Full Blown Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by FullBlown

Loook... TQ reading

I know, dat 272 ft-lbs is what reminded me of my car:

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Reaper

I'm sold on the gtx28 with stock compression. I specifically chose it over the 30 and made some serious tq as well. Much more than a gtx30 tuned by the same tuner.

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Get a new tuner

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Get a new tuner

this

[Reaper]

Yeah that wasnt a truely fair statement on my part. There where many more variables than just the turbo.

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[BRZPDX]

This may be off topic, but I have a custom turbo kit, very similar to the FB piping (front top mount turbo, IC piping, hot pipe very close to fans etc.). I read some posts about fans melting, and that the slim fan/rad upgrade is almost a must with this sort of piping.

I wrapped my hot pipes with some titanium wrap, and after about 10 dyno pulls during the tuning, it was cool enough to the touch that I can grab the pipe no problem. I'm assuming many of you have your pipes wrapped for heat issues, but if I can touch the pipe after 10 back to back dyno pulls, how is it that the FB kit pipes are so much hotter? Ofcourse the hot side turbo housing is super hot, but that is a little farther away from the plastic housing of the fan.

I'm still planning on upgrading the fans/shroud/radiator but was curious how many of you are having issues with over heating, other than track abuse.

Thank you, and I would of chosen the FB kit if my local company didn't give me such a good deal!

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by BRZPDX

This may be off topic, but I have a custom turbo kit, very similar to the FB piping (front top mount turbo, IC piping, hot pipe very close to fans etc.). I read some posts about fans melting, and that the slim fan/rad upgrade is almost a must with this sort of piping.

I wrapped my hot pipes with some titanium wrap, and after about 10 dyno pulls during the tuning, it was cool enough to the touch that I can grab the pipe no problem. I'm assuming many of you have your pipes wrapped for heat issues, but if I can touch the pipe after 10 back to back dyno pulls, how is it that the FB kit pipes are so much hotter? Ofcourse the hot side turbo housing is super hot, but that is a little farther away from the plastic housing of the fan.

I'm still planning on upgrading the fans/shroud/radiator but was curious how many of you are having issues with over heating, other than track abuse.

Thank you, and I would of chosen the FB kit if my local company didn't give me such a good deal!

Not everyone has had fan melting issues. I had my downpipe coated by LJ and wrapped it with the black header wrap LJ included with my kit, and after 15,000 miles of boost my fans never melted or failed.

[Dipstik-sportech]

Was your hood open or closed during the pulls? How hot was it at the time?

The Frozen North

[Reaper]

I had the similar results coated and wrapped with dei titanium.

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[BRZPDX]

Hood was open and it was cool during the winter, but we had guys checking the heat right after pull after pull to see what kind of heat was generated and where. We can touch the pipe right after the pull, unless heat dissipates that fast.

i live in the PNW so it never gets scorching hot/humid like other states, which might help with this issue as well.. There are people not even running a oil cooler with FI, and seems to be ok, and others are having major heat issues. It can be quite confusing when I read through different problems with similar set-ups.

[OjiGeorge]

Originally Posted by OjiGeorge

Have been driving the new Full Blown SD base map for a few days now and the car drives smooth as butter. I'm amazed as I haven't been in any NA to Turbo cars that drive so well! Question I had for you guys, When I'm full throttle 4K+ what would you consider a good window for AFR? What would be considered too lean and what too rich?

No one dialed in knows their AFR's?

I'm just installing ECUtek on my new laptop so I can send LJ a log of the base SD tune. As I menioned before the tune runs very smooth, however when doing a pull the AFR is so rich that it's way way off the scales of what the factory baby wideband can read. I knows it's running this rich based on the info from my AEM A/F wideband gauge.

I'd log from the AEM failafe, but still need to find that pesky RPM wire. For some reason my Canadian FR-S doesnt seem to have the RPM signal wire that is shown in the thread about tapping into the RPM wire :/ Maybe it's an American 86 or a BRZ thing?

[Deadspool]

How rich is your aem reading?

[whitefrs]

Originally Posted by OjiGeorge

No one dialed in knows their AFR's?

I'm just installing ECUtek on my new laptop so I can send LJ a log of the base SD tune. As I menioned before the tune runs very smooth, however when doing a pull the AFR is so rich that it's way way off the scales of what the factory baby wideband can read. I knows it's running this rich based on the info from my AEM A/F wideband gauge.

I'd log from the AEM failafe, but still need to find that pesky RPM wire. For some reason my Canadian FR-S doesnt seem to have the RPM signal wire that is shown in the thread about tapping into the RPM wire :/ Maybe it's an American 86 or a BRZ thing?

U sure u have the aem failsafe set up to read AFR?




I love boost!!!!!!

[OjiGeorge]

Had a shop install it, so I'm pretty sure, yes. The gauge is also reading like any other wideband I've seen, and the readings change as I'd expect them to via throttle load.

It idles around 14.5, cruises at 12-13 and when really on the gas it's rock solid at 9.5

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Originally Posted by OjiGeorge

Had a shop install it, so I'm pretty sure, yes. Is reading like any other wideband I've seen, and the readings change as I'd expect them to via throttle load.

It Idles around 14.5 cruise 12-13 and when really on the gas it's rock solid at 9.5

Wtf 9.5 ?


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