DIY - Easy clutch grab adjustment (~10 mins)

[FR-Slide]

Just installed a new clutch stop today, and adjusted the clutch while I was down there (major PITA for a tall guy like me). Total throw is about 50% of what it was before, feels great!

I ended up with mine slightly above the brake as well, since putting it at/below the brake pedal made the clutch pretty much binary; it either dumped or stalled. Might be great for the track, but as I DD this, I need some play for traffic and stuff.

The first few mm of throw, it feels a little soft still; is this the helper spring I guess? Any way to change that so it's as firm as the actual engagement point?

Also, has anyone tried getting a more sturdy/robust pin for the cam/rod connection? There is a bit of play in mine, and it bothers me more now that I've seen it first hand. Makes the pedal kinda "loose" at the top/resting point. Ugh.

[fatherfork]

Originally Posted by FR-Slide

The first few mm of throw, it feels a little soft still; is this the helper spring I guess? Any way to change that so it's as firm as the actual engagement point?

It's probably because of the helper spring. You might try what's recommended in this thread and report back (in that thread) your reaction. Careful though, I haven't removed the helper spring so I can't speak to it's usefulness and because it's so hard to put back, it's virtually irreversible. I'm considering removing it, though.

[FR-Slide]

Originally Posted by fatherfork

It's probably because of the helper spring. You might try what's recommended in this thread and report back (in that thread) your reaction. Careful though, I haven't removed the helper spring so I can't speak to it's usefulness and because it's so hard to put back, it's virtually irreversible. I'm considering removing it, though.

Hmmm, I need to drive a car with it removed to see if this is what I'm after. With the changes I made this weekend, the ACTUAL travel is nice and short, but that first half of the throw is still numb. The thread sounds like it might be what I want, but I can't tell if it will make it better or worse haha.

Either way, thanks for the link.

[kiichiro]

Push clutch and wiggle with your head while your down there

At least that's what she said

[xxBrun0xx]

I actually PM'ed one of the few guys who did the helper spring removal and here was his response:

"I actually ended up putting the spring back in. I felt a big difference initially, and I'm sure it wasn't just in my mind. But after a while, I felt like the clutch without the helper spring was actually a bit more vague, as in, having the helper spring installed provides a more precise feel. Despite having improved firmness with it out, I reinstalled the helper spring to regain some of that precision.

Installing the clutch kick stop and adjusting the pedal height are great mods though."

[unsurety]

Great mod. I did it using the second method, undoing the cotter pin and spinning the clevis. Very easy if you have a 12mm shorty.

I almost stalled in reverse and on takeoff! The difference is dramatic. The travel is MUCH shorter, and my clutch pedal is still 1-2 mm above the brake pedal. Might even be too low, but I'm sure I'll adapt in time. Didn't test out cruise control but my gear indicator works, and with the clutch depressed all the way and in 1st, I revved it and the car didn't move.

I haven't daily driven a manual car in a while, but it feels a bit shorter than what even I was used to. Perhaps I got used to the pedal travel in 600 miles?

[unsurety]

I noticed something today. When on a flat surface, foot off the brake... I clutch in and go into first, hear the typical 'thunk', but the car lurches forward an inch or two. Was this normal? I don't remember it being like that. If I keep the pedal down, go into first, go back to neutral, and then first again, it doesn't lurch the second time.

Should point out that my clutch pedal is 1-2mm above my brake. I think I may raise it just a tad though, still seems kinda low.

[Zeus]

Can we assume yet that a safe clutch adjustment is anywhere above the brake pedal?

[codesplice]

Originally Posted by unsurety

I noticed something today. When on a flat surface, foot off the brake... I clutch in and go into first, hear the typical 'thunk', but the car lurches forward an inch or two. Was this normal? I don't remember it being like that. If I keep the pedal down, go into first, go back to neutral, and then first again, it doesn't lurch the second time.

Should point out that my clutch pedal is 1-2mm above my brake. I think I may raise it just a tad though, still seems kinda low.

I don't think that it should move... that sounds like it may be partially engaging. I'd adjust it back up a bit and see how it does.

