SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by AustinTX

245/45/17 will be quite a bit taller than stock. I would not attempt.

I agree.

I have a set of 235/45R17 ZII's and I think I may already be beyond the bounds of competitiveness based on reduced acceleration. We have some big courses in the area, so maybe it'll offset some.

I now have a set of 235/40R17 R1Rs that will get tested back to back with the 235/45R17 ZIIs on April 19th at a test and tune, so we'll see.

I'm just trying to decide which set I want to try out in Wilmington the week prior at the Match Tour. The ZIIs I'm good to go now, the R1Rs I need to have mounted.

[itzmik3]

Originally Posted by Sccabrz192

I agree.

I have a set of 235/45R17 ZII's and I think I may already be beyond the bounds of competitiveness based on reduced acceleration. We have some big courses in the area, so maybe it'll offset some.

I now have a set of 235/40R17 R1Rs that will get tested back to back with the 235/45R17 ZIIs on April 19th at a test and tune, so we'll see.

I'm just trying to decide which set I want to try out in Wilmington the week prior at the Match Tour. The ZIIs I'm good to go now, the R1Rs I need to have mounted.

quick question. 235 r1r on a c street car?
just from previous experience be ready for an "interesting" ride. we ran 225 r1r in the past and with the lack of camber and inability to stretch the tire we were only able to get 50-60 runs out of them.

[7thgear]

speaking of longevity, will the Yoko at either 235 or 245 on a 7" hold up to about 120 runs plus 10k road driving?

[itzmik3]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

speaking of longevity, will the Yoko at either 235 or 245 on a 7" hold up to about 120 runs plus 10k road driving?

that i do not know.
the yoks don't see any street miles and we are only 29 runs in

one thing i can say is that even with the tires hot to the touch it actually became more grippy

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by itzmik3

quick question. 235 r1r on a c street car?
just from previous experience be ready for an "interesting" ride. we ran 225 r1r in the past and with the lack of camber and inability to stretch the tire we were only able to get 50-60 runs out of them.

Longevity wasn't a concern, no point having them around for next year since they will be illegal anyway. The whole street tire landscape will be very different next year, so might as well go for broke see what happens, and worry about next year in 12 months.

Haha, I'm interested in your definition of "interesting"

[DylanFRS]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

i did the math on the ZII's from tirerack, i'm not winning after conversion, shipping, customs and taxes . Well, maybe a little bit, but not enough for a swaybar. Also in this particular case i really do want to support local.

Ouch, didn't think about customs and the conversion. FWIW, supporting locally, any of the Star Specs, ZIIs, or Rivals you buy go through Tirerack no matter where you buy them. So either you buy them directly through Tirerack or your local shop buys them from Tirerack and then marks them up a bit to cover their own costs.

[jpjamiso]

Hands down best thread on the forum, you guys are so helpful.

I started last year and am hopelessly hooked. Still need to finish the installs, but by the first local event I will be running rpf1, rivals, ferodo pads, camber bolts. My question is what to say when I get an alignment after installing the camber bolts? Should I start with zero toe? Any suggestions on where to go?

[FastWhite]

For me, this is my daily driver. So I kept it at 0 toe for wear. Some hear run some toe out in front and toe in at the rear. They can chime in on the numbers and wear on the tires.


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[G_Ride]

@jpjamiso, I also daily drive my BRZ and my region doesn't have access to very wide open locations (i.e., we tend to have tighter courses), my co-driver and I are trying a total of 1/8" toe out in the front and 0 toe in the rear. I haven't noticed extra wear from that front toe.

[Kido1986]

Originally Posted by jpjamiso

Hands down best thread on the forum, you guys are so helpful.

I started last year and am hopelessly hooked. Still need to finish the installs, but by the first local event I will be running rpf1, rivals, ferodo pads, camber bolts. My question is what to say when I get an alignment after installing the camber bolts? Should I start with zero toe? Any suggestions on where to go?

If youre still new to the sport, front toe is best kept to a minimum. I would suggest at least .1-.15 degrees toe in for each rear wheel though. No noticeable wear for me.

[7thgear]

for the guys running ferrodo's

front only or rears as well?

[Kido1986]

Started with just front, worked well for stopping. Once I did rear though, I found the on-brake-rotation I was missing (due to heavier front brake balance with the gripper front pads)

[7thgear]

how does C-Street handle bumpstop modification. I've re-read the paragraph 50 times last night and it seems that so long as the distance between the shock body and the engagement is not shortened (ie, faster engagmenet) then you get carte-blanche on the rest?

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

how does C-Street handle bumpstop modification. I've re-read the paragraph 50 times last night and it seems that so long as the distance between the shock body and the engagement is not shortened (ie, faster engagmenet) then you get carte-blanche on the rest?

As I understand it you can use any bumpstop as long as it is not longer than the stock one. Being that the stock bumpstops are somewhat close to being engaged at stock ride height, I think there is a lot of tuning potential here, especially considering shocks that generate a lot of rebound are an option.

Bumpstop tuning is a common thing for Miatas, and I've heard for Minis as well.