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#113 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Drives: Subaru BRZ Limited
Location: Toronto, Canada
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Steam, 3M (or equivalent) adhesive remover, a plastic razor, and patients!
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#114 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: 2014 BRZ SWP LTD
Location: The 503
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Quote:
Say I take perfect care of the car, would you say the clear bra would last around 2-3 years where I could still remove and have the surface look like it was never there? I will probably keep it on for a few years, if any longer I have a feeling it would be nearly impossible to remove. I've been doing some research, and many people realize after going through the ordeal to take it off, they wish that they never had it installed. Pretty much, I want to avoid my car to look like this.
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#115 | |
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Master Installer
Join Date: Apr 2013
Drives: Scion FRS
Location: Orange County, CA
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Quote:
In my experience old 3M film can be hell to remove. I once spent two days removing 10 year old 3M off a Porsche. The film was cracked so bad you had to scrap it off. On the other hand, I have removed many 5 year old VentureShield with no problems. Also tons of 3 years old Xpel and Suntek. The films are being improved every year that most of the bad qualities of 3M are non existent. |
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#116 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: FRS
Location: Austin, TX
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It looks like that because they didn't heat it up before they took it off, they don't know how to pull on it properly or its cheap shitty film. Like others have said, I've removed 5+ year old film with no problem and very minimal residue with the paint looking brand new underneath.
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#117 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: 2014 BRZ SWP LTD
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#118 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: SOLD...
Location: GTA Ontario
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Getting mine done this weekend with opticoat. I was a little surprised to hear the guy say that the bra will go on first and then opticoat over top. Maybe not the most ideal if the bra needs to be replaced at any time.
thoughts?
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WRB MT BRZ Sport Tech Delivered March 21 2013 Its mine now!!
Paid for Mar 2018 and its gone... Sept '18 tho I am sure I will miss it Replaced with 18 50th edition ND ![]() |
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#119 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: 2014 SWP BRZ, 2002 Bugeye OBS
Location: Austin
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Quote:
Sent from my Moto X via Tapatalk
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| The Following User Says Thank You to MysteryMachine For This Useful Post: | SirBrass (04-27-2014) |
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#120 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Drives: Subaru BRZ Limited
Location: Toronto, Canada
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You need the Opticoat on the clear bra, otherwise it's not doing anything. If you have to replace the clear bra for whatever reason, you would need a new application of Opticoat.
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#121 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ sold
Location: CAL
Posts: 158
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Quote:
I don't have experience with wraps...just hear from industry people and reading the forums when it comes to wraps. Even tint shop uses razors and sometimes razor your interior. Just got to go by word of mouth and hope for the best... even detailers... luckily I found a guy that did my car and he cares about what he does. I'm going to wrap my mountain bike and then see if it's worth my time to learn to wrap my car. Pre cut kits can help, but they don't fully cover the edges...at least some of the kits I've seen. I'm going to find a way to lay something underneath the PPF when it comes to edges and see if I can cut the film and then lift the lift and remove the material used to protect the paint while cutting and then lay the film back down. I'll try it on my mountain bike and see... |
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#122 |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
Location: Thousand Oaks
Posts: 156
Thanks: 26
Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
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Hey guys sorry been busy at the shop lately.
As far removal 3m is terrible! Complete crap, avoid that film. Suntek and XPEL remove very easily, I've removed 3 year old Suntek and get it off leaving little to no adhesive, then I'll use "stoners" "tarminator", similar to goo gone and pretty much whipe the adhesive off again if there's any! I removed tons of film and honestly only have had about 5 3m horror story removals. All of which the film looked like complete shit. As described by another poster here, yellow and cracked. One was on a class A bus motorhome front end! Imagine that fun ha ha ![]() But like I said as far as XPEL and Suntek, they come off like butter. Better then any film. To the poster that said venture shield was easy to, you sit are correct. It takes 2nd behind Suntek and XPEL. As far as opti before or after, IMO it doesn't matter and doesn't effect the clear bra install. You can opti coat the clear bra as it doesn't "hurt it" but in my experience I've seen it under the 1,000s of lumens of light in my shop make the clear bra have a simmer/funky look to the surface. So I don't recommend it to our customers. XPEL and Suntek have a sealant for clear bra. If your dead set on putting something on the bra I'd say use that. Again all I do and have ever done to my 3 vehicles that I've had clear bra on is spray wax and wax. And I never had stains or any fading, even with venture shield! It's all how you maintain your car, a car doesn't just magically stay perfect ![]() Also, excercise some common sense, if something on your paint starts looking weird have it removed before it's a worst case scenario. ) will be back soon guys Later |
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#123 |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
Location: Thousand Oaks
Posts: 156
Thanks: 26
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Rock chips and scratches just really suck and look like crap
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#124 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: 2014 BRZ SWP LTD
Location: The 503
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Got some of my front end done yesterday. My friend did an amazing job with the instal, hooked me up with bumper, partial hood and fenders, mirrors, gas lid and the edge of the spoiler where I shut the trunk for $500. He tucked the film on edges where possible, very detailed and precise. Here is my input:
-3M was the only product he uses unfortunately, and there is a noticeable difference in paint/film. The 3M definitely has the orange peel effect, and looks like it can scratch easily. I plan to just use Optimum spray wax on it with the paint, unless told otherwise. -I decided on partial hood just to try it out, but the full hood/fenders is definitely a better option. The line is not very noticeable from the front, but looking from the back it is very noticeable. I plan on getting just the full hood eventually, I'll see how long it takes and if it bothers me. The lines on the bumper and mirrors are not as noticeable, if not fully invisible. -I would recommend getting the headlights protected. I already had a nasty chip on the plastic, so I passed but something to consider. Overall I'm pretty happy with the instal, and looking forward to taking road trips without worrying about road rashes. |
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#125 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
Location: Thousand Oaks
Posts: 156
Thanks: 26
Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
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Quote:
Trust me, you won't regret it. I feel like a broken record but you will not regret preserving your factory paint! Congrats again man! |
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#126 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ sold
Location: CAL
Posts: 158
Thanks: 29
Thanked 22 Times in 18 Posts
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Hey Ghost,
I'm thinking of wrapping the car myself...how do you apply the emblem back on over the PPF of the front bumper. Also how hard is it to do the BRZ trunk...do you have to remove the rear spoiler? Appreciate some pointers if you don't mind. For the rest of the folks...after having opti coat done on my car... I would say it's better to invest in PPF if you can afford it or had to pick one or the other. Rocks and gravel on the freeway suck. My detailer did a great job with the color correction, but OC still have issues with protecting from bird poop and the orange and yellow spots...still gets eaten away. It's a nice to have...but PPF is the way to go if you can afford it or do it yourself. For cutting the PPF don't use a razor...go knifeless. |
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| Tags |
| clear bra, paint protection film, thousand oaks |
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