I would rest assured that it shouldn't be a problem. I am NOT using the locking ring either.
Fast forward to about 1:00.... Ended up something like 200 ft out in the mud.

did you use a new crash washer? I was at Subaru the other day, one of the rep told me that have some newer version of crash washer for BRZ, it looks little thicker then the OEM ones, he told me all the new oil change going will replace with the new THICK crash washer.

Ranatsu · 03-12-2014, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peace_noel

did you use a new crash washer? I was at Subaru the other day, one of the rep told me that have some newer version of crash washer for BRZ, it looks little thicker then the OEM ones, he told me all the new oil change going will replace with the new THICK crash washer.

I used the foam washer that came with the Fumoto valve. Its been on since my first oil change at around 1500 miles. I'm currently at 22000 miles.

t.chk · 03-12-2014, 05:28 PM

The torq speck is 30ft-lbs, but for me it was "till it stopped moving + half a turn" and then "a little more" so that the 'lever' was facing towards the front of the car.

Ive check for leakes and it seems to be holding up very well.

But yes, but the $1 lock...its 1.5k to rebuild the motor (and you might as well get a built one which is more).

frs10 · 03-12-2014, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t.chk

The torq speck is 30ft-lbs, but for me it was "till it stopped moving + half a turn" and then "a little more" so that the 'lever' was facing towards the front of the car.

Ive check for leakes and it seems to be holding up very well.

But yes, but the $1 lock...its 1.5k to rebuild the motor (and you might as well get a built one which is more).

mine is holding up fine too, had it on for about 10k miles

1Cor10:23 · 05-07-2014, 12:48 PM

Is there a new consensus for torque spec? Still seeing lots of ~20 and ~30.

Cheers

supramkivtt2jz · 05-07-2014, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

Is there a new consensus for torque spec? Still seeing lots of ~20 and ~30.

Cheers

I just took some vice grips and gave it the old german goot-en-tite. If i had to guess, I would wager 30 ft lbs is where mine is at. factory spec is 31 ft lbs

wheelhaus · 05-07-2014, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramkivtt2jz

I just took some vice grips and gave it the old german goot-en-tite. If i had to guess, I would wager 30 ft lbs is where mine is at. factory spec is 31 ft lbs

I believe some have broken at factory torque. Remember it's not a steel bolt, it's softer material and comes with a different gasket.

calibrz · 05-12-2014, 06:15 PM

I have fumoto valve on for over 20K since drive, no problem. never seen it open by itself with 90+ MPH

1Cor10:23 · 05-12-2014, 06:20 PM

I ended just hand cranking mine with an open ended wrench. Got it so switching is tiled upward

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Sportsguy83 · 05-13-2014, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marchy

So i'm looking to get this before my next oil change and found it on amazon prime, same price as on quickvalve.com and sold by quickvalve but you get 2 day free shipping with prime. thought i'd share to save some people 5 bucks on shipping.

Amazon.com: Fumoto F-108 Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive

Get this one (obviously somewhere else than Amazon)

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/F108S-16mm-1-5-Fumoto-S-Type-Nipple/dp/B004FFHH0M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top"]Amazon.com: F108S(16mm-1.5): Fumoto S-Type Oil Drain Valve w/ Short Nipple Joint: Automotive[/ame]

Actually the one you linked works really good too. The short nipple just give you an easy way to be mess free.

DoomsdayJesus · 05-22-2014, 08:25 PM

Haha, nipple.

DoomsdayJesus · 05-22-2014, 08:25 PM

Also, I've had one since the first oil change on my 2011 Outback. With what I've driven through in that thing, you don't need the clip. It stays put.

skyloran · 05-23-2014, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Get this one (obviously somewhere else than Amazon)

Amazon.com: F108S(16mm-1.5): Fumoto S-Type Oil Drain Valve w/ Short Nipple Joint: Automotive

Actually the one you linked works really good too. The short nipple just give you an easy way to be mess free.

I had the 108S too, love to have it on all my cars

Sportsguy83 · 05-23-2014, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoomsdayJesus

Haha, nipple.

And short....

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05-07-2014, 12:48 PM	#75
1Cor10:23 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Drives: '13 Whiteout FR-S (M/T) Location: GTA Posts: 1,205 Thanks: 492 Thanked 392 Times in 238 Posts Mentioned: 14 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Is there a new consensus for torque spec? Still seeing lots of ~20 and ~30. Cheers __________________ \|1Cor10:23 \| Whiteout FR-S \| Form Follows Function Build\|

05-12-2014, 06:20 PM	#79
1Cor10:23 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Drives: '13 Whiteout FR-S (M/T) Location: GTA Posts: 1,205 Thanks: 492 Thanked 392 Times in 238 Posts Mentioned: 14 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I ended just hand cranking mine with an open ended wrench. Got it so switching is tiled upward Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk __________________ \|1Cor10:23 \| Whiteout FR-S \| Form Follows Function Build\|

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calibrz Turbo 86 Join Date: May 2014 Drives: GT86 Location: Japan now Posts: 167 Thanks: 3 Thanked 35 Times in 23 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I have fumoto valve on for over 20K since drive, no problem. never seen it open by itself with 90+ MPH

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