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#169 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
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I ended up re-designing the mount so i could use a proper 8-32 nut. 3d printed it and it's now installed in the car.
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#170 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Drives: Smells like tires when I drive
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Without a doubt the most terrifying thing I've seen in a while.
Woah, 8-32 is pretty big in the grand scheme of things, I'm sure that'll fix your problems. |
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#171 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: 13 SWP BRZ Prem
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Quote:
But really. Let me know if you would be willing to sell one.
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JDL UEL Headers, Nameless Res&Cat Over&Front, Invidia Q300 Catback, AVO Dry Panel Filter, Custom ECUTek Tune by DriftOffice 191WHP/151 ft-lb on 92 |
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#172 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
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I'm going to do a ~2,000 mile road trip here this week including tracking the car at Barber. If my plastic mount with the nuts holds up i'll agree to sell a few. I just need to put it through the gauntlet before offering it to others. Last time at Barber we had the mirror fly off with the factory piece so this should be a good test.
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#173 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 15 CBS WRX STi
Location: Redwood City, Ca
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Just in case some of you don't know....this is a TSB from the manufacture and has a new updated replacement part that doesn't have the same problem. Plus it's free. Just a heads up for anyone that doesn't want to fix this the DIY way (even though the one above looks great).
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#174 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Drives: Widebody '94 Miata R-Package
Location: St. Petersburg, Florida
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Just happened to me!
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![]() I <3 my Miata. But I <3 my new BRZ even more! |
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#175 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: 13 SWP BRZ Prem
Location: Evergreen State
Posts: 301
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Quote:
__________________
JDL UEL Headers, Nameless Res&Cat Over&Front, Invidia Q300 Catback, AVO Dry Panel Filter, Custom ECUTek Tune by DriftOffice 191WHP/151 ft-lb on 92 |
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#176 | |
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SLO NO MO
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: '19 Tesla Model 3 Performance
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Quote:
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk |
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#177 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 15 CBS WRX STi
Location: Redwood City, Ca
Posts: 93
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Crazy. How long did it take for the second revision piece to come loose? After getting mine changed out it's unbelievably solid and currently shows no signs of loosening. Hope it stays strong!
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#178 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: '13 BRZ LTD
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Mine was replaced about six months ago. It shakes like it has Parkinson's.
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to vf1rwolfleader For This Useful Post: | Imrac (04-11-2014) |
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#179 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: 2013 DGM BRZ Limited
Location: Long Island, NY
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My 2nd one lasted about 4 months before it broke again. 3rd time seems to have been the charm as its been about 8 months and it's rock solid. Heard they changed the design at some point.
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#180 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Drives: 16 CBS WRX Limited
Location: Boston
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So after having this problem "fixed" 5 times, I realized that if you want to do something right, sometimes, you just gotta do it yourself.
The last two times I've had this "fixed," the service departments said that they "applied more glue" and the first place said that if it got tinkered with too much, I'd need a new windshield because the mount wouldn't be secure. Sounded like bullshit to me, but whatever. I ended up going to another dealership to buy a new adapter plate this afternoon after the original one I went to this morning said "more glue." I got home, took the mirror off and saw that there was no glue. Took off the mounting plate and saw that there was no glue. Took off the adapter plate and saw that THERE WAS NO GLUE. Honestly, I'm not even pissed because there should be NO GLUE NEEDED. While comparing the hardware, it looks as if I had the revised adapter from my initial fix. After doing to test fitting I figured I should retry the original hardware to see if I can somehow make it sturdy. Lo and behold it worked! The trick that did it for me was to tighten the two screws on the mounting plate more than once because it's actually the retaining pin that actually keeps the mirror in place. The screws just need to be torqued down enough to provide the tension. I think that the vibrations of the car just shakes the screws out of the adapter plate. Lock-tite it probably a more permanent fix and will be what I'm going to use the next time it loosens up again. Another point of weakness is also the retaining pin if you're constantly re-tightening the screws. Eventually, the elasticity of thepin could hit it's limit and be permanently bent out of shape. I guess I have an extra set of hardware if I need to fix it in a pinch and it's striped. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to AznBRZer For This Useful Post: | unsurety (05-12-2014) |
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#181 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2014
Drives: BRZ Pearl White
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My updated mirror fell off today about a year after it was "upgraded" to the new adapter.
The two phillips head screws holding the sturdy metal plate to that tiny white metal clip just fell out. I re-installed them but they feel as if they are stripping the puny threads in the white metal. Mirror is not firmly secured and vibrates occasionally. Subaru still hasn't fixed this issue. The "glue" refers to the windshield mount which is not the problem. The mounting bracket glued onto the windshield is solid as a rock. The single clamping torx head screw fastening the mirror to the mounting plate also works just fine. It's the two hard steel screws working loose from the soft white metal clip held in by the impact release spring that is the problem. I don't think lock tite will solve the issue because the problem is play developing in the threads in that soft metal clip that is the cause of the problem. |
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#182 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2011 EB F150
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I have been fighting this issue now for the past month. I even waited at the dealership today for the fix and then they came out to tell me they didnt even have the parts! UGH.
For what its worth, for people who just need to get a mirror back up and NOT COMING DOWN, here was my quick fix. Yes it vibrates but its not going anywhere. Remove metal screw mount and the remove the U clip. What I did was bent the U clip into a Banana and then put it and the metal mounting plate back in. You then can get the screws to go well thru the mounting plate. This is not a long term solution but it will get you back on the road to safely see behind you and it will not fall down. But now focusing on long term. How were mirrors mounted back before the NHTSA crap? There was nothing wrong with vibrating and falling down mirrors. I would be perfectly happy with using the old mounting method and could really care less about the mirror flying off in a accident. |
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