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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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04-10-2014, 09:33 AM | #15 |
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TBH, I wish I would have gone with PTuning. That's my advice.
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04-10-2014, 09:48 AM | #16 |
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I'll look more into the ptuning kit then. I will do all the work myself except for tuning. I am highly mechanically inclined and have built motors before and done plenty of my own work.
I think my main question boils down to is it worth waiting and saving to get a turbo kit all at once and build a motor later, or for my power and goals am I better off doing all the bolt ons slowly over time, getting a supercharger, and eventually build a motor as the miles rack up. The amount of miles I drive in a year leads me to believe I will be building a motor for this car just form sheer usage. It is my dd and I need reliability almost more then anything. These are the kinds of answered I couldn't figure out from all of my reading. |
04-10-2014, 09:52 AM | #17 | |
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04-10-2014, 11:49 AM | #18 |
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Yeah there are folks who have been driving with boosted cars for a long time now. P&L (front mounted kit) has a couple guys upwards of 20K+ miles including the owner of the shop. Get a good tune, run decent gas, don't run crazy boost, and you should be okay.
I plan on running an 7-8PSI wastegate spring and unless I'm running higher Ethanol content gas (I have a flex fuel kit) I don't plan on going beyond that on 93 octane. The car is plenty of fun with that much boost on a good turbo. I think the new C38 supercharger from Kraftwerks would probably hit your goals as well with the right gas. |
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04-10-2014, 03:08 PM | #19 | |
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So is the general consensus that either turbo or supercharger is equally safe given the asme amounts of boost with a good tune? longevity means a lot to me. Again, i live in southwest florida and it gets hot here and I do a lot of city driving unfortunately so cooling is a must of course, but I was of the understanding that turbo cars make more heat then a supercharged setup. Am I wrong in this assumption? Last edited by Basket Case; 04-10-2014 at 04:17 PM. |
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04-10-2014, 03:35 PM | #20 | |
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a turbo setup is probably going to be warmer under hood than a typical supercharger system, i know it was the case with my S2k. that being said Ptuning's turbo probably wouldn't increase under hood temps much at all. you will probably want to look into both a larger radiator and oil cooler regardless of which option you choose just to be on the safe side. i live in a fairly cool environment (vancouver island) but i'm still considering Robispec's Total cooling solution or something similar. I plan on going with the low boost C38 supercharger from kraftwerks. |
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04-10-2014, 04:20 PM | #21 |
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A new radiator and oil cooler area definitely a must for me. I think my answer is go for turbo. It seems that all things considered it will probably be the most efficient method of boosting and gives the most headroom for growth in the future.
Can anyone make a case for one vs the other for my situation? I do appreciate all the info so far. |
04-10-2014, 04:36 PM | #22 |
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Well, you likely won't hit 350whp with a supercharger so that's out of the question if it's your power goal.
Turbo and engine internals will leave it open-ended for you to go as big as you want As you said, cooling is an issue and this is a non-FI car from factory so definitely oil cooler, transmission cooler if you're AT, better radiator + hosing, any cooling you can throw at it. If you go turbo (especially the AVO), get the ceramic coated version, a PTE Turbo Blanket. If you do turbo properly, you'll have much bigger gains, more possibilities down the road, equal or better reliability. That's my 2 cents |
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04-10-2014, 05:03 PM | #23 | |
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350whp reliably you'll be building the bottom end and doing a cooling system upgrade for certain. The Frozen North
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04-10-2014, 05:05 PM | #24 | |
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I think with e85 (can't remember if he said pump gas only or not) he could hit 350whp with a supercharger. @Zach3794 here is at 330whp with E60 on the base (9psi) C30-94 kit, and can chime in here. my guess is that the high boost C30 would be able to push over 350whp without major problems (on E85). the C38 could do this as well IMO. It will be easier to do with a turbo, and you will have headroom (depending on turbo size) though. |
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04-10-2014, 05:18 PM | #25 |
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If exhaust pipes can handle the rain, I'm sure the turbo can too. Its not like your submerging the turbo; the water would have to be higher than the footwell, as high as the over pipe.
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04-10-2014, 05:26 PM | #26 |
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That exhaust housing gets quite a bit hotter than the overpipe ever would. F150's and older Chevy's use to crack manifolds if driven through puddles and water would splash up on them, not deep ones either
The Frozen North
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04-10-2014, 05:32 PM | #27 |
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You just mentioned V8's and older American cars ;-)
I'm willing to bet the oversized and underworked Garrett turbo can handle some splashing here and there. Anyways. That was one of my concerns to before purchasing the kit. PTuning's tuner convinced me that this wouldn't be an issue. |
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04-10-2014, 05:44 PM | #28 |
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Well I hope I'm wrong and the turbo holds up.
The Frozen North
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2013 SWP BRZ sportech. 11.11sec@129.01mph, 511whp on e70. FullBlown base kit, FullBlown built 9.5:1 engine, GTX3076R GEN2 turbo, 1700cc Bosch injectors, FullBlown flex fuel kit, FullBlown radiator and oil cooler, FullBlown custom 3" dual exit exhaust, act xtreme clutch, whiteline diff and subframe inserts, BC Racing coilovers, hotchkiss 18mm rear sway, is300 3.73 differential ... Never finished
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