Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[fenton]

Originally Posted by stevo585

To change topic:

Why can't we make this a 36V system? I know the electrics are limiting this but I wonder if the motor can take it?

Or run high amp hour batteries so they can supply more amps @ 24V?

Just wondering why it is capped to 24V and 18AH batteries.

Yes we have a dual dump pack which up the total capacity at 24V.

Rob has made 36V systems, right now the sweet spot for gains is the 24v system.

The reason for the caps is to keep the price down. If Rob was to up to 36V and higher AH batteries the whole cost of the system starts getting close to full time FI.

Rob likes the price point he is at now at approx 50% of the cheapest full time FI build before installation and tuning.

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

The dual pack setup answers your question about amperage. It can be done and is being done currently.

As for the higher voltage, Im assuming there is a reason that @Robbfts can answer.

UL 508A Section 43 Low-Voltage Limited Energy Circuits

specifically 43.1.2

Buzzzzzzzt

[SloS14]

Originally Posted by Robftss

UL 508A Section 43 Low-Voltage Limited Energy Circuits

specifically 43.1.2

Buzzzzzzzt

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by SloS14

How how I wish I could post that in my classroom....

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

If I had to guess, its compatibility with the car. Besides, if you up voltage, you decrease available current, unless I'm mistaken.

You are not mistaken. There is a finite amount of electrical power (watts) that you can take from the car's electrical system to recharge the batteries without major mods to the electrical system (read upgraded alternator).
Wattage is current times voltage. You can't increase the watts, so if you increase current or voltage, the other must be reduced to keep the watts the same.
Simple example:
12.5V x 80A = 1000W or
25V x 40A = 1000W or
50V x 20A = 1000W.

[Target70]

PIE

power(watts) = I(current) X E(voltage)

oh, and don't ask me why I stands for current and E stands for voltage, It's been over 10 years since tech school. I think my teacher said C and V were already used.

[dnavas]

E = Electromotive force
I = Intensity

[R2]

Originally Posted by Mars2

what speed where you cruizing? 180 km/h is 110 Mph or around 5000 rpm in six gear
at that speed on light throttle engine is on vaccum

You are looking at around 0.7g/rev of engine load at that speed in sixth gear.

Now, we need someone with an ESC and something to monitor engine load via MAF readings to do this experiment. You need to drive in any gear at 5000rpm, then use the brakes and throttle, modulating both until you you see ~0.7g/rev load at a constant speed. If the ESC drag reduction is activating then you have your answer.

[F1fletch]

Guys, I have been following this thread eagerly and the more I learn the more I gain interest in purchasing. I have a few questions and thought it would be best posted here.

The 250 seems the best route to decent power and clean install, but what does the dual dump setup look like and does it require battery re-location?

Have different impeller, turbine wheels been tried and or with special coatings for compressor/turbine for thermal efficiency?

What about ceramic bearings in the motor or compressor?

Is battery re-location to trunk only for dual dump applications, can someone explain the benefits of this?

I am a total F1 geek and have been involved in many hobbies/builds involving hi tech so this is truly intriguing and this thread has been well contributed by Fenton, Gary in NJ, Shiv (who's shop is not far from me) and others. Thank you all!!

[Target70]

Here is shiv's post of his dual dump setup / and yes it requires the starter battery relocation: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=3695

I don't know about the wheels or coatings, but with the low temporary boost, I think temperatures remain close to ambient, but I am just guessing.

I believe I was told the compresser uses sealed ceremic bearings.

Yes, with a single dump pack the smaller starter battery fits in the tray beside the dump pack. You can see a picture of this in the first post: http://s1277.photobucket.com/user/fe...76175.jpg.html

Also from the first post is this part which is under the Dyno Session Update: "We did another pull after this with a extra little battery pack that Rob rigged up and made ALMOST 210hp but we arent posting that dyno as that will probably be considered a power adder or something like that."

That extra battery pack, has turned into a second dump pack. I am waiting on shiv's next dyno post with his dual setup to see what type of performance boost the dual setup will provide, But from my understanding, it gives faster spool up, longer sustained boost, and higher peak power.

[Thatruth2001]

Anyone with the ESC installed have plans to test the Crawford Billet Power Blocks? On the fence with my order, but wanted to inquire if anyone plans to be the initial test subject....

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by Thatruth2001

Anyone with the ESC installed have plans to test the Crawford Billet Power Blocks? On the fence with my order, but wanted to inquire if anyone plans to be the initial test subject....

You probably want to check out the thread for the blocks.
Shiv has a set.

[Thatruth2001]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

You probably want to check out the thread for the blocks.
Shiv has a set.

I know, but does he intend to test with the ESC or NA.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by Thatruth2001

Anyone with the ESC installed have plans to test the Crawford Billet Power Blocks? On the fence with my order, but wanted to inquire if anyone plans to be the initial test subject....

I think we might need to modify the intake hose connecting the compressor to the throttle body as the power blocks raise it. Am I right?