Nameless Performance Equal Length Stepped Header

[Mars2]

So about 273$ per HP gain
or 300$ per LBS of torque
I was about to jump for the nameless but now I'm not sure even if the under curve gain are better than top end.

[350matt]

thing is about the FI kits is yes they're better value in terms of $ per HP but its a larger outlay up front isn't it so with the bolt ons its a $1000 here, $1500 there where you need $4k for a AVO kit that not to mention the heat issues with a turbo kit

[raul]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

With all due respect to everyone in the thread, this exact thing is what pushed me over to go FI. A bolt on kit on low boost can be had for 4K, and will make much more power than bolt ons + tune.

I completely understand whomever does not want to deal with going FI though, I'm just sharing my train of thought.

I'd rather be FI, but with how much time my car sees at the track and autocross, it's best for my particular scenario to not be FI for now. Later on I plan to go FI, depending on how well I do in Autocross. FI is definitely the most cost effective way to add power, bar none, but it also introduces cooling issues and more points for failure. An FI kit for the street may cost 4-5k, but an FI kit for the track is more like 6-7k I would think.

[regal]

Originally Posted by raul

I'd rather be FI, but with how much time my car sees at the track and autocross, it's best for my particular scenario to not be FI for now. Later on I plan to go FI, depending on how well I do in Autocross.

Almost anyway you look at it:
1. $/hp
2. hp/psi (less strain on engine)
3. Tuning (less timing required for hp)
4. High compression makes fast spoolup times


a turbo fits like a glove on this DI engine. Just need an entry level turbo with a solid basemap compatible with OpenPort. Hopefullly such a kit will come to the market for those who just want +40-50 hp.

[IAmNotTheDriftKing]

I spent 1500 total on the exhaust and that was in two separate stages over a year. Now, putting down 4 grand for a turbo kit is a bit of a step up from 2k for an exhaust, which is done in stages over a year usually. So while yes, it is better hp per dollar, it is not affordable for most people to do.

Although, I do plan to go FI in the future.

[regal]

Originally Posted by IAmNotTheDriftKing

I spent 1500 total on the exhaust and that was in two separate stages over a year. Now, putting down 4 grand for a turbo kit is a bit of a step up from 2k for an exhaust, which is done in stages over a year usually. So while yes, it is better hp per dollar, it is not affordable for most people to do.

True but much less hp/torque per dollar. IMHO the only way for the nameless to be competitive is an included solid basemap.

[Calum]

The KW supercharger kit can be had for $3500, plus a $300 tune. An oil cooler is needed if you're tracking the car bone stock so there no point in listing that in this discussion. So a total of $3800 to go from ~165 whp to ~280. No excess heat issues or extra points of failure that could prevent your from driving it home.

Yes, that's more money and harder to save up than doing the exhaust piecemeal, but lets be serious, $3800 to add 115 whp or $3000 to add 10 whp.

I was hopeful for this header adding good gains, the hype was incredible. I was also hoping it would play well with a SC kit to help get me to my goals on 91 octane. After seeing the final design it doesn't meat either of my reasons for watching this thread. I'm still holding onto a thread of hope that tuners are going to start seeing better gains, but this header is $1500 on its own. And it comes with a 3 inch outlet only meaning: you either run a 3 inch exhaust, find a way to smoothly reduce it the pipe size to an ear friendly 2.5 inch, or live with knowing you paid top dollar for a header only to cause a ton or reversion where it bolts to parts it wasn't really made to bolt to.

As usual @Sportsguy83 is right. At this point the only reason to stay NA is for bragging rights. And until you're getting even half the gains of a K series from your NA mods, you will be laughed at. There's a 350 whp CRX running around here, that's NA. Bragging about 180 whp is just lame.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Calum

And until you're getting even half the gains of a K series from your NA mods, you will be laughed at. There's a 350 whp CRX running around here, that's NA. Bragging about 180 whp is just lame.

Those K series motors in the 300 whp N/A range swapped into CRXs or hatches are ridiculous!!! Incredible power to weight ratio and instant power everywhere.


Sent from my SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[DatApex]

N/A is much, much more reliable than FI. Safe estimate that those with FI are halving the overall life of their motors (or at least to the point where some major component fails and needs to be replaced). Have to factor in maintenance as well, folks.

That said, this thread isn't about N/A vs FI. People buying this header should do their research and understand what they're getting, instead of living in their fantasy world and getting disappointed when reality hits. I haven't seen anything so far that has made me regret my purchase. Installer error on leaks is an easy fix, and the gains seem just fine. As mentioned above, this motor isn't a K-series. It's still an extremely new platform and we're a long ways off from a solid 200+ WHP N/A (my personal goal, however long it takes to get there).

People buying this header (or ANY header, really) to make big power are WOEFULLY uninformed.

[raul]

Originally Posted by regal

Almost anyway you look at it:
1. $/hp
2. hp/psi (less strain on engine)
3. Tuning (less timing required for hp)
4. High compression makes fast spoolup times


a turbo fits like a glove on this DI engine. Just need an entry level turbo with a solid basemap compatible with OpenPort. Hopefullly such a kit will come to the market for those who just want +40-50 hp.

I guess my main issue with going FI is the change of class in Autocross. It puts me in a class I can't be competitive in.

[DatApex]

Originally Posted by raul

I guess my main issue with going FI is the change of class in Autocross. It puts me in a class I can't be competitive in.

This as well. Power per dollar is NOT the only thing you should be looking at when making decisions on what to buy for your car. You're in for a world of hurt down the road if you do that.

Fast, cheap, reliable. Pick two.

[Shneegle]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

With all due respect to everyone in the thread, this exact thing is what pushed me over to go FI. A bolt on kit on low boost can be had for 4K, and will make much more power than bolt ons + tune.

I completely understand whomever does not want to deal with going FI though, I'm just sharing my train of thought.

I have plans to go FI later down the road but for not I am keeping the car in the STX class for SCCA AutoX. The only reason I did 3" was because FI was going to be later down the road.

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

With all due respect and this is my worthless 2 cents, that is a really jumpy dyno curve considering it's already smoothing 5. You should take a 3rd gear WOT log just to confirm and make sure you are not knocking.

Even moving the smoothing to 0 the curve does not get way out of hand. I already looked at that to make sure. Thanks tho!

Originally Posted by tennisfreak

Wow thanks for the dynos! So from Shneegles dyno it looks like just a header without a tune is pretty much worthless. HP is about exact same and the torque curve is modified to move the dip around some.

Without a tune I would not even bother installing the header. This could be said about so many parts because tuning is worth it.

Originally Posted by raul

I guess my main issue with going FI is the change of class in Autocross. It puts me in a class I can't be competitive in.

Completely agree!


Given more time with my tuner we could smooth out the curve and look for more power lower end like nameless got but we ran out of time.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Shneegle

I have plans to go FI later down the road but for not I am keeping the car in the STX class for SCCA AutoX. The only reason I did 3" was because FI was going to be later down the road.



Even moving the smoothing to 0 the curve does not get way out of hand. I already looked at that to make sure. Thanks tho!

Thanks for sharing your results!

And like I said, I understand boost is not the end be all solution and understand not everyone wants/can go that route. Happy modding!!

[raul]

Alright, I was gonna wait until I got tuned, but here's what I've got so far.