This car is nuts!!! 200 hp?!? No way.

[Jen]

Originally Posted by Annahra

Don't buy the car thinking the funny noises can be fixed, because they probably can't (at least not permanently). There isn't anything to fix because they aren't actually broken.

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I might just go with this. Your car is sooooo much better than the Camaro or Mustang.

[Jen]

Originally Posted by Chad86

Agreed. Purchase one and join us!

Sounds like a plan.

[strat61caster]

There are zero reliability issues with the fuel pump. Online forums give a skewed impression of negativity, not many people sign up to say how great everything is going but if there's a problem you bet your ass the average owner is going to let everyone know the POS they bought.

23k miles, original fuel pump, chirped the first 10k, clickety-clack throughout and zero issues so far.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by Jen

Just test drove a V6 Mustang with an upgraded rear gear ratio, it was 3:9something. I drove there in a Prius. We drove a bunch of miles. Well, it was easy to drive, no clutch issues. As boring as my Prius. Really.
I wasn't thrilled with the Camaro either. And these are both 300+ hp cars. They are just boring. I think I might just take my chances with your fuel pump etc. The FRS/BRZ is such a better car even with it's 200 hp. So I go back to my original premise here- holy sh!t how does this thing only have 200hp??!?!

There's no fuel pump issue other than potential for crickets, which is a sound issue only.

There really are NOT any reliability issues with this car. Transient knock has been taken care of in ecu flash updates in TSBs, etc (a 2014 will have the updated ROM on it already).

Looking at the warranty/issues thread is just going to get you into a panic when all those are are mostly major exceptions, just like with most car platforms.

[Dezoris]

Welcome to DI, and high pressure fuel pumps the louder sounds are all apart of the game. The one on this car is just louder than most. But then again other manufacturers to a better job at isolating the noise.

[robwbright]

So am I to conclude that it's not worth taking the car to the dealer for the cricket issue? I was going to do that before OFT tuning.

The only warranty/recall related issues I've noticed on my car are occasional crickets, condensation in tails a couple times and the GPS not wanting to connect sometimes.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by regal

Need to drive a 2.0L SR20DET Silvia.

To compare a 2 liter turbo engine to a nonturbo 2 liter engine is... pretty horrible comparison of two completely different things.

A better example would have been a SR20VE vs the FA20.

86x86mm bore/stroke
10.3:1 CR
187-204HP depending on model year of car

I made 188FWHP out of a modded VE with ECU, N1 cams, intake, Fujitsubo header, Thermoblok intake manifold spacers, and aftermarket exhaust.

Granted this was a FWD engine, but the powerband was very linear and smooth. However, torque was not super abundant.

Examples of VE dyno charts:
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...oq=sr20ve+dyno

-alex

[Boxer486]

Originally Posted by Tgionet

Could be worse

Yeah, based on the orange residue from the MMT in the octane booster they were using I'd call that user error.
___________

Keep in mind too that anyone who quotes factory power numbers on these older tuner cars is quoting non-standardized figures that current SAE reg cars must comply with.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by robwbright

Aren't those all turbos at 7-9 psi boost? If so, then apples and oranges. I can make lots of torque out of the twins with a turbo/supercharger setup.

7-9 is factory wastegate actuator spring pressure. With the actual factory boost solenoid installed, factory boost for a S13 SR20DET is 11PSI.

But keep in mind that the DETs were with a factory 8.5:1 CR. At same boost, the FA20 would have lots more power by virtue of the higher compression.

Still not a valid comparison.

-alex

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by mav1178

7-9 is factory wastegate actuator spring pressure. With the actual factory boost solenoid installed, factory boost for a S13 SR20DET is 11PSI.

But keep in mind that the DETs were with a factory 8.5:1 CR. At same boost, the FA20 would have lots more power by virtue of the higher compression.

Still not a valid comparison.

-alex

I was looking at wikipedia... appears not everything you read on the internet is accurate.

[Annahra]

Originally Posted by robwbright

I was looking at wikipedia... appears not everything you read on the internet is accurate.

WAT!

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[mav1178]

Originally Posted by robwbright

I was looking at wikipedia... appears not everything you read on the internet is accurate.

My source is from almost 20 years interacting/working on the S-chassis. It's why every swapped 240SX with SR has "only" 7PSI of boost in stock form, because no one bothers to swap the stock boost control solenoid over.

-alex

[billwot]

Originally Posted by Jyn

There haven't been too many mechanical issues on the FR-S so far. The "crickets" thing seems to only be a sound issue. That being said, I was in a similar situation as you and wanted a fun car without issues.

That's how I ended up with the FR-S. BMW was a nightmare (even though I want one more than the FR-S tbh), same with Mercedes's electronics.

I loved my 350Z when it "only" used a quart of oil every 1500 miles. But when it was using a quart ever 700 miles (at 60K), I figured it was time to get rid of it.

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by billwot

I loved my 350Z when it "only" used a quart of oil every 1500 miles. But when it was using a quart ever 700 miles (at 60K), I figured it was time to get rid of it.

Ouch. Did you have a revup engine? I've only had my 350z for less than a year, but thankfully doesn't seem to have any major oil consumption.