[codesplice]

Originally Posted by Zeus

Can we assume yet that a safe clutch adjustment is anywhere above the brake pedal?

It's probably going to be different on different vehicles. The general recommendation is for slightly above the brake pedal, but I'd suggest doing some of the engagement tests that have been mentioned in the thread to make sure it's not too low. FWIW, I adjusted mine only about 1-1/2 turns of the clevis and everything is peachy.

[CoolBReeZe]

Originally Posted by codesplice

It's probably going to be different on different vehicles. The general recommendation is for slightly above the brake pedal, but I'd suggest doing some of the engagement tests that have been mentioned in the thread to make sure it's not too low. FWIW, I adjusted mine only about 1-1/2 turns of the clevis and everything is peachy.

Great advice. You don't want a "thunk" once you depress the clutch pedal, wait for transmission to come to a stop, and then put the car in first gear. If this happens your throwout bearing is still in contact with the pressure plate and will wear prematurely; as will your first gear synchro.

BTW, 1-1/2 turns of the clevis was perfect for me as well.

[chas3wba0]

Originally Posted by unsurety

I noticed something today. When on a flat surface, foot off the brake... I clutch in and go into first, hear the typical 'thunk', but the car lurches forward an inch or two. Was this normal? I don't remember it being like that. If I keep the pedal down, go into first, go back to neutral, and then first again, it doesn't lurch the second time.

Should point out that my clutch pedal is 1-2mm above my brake. I think I may raise it just a tad though, still seems kinda low.

Don't worry about it, my car does that occasionally too and my clutch pedal sits at about the same level as yours. The intermediate shaft in the gearbox is still spinning when you throw it in gear, so it gives the wheels a little bump. That's why it doesn't happen the second time, because you've already brought the intermediate shaft to a stop.

[unsurety]

Originally Posted by codesplice

It's probably going to be different on different vehicles. The general recommendation is for slightly above the brake pedal, but I'd suggest doing some of the engagement tests that have been mentioned in the thread to make sure it's not too low. FWIW, I adjusted mine only about 1-1/2 turns of the clevis and everything is peachy.

Originally Posted by chas3wba0

Don't worry about it, my car does that occasionally too and my clutch pedal sits at about the same level as yours. The intermediate shaft in the gearbox is still spinning when you throw it in gear, so it gives the wheels a little bump. That's why it doesn't happen the second time, because you've already brought the intermediate shaft to a stop.

These worked perfectly for me, and thanks.

I adjusted the clevis 2 turns and it was too low. Back to 1.5 turns just like some of you guys and it was perfect!

[Zeus]

Alright so I'm set a hair above the brake pedal, and I did the clunk test and it seemed alright

Warm transmission -> Stop and depress clutch -> Shift into First -> Neutral (keep clutch depressed) -> And first again (no clunk this time)

What about this check for when your foot is off the clutch? I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

Originally Posted by Ozzman

You can verify freeplay at the top of the stroke is correct, by a simple function check.

Open the hood and look at the clutch master cylinder reservoir while pulling the clutch throwout lever towards the clutch slave cylinder. If you can not get any travel out of the throw out lever and the fluid level doesn't rise in the reservoir, then the clutch pedal is adjusted too tight. And you have to back off the clutch pedal/cruise control switch a bit. If you drive around in this condition for very long the clutch will start slipping even with your foot off of the clutch pedal and the you will wear out the clutch in short order.

If you can depress the throwout lever toward the slave cylinder a significant amount and the fluid level rises in the reservoir while pulling/depressing the throwout lever than the freeplay adjustment is good to go.

There is a bleed/transfer port between the reservoir and the master cylinder, this port is only open when piston in the master cylinder is topped out aka clutch pedal released. This port must be open in this position to allow for expansion of fluid when the clutch is not being depressed. Once enough pedal travel has been utilized to push the piston passed this port the hydraulic clutch circuit becomes pressurized.

ALSO, was the stock height for the clutch set where you could push the clevis pin in and out without depressing the pedal by hand? I.E. the clutch pedal is fully extended by spring force on it's own and the cleavis is lined up where you can just slip the pin in without touching the clutch. I seriously can't remember...